Fuel in the air cleaner assembly

[Stryker]

Howdy, I just picked up a 2001 GZ250, seems to run fairly decently but there is a lot of fuel in the air cleaner assembly ans when you let off the throttle, the bike revs down and dies.

Could this be a float issue or do I need to replace the carb?

Thanks
Rich

[blaine]

Welcome.It sounds like a float issue.The carb is a common problem on these bikes.A good cleaning & regular use of Berrymans b-12 or SeaFoam will cure your problem.
:) :cool:

[Stryker]

Im starting to get that feelin, looking at the other thread - viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5428 (http://www.gz250bike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5428)

I need to pull the lawn tools out and get the GZ into that back bay where it will call home soon. Looks like the carb is first on the hit list.

Is there a carb rebuild kit out there thats better than the rest?

Rich

[blaine]

Never had to use a kit.I just gave everything a good cleaning & used SeaFoam once a month for the 3 years I had my G.Z. It had 46000 on the clock when I sold it and ran perfectly.
:) :2tup:

[Stryker]

Ok, thanks. I would assume gaskets needed replaced, but I havent dont much with carbs before.

A buddy of mine has a '70s BMW that has foam floats and he is regularly complaining about replacing them every few years.

[Water Warrior 2]

You will find a drain tube from the air box assembly that hangs down to the bottom of the frame. It has a plug in it. Remove the plug and drain whatever is there. Replace the plug as it is a sealing part for the entire air system.

[Stryker]

Yea, I found that after wasting a dozen paper towels and getting gas all over my hands and hoodie. Headed out to the garage now and see if it leaked more over night.

[OldNTired]

Yea, I found that after wasting a dozen paper towels and getting gas all over my hands and hoodie. Headed out to the garage now and see if it leaked more over night.

Just a wild guess on my part, but do you by any chance have the fuel petcock in the PRI position? But I am confused: with all that extra fuel how does it start?

[Stryker]

Its starts, but runs poorly. Yes, I believe it is in the PRI position. I was JUST now reading about that and boy did I have a misundestanding of what they meant.

ON - In the 'on' position, manifold vacuum is used to open the valve (fuel will not flow with the engine off)

PRI - Pri means "PRIME". Fuel will flow whether the engine is running or not

RES - Reserve

I will move that sucker to ON as soon as I get home! I bought it with it in that position. Vacume line was unplugged from the back of it and pri was the only way they could get fuel.

The floor under the bike was dry this morning, Im betting the gas in the air cleaner happened when it was transported and the bike was moving around.

[blaine]

Yep.Sounds about right. :) :2tup:

[mrlmd1]

If it runs out of the carb that means the needle valve in the float bowl is not closing properly. Run some Berryman's or Seafoam through it periodically to keep that and the jets clean. And only use prime if the bike has been sitting for weeks and weeks, and then only for maybe 10 seconds to allow the bowl to fill up again if it was empty.

[Road_Clam]

Ok, thanks. I would assume gaskets needed replaced, but I havent dont much with carbs before.

A buddy of mine has a '70s BMW that has foam floats and he is regularly complaining about replacing them every few years.

The carb uses an oring that seals the bowl so there is no need to replace. Just smear a bit of grease on the oring. Sounds to me like your inlet needle has some debris on the tip and is sticking open. This will cause fuel to dribble out the overflow ven passage and into the airbox. The new Ethanol in our fuel is developing a BAD reputation for clogging carbs over extended periods of non use. Add some Ethanol specific fuel treatment from now on and you won't have any more issues.

[OldNTired]

Ok, thanks. I would assume gaskets needed replaced, but I havent dont much with carbs before.

A buddy of mine has a '70s BMW that has foam floats and he is regularly complaining about replacing them every few years.

The carb uses an oring that seals the bowl so there is no need to replace. Just smear a bit of grease on the oring. Sounds to me like your inlet needle has some debris on the tip and is sticking open. This will cause fuel to dribble out the overflow ven passage and into the airbox. The new Ethanol in our fuel is developing a BAD reputation for clogging carbs over extended periods of non use. Add some Ethanol specific fuel treatment from now on and you won't have any more issues.


I started using StaBil in the gas for all of my small engines when I found out that this 'junk' gas (ethanol-loaded) had ruined the gas line and carb gaskets. Since then, I haven't had a problem with it in the tractor, my bike, or any other small engine.

[Road_Clam]

Ok, thanks. I would assume gaskets needed replaced, but I havent dont much with carbs before.

A buddy of mine has a '70s BMW that has foam floats and he is regularly complaining about replacing them every few years.

The carb uses an oring that seals the bowl so there is no need to replace. Just smear a bit of grease on the oring. Sounds to me like your inlet needle has some debris on the tip and is sticking open. This will cause fuel to dribble out the overflow ven passage and into the airbox. The new Ethanol in our fuel is developing a BAD reputation for clogging carbs over extended periods of non use. Add some Ethanol specific fuel treatment from now on and you won't have any more issues.


I started using StaBil in the gas for all of my small engines when I found out that this 'junk' gas (ethanol-loaded) had ruined the gas line and carb gaskets. Since then, I haven't had a problem with it in the tractor, my bike, or any other small engine.

Make sure you use the Ethanol specific Stabil (I think it's the green color) or Stabil marine (black). And yes, Ethanol is now being determined to attack certain types of older "non-Ethanol" compliant rubbers.