View Full Version : Transmission/Clutch Expert needed!
ValleySquid
02-25-2012, 01:51 AM
Guys, hello my name is Jesse (not that it matters) and I recently bought a 2006 GZ250.
with 3k miles.
:roll:
Everything is relatively "OK" with the bike but there's something that has been bugging me lately..
Shifting from 1st to 2nd is kind of hard, not always but there has been several times when shifting is hard..er than usual. NOW I've read that this issue points to bent fork? or something tranny or clutch related. :shocked:
Do you guys have any idea at all what would this cost to fix?
At this point, Im even considering buying the parts and doing it myself? Is that even possible?
This is my first bike ever... I'm terrified that the parts are going to come out more expensive than the bike itself, since I'm a starving student. lol :lol:
ANY help at all that could point me to the right direction is greatly appreciate it.... since as of now I don't really have a plan. :cry:
blaine
02-25-2012, 02:51 AM
Welcome.With only 3k on her,I doubt that you have any transmission problems.These bikes can be a little sticky between 1st and 2nd. I would first check your clutch free play.You should have about 9/16" out at the end of the clutch lever.Next check your oil.if the bike is due for a oil change,now is the time to do it.Dirty oil can cause hard shifting.
:) :2tup:
Water Warrior 2
02-25-2012, 02:59 AM
Welcome and stop looking for really bad stuff to fix. I would suggest some basic maintenance first. Have you changed the oil and oil filter ? Do you know if it was ever changed since new ? That should be your first step in trouble shooting a shifting problem. Oil breaks down and affects the clutch and transmission function. A little TLC should have the bike running much better in jig time.
Did you get an owners manual with the bike ? We have one online here for your convenience and initial knowledge.
Road_Clam
02-25-2012, 06:21 AM
Guys, hello my name is Jesse (not that it matters) and I recently bought a 2006 GZ250.
with 3k miles.
:roll:
Everything is relatively "OK" with the bike but there's something that has been bugging me lately..
Shifting from 1st to 2nd is kind of hard, not always but there has been several times when shifting is hard..er than usual. NOW I've read that this issue points to bent fork? or something tranny or clutch related. :shocked:
Do you guys have any idea at all what would this cost to fix?
At this point, Im even considering buying the parts and doing it myself? Is that even possible?
This is my first bike ever... I'm terrified that the parts are going to come out more expensive than the bike itself, since I'm a starving student. lol :lol:
ANY help at all that could point me to the right direction is greatly appreciate it.... since as of now I don't really have a plan. :cry:
Welcome to the forum. As for your issue, we need more details. Remember we can only read what your issue is, it's very difficult to give suggestions when your bike can't be actually ridden or listened to by an experienced ear. If you did in fact have a bent shift fork your transmission would "jump" out of gear under acceleration. Like others commented, I doubt you have an internal issue. All bikes when new will shift hard, and "notchy" feeling it's normal. Your GZ does not have many miles yet. As miles get added, internal mating components "break in" to each other and operate more smoothly. I am thinking your shift drum and shift fork pins for the 1-2 shift still need further break-in . Make sure you have the clutch adjusted to spec (I generally like about 3/16" gap) , I would suggest a thinner viscosity oil in the colder weather (10W-30) and just give a brisk tug on the shifter when going 1-2 ! You should be fine ! (Be glad you don't have to shift a Harley... :roll: ) LOL
Adjusting the shift lever to your foot makes a big difference in how easy or hard the bike shifts.
Always use the KISS method.
ValleySquid
02-25-2012, 02:27 PM
Guys thanks a lot for your replies!!!, it makes me feel a little better that I wont have to spend more on labor and parts that what the bike is worth. I was already losing sleep bout this, and I was even calling a "certified mechanic" that I found on craigslist last night.. to add fuel to the fire, I was youtubing when I came across a ninja 250 video titled "transmission exploded 250" and so, I was sure that was gonna happen to mine soon.... hahahaha thankfully I found this forum in time.
To answer some questions above, Yes I did get the owner's manual with the bike and some tools too! Which I thought it was pretty cool. Yes, Oil and filter was changed, (though I never saw that). Other than that the bike runs great, I mean when I start it up in the morning I just give it a little choke and it runs perfect, after a few minutes I retract the choke and it idles fine. First is kind of jumpy and clunky but nothing serious, so I sort of like to start in 2nd. Sometimes..
