Stalling Issues

[Old School]

Today I replaced the plug, had to re-tap for it. Changed the oil. Of course in all this to make things easier I took the tank off for the spark plug. I worked out the high idle issue so I thought. Now when I start it up it seems to idle at a more normal rpm, still a little higher but much better. The issue I am having now is that it runs good even under a revved condition it will stall shortly after starting it. I had it out the other day and did 90 mile on it with no problems. Now I do some routine maint and I get this. I have searched other stalling threads and the only thing I can figure is that I have a vacuum issue that is keeping it from getting consistent fuel???? In the process of all this I checked the air filter and it looks good. I also opened up the carb and it looks clean and the throttle area responds correctly and the plunger moves freely. I am at a loss. I put the new plug in gapped at factory. NGK. Oil level is measuring correctly. Thanks and I hope I can get some help with this. I am starting to wish I had done nothing but just ride it w/o maint.

[Old School]

After running a short while it will stall. Then as I try and start it again I here a slight sucking sound. Cannot figure out where it is coming from. After a bit of a wait, it will fire right up again. A side note that might be helpful to troubling all this. Thought the plunger would move freely, it did not respond to the lever on the handlebar. It all looked very clean and freely moved in the carb. It seems to me like after a moment it is losing air or fuel or being chocked out. I don't know what to do.

[Water Warrior 2]

Hmmm. A slight sucking sound could be attributed to a plugged vent in the gas cap. Rule that out first. Take another ride with the fuel cock in the Prime postion to rule out a vacuum leak to the fuel cock while in the ON position. You may have a bad vacuum line but I doubt it will make a sucking sound. Keep it simple cause it probably is.

Some one more experienced than I will answer your carb movement question. Some one did mention a while ago that a certain part only moves when the engine is running and causing a vacuum. Nutin more from this old guy but speculation.

[blaine]

Lets go one step at a time.Did you install the small vacuum line that goes to the petcock when you had the tank off ? T answer your other question,the choke plunger should move when you move the lever.
:) :cool:

[Old School]

what is the petcock? I thought I put everything back the way it was supposed to be. There is the larger bulkier hose that hangs out of the bottom of the bike. But there is also another long skinny hose that hangs out the bottom area of the bike as well.

[blaine]

what is the petcock? I thought I put everything back the way it was supposed to be. There is the larger bulkier hose that hangs out of the bottom of the bike. But there is also another long skinny hose that hangs out the bottom area of the bike as well.
The petcock is the fuel tap on the bottom of your tank.There should be to hoses attached to it.One bigger one for fuel & a smaller vacuum hose on the back side of it.If it is unhooked you should be able to hear the "sucking" noise.
:)

[Old School]

I have the tank off again and am double checking everything. The only hose I cannot figure out is the long hose out the bottome of the carb. I still hear a definate sucking noise after I try to restart after a stall. No way a line is plugged.

[Old School]

What about the airbox? After I pulled the filter out of it I have the opening facing down toward the rear tire, that is the way I thought it was when I took it out. It only made sense.

[PimpS]

Wish i could help, but can't. Wish you all the best with solution of your problem!

[Water Warrior 2]

what is the petcock? I thought I put everything back the way it was supposed to be. There is the larger bulkier hose that hangs out of the bottom of the bike. But there is also another long skinny hose that hangs out the bottom area of the bike as well.
One of those hoses will have a plug. It is an airbox drain tube and should be drained now and again in case the air box is contaminated with oil or fuel. The plug prevents the carb from sucking in unfiltered air. The other tube is probably a gas tank overflow tube but I could be wrong. Some one will surely correct me if needed.

[blaine]

What about the airbox? After I pulled the filter out of it I have the opening facing down toward the rear tire, that is the way I thought it was when I took it out. It only made sense.
That's fine.It would make no difference to the operation of the bike.If it is facing forward it can collect water & dirt.
:)

[blaine]

Here is a link to a "blow up" of the carb.This may help you.
http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26 ... CARBURETOR (http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/CARBURETOR/MakeID/2/Make/Suzuki/YearID/44/Year/2003/ModelID/6180/Model/GZ250/GroupID/250308/Group/CARBURETOR)

[PimpS]

Blaine, it is terrorising to me, to see those pictures and think that i would cope with that, but then again if you check it good you see you can't go wrong if you are paying attention and doing it slowly. Great to see all those enthusiasm to help! OldSchool i hope you'll get it right soon!

[blaine]

Blaine, it is terrorising to me, to see those pictures and think that i would cope with that, but then again if you check it good you see you can't go wrong if you are paying attention and doing it slowly. Great to see all those enthusiasm to help! OldSchool i hope you'll get it right soon!
They are really not as complicated as the blow up shows.If you are taking one apart for the first time,it helps to take it apart in a large bucket,so you don't loose any small parts.The bike I have now has duel carbs,twice the fun.
:) :lol:

[PimpS]

LOL, to me it would be Benny Hill show, i would be the short, bald guy who is nonstop tapped on his bald head by Benny... ;)

I'm thinking of opening thread named: These are my choices of drive, where everyone would post pics of their bikes, maybe even cars, cause i see many of you guys have a lot of beautiful, customized bikes. And even your past bikes would be nice to see... Are you ok with that?

