New Engine...What if.

[Old School]

What if I need a new or rebuilt engine, where would I find one and what can I expect to pay? Unless there is something to flush out metal shavings out of the thing?

[Water Warrior 2]

ebay or Craigs list for a used engine in good shape. Do you think you have metal shavings in the cases?? Are you just curious ?? There is a plate on the bottom of the engine that the drain plug screws into. 3 bolts and off it will come. Do an inspection with a small mirror ?? Oh, just had a thought. I think the oil drain plug is magnetic. That would tell you real quick.

[blaine]

ebay or Craigs list for a used engine in good shape. Do you think you have metal shavings in the cases?? Are you just curious ?? There is a plate on the bottom of the engine that the drain plug screws into. 3 bolts and off it will come. Do an inspection with a small mirror ?? Oh, just had a thought. I think the oil drain plug is magnetic. That would tell you real quick.

Re:Stalling issues.
Quote:Today I replaced the plug, had to re-tap for it:

Just to bring everyone up to speed ,I gave him a worse case senareo on his problem.In his original post,he stated that he had cross threaded the plug & had to retap the threads.Now his problem is a grinding noise that gets worse as the bike gets warm until it stalls.He leaves it for 20 mins,and she starts again.He has already drained the oil & no sign of any metal shavings.
:) :cool:

[Old School]

Thanks Blaine,
Drained the oil, no signs of metal. I'm at a loss right now. I know when I pulled the tap out it was covered in shavings, so it is ver possible that I lost a few.

[blaine]

Thanks Blaine,
Drained the oil, no signs of metal. I'm at a loss right now. I know when I pulled the tap out it was covered in shavings, so it is ver possible that I lost a few.
I'm thinking that there are metal shavings between the rings & cylinder wall that haven't made their way down into the oil yet.What do you guys think?
:) :cool:

[Old School]

Okay Blaine, I can understand the possibility of that. What do I have to do to get them to move down. Is there some kind of flush or diss assembly required? I hope to have not damaged the engine to much yet. Like said, shavings would be a sure sign, but it has not ran much since the tap. Only probly 5-6 times, in intervals of 30 seconds all the way up to 3 minutes. Then I either kill it or it kills itself. I am so grateful to you guys who are willing to share your thoughts. Some of you have probly been doing this stuff since before I was born.

[blaine]

Okay Blaine, I can understand the possibility of that. What do I have to do to get them to move down. Is there some kind of flush or diss assembly required? I hope to have not damaged the engine to much yet. Like said, shavings would be a sure sign, but it has not ran much since the tap. Only probly 5-6 times, in intervals of 30 seconds all the way up to 3 minutes. Then I either kill it or it kills itself. I am so grateful to you guys who are willing to share your thoughts. Some of you have probly been doing this stuff since before I was born.
If you think the case,Than the head should be removed for inspection.If you catch it in time you may get away with a cylinder honing & new gaskets.Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
:cry:

[mrlmd1]

Is there any way to pull the plug out again and flush out the cylinder with oil and see what's in there or 'till it comes out clean, or will that get it into or through open valves and make a bigger mess?

[blaine]

Is there any way to pull the plug out again and flush out the cylinder with oil and see what's in there or 'till it comes out clean, or will that get it into or through open valves and make a bigger mess?
Bottom line is,you will never get all the shavings out without a tear down.Especially since the engine has been started and the shavings moved around.
:cry:

[Old School]

Who can I get to do a tear down?

[Old School]

I suppose the only place is a local bike shop....wonder what that might cost?

[Road_Clam]

I suppose the only place is a local bike shop....wonder what that might cost?

approx $80/hr. My advice seek a used engine as the cost of repairs will quickly exceed the value of the bike.

[alantf]

approx $80/hr.

Wow.......... over here it's the equivalent of $27.70 per hour.

[Water Warrior 2]

approx $80/hr.

Wow.......... over here it's the equivalent of $27.70 per hour.
$90 to $100 here at dealers.

[Water Warrior 2]

Shavings in the cylinder doesn't sound good. You might want to tear it down just to see how bad it really is. More than likely some material has found it's way between the piston and cylinder wall with scoring and some gouging as a result. A new piston, rings and luckily just honing might be cost effective if you can find some one in a smaller shop to do the job. Worst case scenario is a used engine. A complete rebuild is apparently not cost effective to my knowledge and I have never heard of Suzuki selling new engines.