What I'm doing next is, *Oil change (even though the seller said they did it recently)
* adjust the clutch lever on my left hand side... (9/16's of an inch)? I suppose?
-
* and I how do I adjust the shift lever on my foot using the KISS method? theres the foot peg thing you shift going up or down, then a rod, then that rod is attached to a knob, it that what I'm supposed to adjust?
Again thanks for all your replies!! I appreciate your time.
J.
blaine
02-25-2012, 04:02 PM
Yes,loosen the nuts at either end of the rod and when you turn it,you move the pedal up or down.When you check your clutch lever make sure the 9/16" is out at outer end.(about the thickness of a nickel in at the pivot)
:cool: :2tup:
Water Warrior 2
02-25-2012, 05:02 PM
First is kind of jumpy and clunky. Yup, they do that. Especially the first time when the engine and oil are cold. That is just the nature of many bikes. With time(as mentioned)parts will wear-in and smoothen out. Your bike and you you are relatively new so don't over think the situation. Use the manual to adjust the foot and hand controls to your own body size and shape. You need more saddle time to get the feel of the bike and after a while the odd clunk into first will be a reassuring sound.
To help reduce the clunk you can pull in and release the clutch a few times after the initial start of the day. This helps to free up the clutch plates from one another. It does work too. My Vstrom with 50,000km will rarely do more than a slight mild clunk and never lurch forward as it did when new.
Oh, before I forget and you probably don't know yet. The engine, transmission and clutch all use the same oil at the same time. The clutch is an oil bath design which makes it darn hard to overheat and damage.
ValleySquid
02-25-2012, 10:14 PM
Thanks!! I'll try to adjust everything tomorrow! And MAYBE if I feel a bit McGyverish try to change the oil and filter. I hear our bikes use 10w40 synthetic?
Thanks guys!! replies much appreciated!
Water Warrior 2
02-25-2012, 10:24 PM
Synthetic oil is very good but I switched both bikes to cheap dino Rotella 15-40 in both bikes. It works well and saves a lot of $. Recently Shell finally got around to actually getting Rotella certified for motorcycle use. I guess they finally got the message with so many riders using it.
Road_Clam
02-26-2012, 08:28 AM
Thanks!! I'll try to adjust everything tomorrow! And MAYBE if I feel a bit McGyverish try to change the oil and filter. I hear our bikes use 10w40 synthetic?
Thanks guys!! replies much appreciated!
Mineral vs. synthetic oil is a HOTLY contested techno argument. I've been changing oil in motorcycles for the past 30 years, and I had some negative clutch slippage issues when switching to a full syn formula, so I don't use a full synthetic in my motorcycles. IMO what's more important than "what type of oil" is the fact you need to CHANGE the oil at least once a year. I now only use straight mineral formulas. My oil of preference is Castrol 10W40 M/C oil. It's very reasonable, specifically formulated for wet clutches, and it's available 7 miles away from me at my local Autozone :2tup:
I do also hear that a lot of veteran air cooled M/C guys like Rotella T , as I understand the elevated levels of Zinc in the Rotella is a good thing for air cooled bikes (which tend to burn some oil vs. liquid cooled bikes). I've never tried Rotella so I really can't comment further.
chandlerbingfl
02-26-2012, 11:32 PM
I've experienced the 1st to 2nd issue, just often enough to remember it happening.... What always concerns me more is shifting from Neutral to 1st while the bike is running. More often than not I get a pretty mind wrenching clunk.... Sometimes it's not so bad depending on rpms... but still annoying....
AFAIK all adjustments are in spec....
chandlerbingfl
blaine
02-26-2012, 11:38 PM
What always concerns me more is shifting from Neutral to 1st while the bike is running. More often than not I get a pretty mind wrenching clunk.... Sometimes it's not so bad depending on rpms... but still annoying....
chandlerbingfl
That's normal.Most bikes do it to some extent,some more than others.
:) :cool:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KISS_principle
:)
ValleySquid
02-27-2012, 01:08 AM
I get it hahaha :retard: :lol:
PimpS
02-27-2012, 11:38 AM
You learn something new everyday--- KISS method... Very nice! ;)
vBulletin® v3.8.4, Copyright ©2000-2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.