2 problems dont know if its normal

[jack-_-hammer]

On my old 600gsxr On a cold night or a summer day it would start right away, So just out of curiosity Is it normal for my Gz250 on a cold morning to take a while to start i usually have to put the choke which i know that's normal but i have to press the power button 5-7 times is that normal? Another thing is when i'm riding once the bike is warm. Is it normal for the bike to lose power while i'm on high revs? it usually does it 1st gear 2nd gear and sometimes 3rd gear once i get to 4th and 5th i dont really notice it. Just curious Previous owner had the bike sitting for 3 months. I once left my gsxr sit for 6 months and when i started the bike i didnt notice anything different. My friend advised me to use some carb cleaner i'm probably going to do that tomorrow.

[alantf]

Yup...........Carb cleaner is your best bet. For some reason, Suzuki put the crappest of crap carbs on the Gz. Once you get it running properly, you'll find that you'll need to add carb cleaner to the tank every few fill ups, to keep the carb at peak performance. :2tup:

[jonathan180iq]

I concur.

Just add carb cleaner and see where that leaves you. It's a common issue. Small passages and just a little bit of varnish or other gas tank trash can lead to some head-banging issues.

If the cold starting problem persists or gets worse, then you need to look into a valve adjustment.

[Road_Clam]

For some reason, Suzuki put the crappest of crap carbs on the Gz.

There's nothing wrong with Mikuni BS carbs, they are an excellent performing carb. The reason GZ's run so lousy, is not the carb, but the carb's EPA compliant lean jetting.

[Road_Clam]

On my old 600gsxr On a cold night or a summer day it would start right away, So just out of curiosity Is it normal for my Gz250 on a cold morning to take a while to start i usually have to put the choke which i know that's normal but i have to press the power button 5-7 times is that normal? Another thing is when i'm riding once the bike is warm. Is it normal for the bike to lose power while i'm on high revs? it usually does it 1st gear 2nd gear and sometimes 3rd gear once i get to 4th and 5th i dont really notice it. Just curious Previous owner had the bike sitting for 3 months. I once left my gsxr sit for 6 months and when i started the bike i didnt notice anything different. My friend advised me to use some carb cleaner i'm probably going to do that tomorrow.

Sounds like you are experiencing upper rpm lean out. Also sound like there is some blockage in the main needle jet. There is also a "questionable" vacume line connection that recieves vacume from the carb to the fuel petcock tap. If this connection at the fuel tap is "loose" the diaphram inside the fuel valve will not remain fully open and also cause upper rpm fuel starvation.

[alantf]

The reason GZ's run so lousy, is not the carb, but the carb's EPA compliant lean jetting.

Gotta disagree :) My European bike doesn't have the lean jetting, but I had all the problems associated with the carb, when I first got the bike (NEW!!!). A few doses of fuel additive later (I can't get carb cleaner, over here) & it ran like a different bike. Never ever had these carb problems on my other bikes, with different carbs. Don't even know what make the other carbs were, because I never had to touch them.

[jack-_-hammer]

Is there a specific carb cleaner you guys recommend. I may have to take her to the shop.

[blaine]

Is there a specific carb cleaner you guys recommend. I may have to take her to the shop.
Two of the best are,Berrymans b12 and SeaFoam. :) :cool:

[jonathan180iq]

Berryman's is 1/3 the price of SeaFoam unless they are running a special and you can get SeaFoam 2 for 1 sometimes.

[Rionna]

How do you use the SeaFoam and should you use it even if you're not having any problems for preventative maintenance?

[blaine]

How do you use the SeaFoam and should you use it even if you're not having any problems for preventative maintenance?
I use 1 oz per gallon,once a month. :) :cool:

[mrlmd1]

Either one - one oz/gal of fuel, dumped into the tank. For preventative maintenance, maybe once every 3-4 fillups.

[jonathan180iq]

I use Marvel Mystery Oil fairly consistently, just because the bottle looks more old school and I like nostalgia.

http://cdn2.iofferphoto.com/img/item/199/909/948/YSjg.jpg

[jack-_-hammer]

The bottles come in 16 OZ cans how do you tell your putting 1 oz? do you just guess or use something to measure then pour in?

[jonathan180iq]

Just get a measuring cup of some sort from the dollar store. I'm not all that scientific with it. I just pour in what I assume to be about a shot glass worth and let it ride. With the Marvel stuff, there are little OZ markers on the side as you pour, similar to a quart marker on an oil bottle.

[alantf]

I use Marvel Mystery Oil fairly consistently, just because the bottle looks more old school and I like nostalgia.

http://cdn2.iofferphoto.com/img/item/199/909/948/YSjg.jpg

I notice that it says "top cylinder" lubricant. I remember, back in the days of leaded petrol, on the petrol station forecourts in England, they had pump cans, rather like oversize pump oil cans, of "upper cylinder lubricant". We used to put in one shot per gallon. Don't know what was in it, but they reckoned that you were putting back the good things that refining took out. That was in the days when the lead used to lubricate the valves etc (the old side valve engines) Don't know if it did any good, but it certainly did no harm :)

[jonathan180iq]

Honestly, I just like it cause it smells like oil and a cherry mint. :)

[Road_Clam]

I use Marvel Mystery Oil fairly consistently, just because the bottle looks more old school and I like nostalgia.

http://cdn2.iofferphoto.com/img/item/199/909/948/YSjg.jpg

I notice that it says "top cylinder" lubricant. I remember, back in the days of leaded petrol, on the petrol station forecourts in England, they had pump cans, rather like oversize pump oil cans, of "upper cylinder lubricant". We used to put in one shot per gallon. Don't know what was in it, but they reckoned that you were putting back the good things that refining took out. That was in the days when the lead used to lubricate the valves etc (the old side valve engines) Don't know if it did any good, but it certainly did no harm :)

Mystery Oil was a common additive in the early 70's after the ban on lead additives in fuel. Lead was the primary lubricant for the valve stems, and the valve seats. I used to race motocross in the 80's so I used to add some 2 stroke premix oil in my older cars' fuel for valve lubrication. Many guys with vintage muscle cars will add Mystery Oil in the fuel and drive the car prior to dormant winter storage to keep the cyl and rings from developing rust.

[b1pig]

i agree with the leaning out at higher rpm. my wife's GZ was lean across the rpm range. adjusting the carb as per the writeup on this forum GREATLY improved rideability and power. fuel economy suffered, obviously, but you gotta give something up, i guess. my wife's bike also sat up and the carb gunked up, requiring a removal and thorough cleaning. i just pulled the jets out and sprayed alot of carb cleaner through it. i think i might have run pipe cleaners through some of larger ports as well. put it back together and the thing ran perfectly.

make sure the clamp on the carb throat is snug, too.

one way to check the vacuum port on the petcock, remove it from the back/center of the petcock and plug it. put the petcock in "prime" and you can take it for a quick ride. if the lean-out problem is gone, then the diaphram may be leaking.... check the vacuum line for dry-rot or cracks also.

also, another thought.
if the bike was sold in a lower altitude and you purchased it and live at a higher altitude, this can certainly affect the performance. if i remember correctly, there are jet sets intended for low or high altitude bikes. not sure if this was USA only.