[Old School]

Locally our shops get $65 an hour at $40 hours to take it down and put it back together. $2600...I have seen some pretty nice bikes in local shops for that kind of money, which I don't have.

[Water Warrior 2]

Locally our shops get $65 an hour at $40 hours to take it down and put it back together. $2600...I have seen some pretty nice bikes in local shops for that kind of money, which I don't have.
40 hours on a GZ would be entirely unrealistic in my opinion. If you can pull off the head yourself for a peek a boo it will help you decide. A used engine may be most cost effective. Haven't tried it but maybe there is a chance to sneek a peek into the spark plug hole. Any visible damage might help decide.

[mrlmd1]

If you or your mechanic can get access to a fiberoptic 'scope, you can get a good look into the cylinder and see if there's any damage in there.
I would guess a compression check wouldn't tell you much, if anything.

[Old School]

Results, Monday we are pulling the head off the bike. Having an insert put into the plug hole by a machine shop. I don't expect to hear air pushed out of the hole anymore. The origin of the problem is that the plug had been in since 2000 and when pulled out had aluminum threads in the plug. Bonded together as one. So I the novice re-tapped the hole but it was not going to be the same. The PSI of the engine was just too strong for the plug hold. I want it to be done right so I'm having it done in the shop at $80-100. If I were to have them take the head off and put it back on as well I would be looking at $500-600.

[mrlmd1]

Hopefully you'll get lucky and find no damage to the cylinder, rings, piston, and that your problem was loss of compression to a badly fitting spark plug. Then you can get back on the road quickly.
Was it running poorly before you decided to change the plug? What did the old plug look like? Not one of those if it ain't broke don't fix it things I hope, that's what gets people in trouble.

[Water Warrior 2]

Results, Monday we are pulling the head off the bike. Having an insert put into the plug hole by a machine shop. I don't expect to hear air pushed out of the hole anymore. The origin of the problem is that the plug had been in since 2000 and when pulled out had aluminum threads in the plug. Bonded together as one. So I the novice re-tapped the hole but it was not going to be the same. The PSI of the engine was just too strong for the plug hold. I want it to be done right so I'm having it done in the shop at $80-100. If I were to have them take the head off and put it back on as well I would be looking at $500-600.
Fingers crossed for a minimum of damage to the cylinder wall.

[Old School]

Highly unlikely from the few techs I talked to. They say most of the small shavings that may have been in there from the tap would have been blown out through the first few combustion's. We will be removing the head monday and inspecting it with our own eyes, which will tell us more than the initial scoping. I feel good about it tonight and will get some sleep knowing that I did not ruin a $1200 gift.

[Water Warrior 2]

Let's hope the techs are right. The aluminum thread material might be light enough to just blow out.

[Old School]

They say worse stuff than that can build up and blow out-like hardened carbon deposits.

[Old School]

Blaine your a good man but you scared the crap out of me!!!
I'll let you guys know whats up by the end of next week.

[Water Warrior 2]

Please take pics of the head removal and cylinder condition so we can all see.

[Old School]

Sure thing, I'll try. I'll have to figure how to get them on here.

[Water Warrior 2]

Some one smarter than me will be along shortly. I don't trust my own instructions so why should you.

[alantf]

Sure thing, I'll try.

I had that problem when I first joined :)

Go to :- post reply>browse>add the file> place in line. It really is as easy as that (even for an old guy like me) :2tup:

[Road_Clam]

Blaine your a good man but you scared the crap out of me!!!
I'll let you guys know whats up by the end of next week.

I make it a habit to use antiseize on all my bikes' spark plugs. When you get dissimilar metals, mositure, and constant heating an cooling you end up with seized sparkplugs. You are now all too familiar with the worst case scenario...

[Road_Clam]

Sure thing, I'll try. I'll have to figure how to get them on here.


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[blaine]

Blaine your a good man but you scared the crap out of me!!!
I'll let you guys know whats up by the end of next week.
In my defense,your statement that it was making a grinding noise made me think the worst.i hope you can get away with with just removing the head.Just a note:be careful of the exhaust bolts at the head.they have a habit of twisting off,or galling the threads.I had this happen on mine & replaced the bolts with studs loc-tited in place.Something that i feel should been done at the factory.
:cool: :)