[blaine]

Fine by me.
:) :cool:

[blaine]

O.k back on track,so we can try and help "old school"
:) :2tup:

[Road_Clam]

Today I replaced the plug, had to re-tap for it. Changed the oil. Of course in all this to make things easier I took the tank off for the spark plug. I worked out the high idle issue so I thought. Now when I start it up it seems to idle at a more normal rpm, still a little higher but much better. The issue I am having now is that it runs good even under a revved condition it will stall shortly after starting it. I had it out the other day and did 90 mile on it with no problems. Now I do some routine maint and I get this. I have searched other stalling threads and the only thing I can figure is that I have a vacuum issue that is keeping it from getting consistent fuel???? In the process of all this I checked the air filter and it looks good. I also opened up the carb and it looks clean and the throttle area responds correctly and the plunger moves freely. I am at a loss. I put the new plug in gapped at factory. NGK. Oil level is measuring correctly. Thanks and I hope I can get some help with this. I am starting to wish I had done nothing but just ride it w/o maint.

Sounds like you have some dirt/rust sediment that has made it's way from your tank to inside your carb. When you say "you worked the high idle issue" please explain in more detail. Did you have a high idle prior ? How exactly did you (or not) correct the hight idle ? Most newer mc owners when faced with intermittent running issues replace the spark plug, yet a bad spark plug is rarely the culprit. As for your carb hoses, the larger dia hose is the fuel feed coming from the tank it attatches to the carb nipple on the LH side of the carb body. There is a second hose in the shape of an "L' that has 2 different id diameters at each end. This hose is the vaccum feed for the fuel valve (petcock) . This hose goes from the RH side of the carb to the fuel valve. There is also a long thin hose that goes from the bottom of the carb to "nowhere" this is the bowl drain hose. Here's an excellent tip, in the future when dissasembling unfamiliar components, take several digital pics BEFORE you dissasemble. So at a later time when you are re-assembling the components and you can't remember which hose goes where etc.., you have a handy accurate pic to help you get things right. I've been wrenching for the past 30 years, and I still take pics ! :2tup:

[alantf]

And I've got an extra vacuum hose going to the petcock vacuum hose. It comes from the crankcase ventilator which is fitted to European models.

[blaine]

Quote:Today I replaced the plug, had to re-tap for it:

Just to bring everyone up to speed ,I gave him a worse case senareo on his problem.In his original post,he stated that he had cross threaded the plug & had to retap the threads.Now his problem is a grinding noise that gets worse as the bike gets warm until it stalls.He leaves it for 20 mins,and she starts again.He has already drained the oil & no sign of any metal shavings.
:) :cool:

[Road_Clam]

Quote:Today I replaced the plug, had to re-tap for it:

Just to bring everyone up to speed ,I gave him a worse case senareo on his problem.In his original post,he stated that he had cross threaded the plug & had to retap the threads.Now his problem is a grinding noise that gets worse as the bike gets warm until it stalls.He leaves it for 20 mins,and she starts again.He has already drained the oil & no sign of any metal shavings.
:) :cool:

I read the "cross thread" comment as well, I was curious by this as well. I wonder if the plug thread seal is now sloppy and bleeding off a portion of cylinder compression ?

[Old School]

Interesting option, I like it, I'll check it. Maybe a helicoil would fix this?

[Old School]

So would a heli-coil option, then what plug would go in it? YOu guys are giving me the good bad and ugly to think about. Thanks a bunch. I have a couple guys coming over to physically check it out later this week. It is so hard to wait. So keep the comments coming I am considering them all. Here is somthing I was told my my neighbor who is a diesel mech. He said all the shavings would not make it to the oil, they would get caught in the filter, and or blown out the exhaust....?

[blaine]

It's possible that your plug is loose causing loss of compression and a heli-coil would repair that.For your peace of mind you can take the oil filter out and check for shavings.If there is none there,than you may be in luck.
:cool: :)

[Road_Clam]

Interesting option, I like it, I'll check it. Maybe a helicoil would fix this?

You can specifically get "spark plug" heli coil repair kit. You just have to measure your plug I believe they are 12mm ?

[Old School]

Made some progress today. The specific twist on the plug is 12mm x1.25. Trouble is I am having trouble finding the heli coil repair kit for such a size. I don't really get the concept of it though. If I slide the coil over the plug then there is no way it seems like it would fit in the hole...I don't want to tap it bigger and run more risk of additional metal in engine. I found no shavings in filter. My neighbor who is a diesel mechanic said it was not likely that the small amount of shavings could have made it very far on a bike...considering the exhaust blows right out of the head. He determined that the sucking was coming from the plug whole. So throw me some insights on what I just said if you would.
Thanks Blaine for preparing me for the worst. I always prepare for the worst and hope for the best.

[blaine]

For the Heli-coil to work the hole must be made bigger for the heli-coil to thread in.The inside of the coil is the size of the original.I have no experience with Heli-coils,but any research I have done,recommends that a machine shop with experience in Heli-coils do the install,as they are tricky to do properly.Especially when its a head.
:) :cool:

[DBG]

I used a helicoil on my fiance's mazda. I just moved real slow, and followed the directions to a T, and everything came out just fine. There are also videos on the internet to help (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFYa6sjhh_E) I did this with the head still in place. There were a lot more metal shavings than you would expect. In fact, I got everything back together, started the car, and there was this HORRIBLE tapping noise, and I felt sick at the thought that the piston might be banging against the spark plug ( I thought that I had gone in too far with the HeliCoil). I gave up and had it towed to the shop. Turns out I just had not got all the shavings out of the cylinder, and they were blocking the exhaust ports or something. They rigged up a small hose onto their shop vac and sucked all the shavings out. Easiest money they made that day I bet. After that the car ran great, the helicoil never gave us any trouble.

I might suggest removing the head to do this, just to prevent shavings from getting into the cylinder, but it can be done with the head on. Just make sure you are thorough in getting the shavings out. There will probably be way too much to just blow out the exhaust.