Choke setting in the cold

[minieggroll]

Hello!

I was riding today and wondering what the appropriate setting is for the choke when it is cold outside. I was riding today with a high of 38 degrees needing about 1/2-3/4 choke for the bike not to die at idle.

I start her up with full choke for about 5 minutes since it is so cold. Am I using the proper choke settings and is this normal/okay for my bike to need half choke at this temp?

Thanks!

[Gz Rider]

...

[5th_bike]

In my case, I also push the choke to about halfway when taking off, and to "off" after a mile or so. But even then, idle is clearly at lower rpms than after say five to eight miles, when it's really heated up well.

[edit] don't have it sit and idle for 5 minutes, better just take off with full or 3/4 choke, once in second or third gear move choke back to about halfway, etc. Your engine warms up much faster when it's working rather than just running.

[blaine]

Sounds like a gummed up carb to me.Put some SeaFoam or Berrymans b-12 in a tank of fuel.It may take a couple of days to see a improvement.Put about 3 oz's in a full tank.
:) :cool:

[Water Warrior 2]

A short warm up before riding is okay. Keep in mind that riding will warm up the oil faster as well as everything else. If you leave it run just long enough for the fins to be warm to the touch then you should be okay. This was a guide line we used to use so keep in mind your own experience may vary somewhat.

[minieggroll]

My bike idles at low rpms with no choke in my opinion. Could this be caused by a dirty carb or is it just the idle setting?

[blaine]

My bike idles at low rpms with no choke in my opinion. Could this be caused by a dirty carb or is it just the idle setting?
Probably just the idle setting.With the bike fully warmed up,turn the white knob counter clockwise to increase the idle.
:) :cool:

[Gz Rider]

...

[mrlmd1]

The choke (enricher) is only used to start the bike, is not needed for riding once the bike warms up, which should be within a few minutes or a mile or so. This does not operate like the butterfly valve in an automobile carbeuretor, it is an enricher circuit that accomplishes the same thing by allowing more fuel to enter the carb, enriching the mixture.
If the bike dies with the engine warm, it's either the idle speed is too low or the carb (idle jet) is dirty, you should not need the enricher to supply more fuel to keep it running. Try the Berrymans for a while, it may clean it up.

[minieggroll]

Turns out the idle screw was really lose. I tried turning it about turns but that was not enough. Screwed it in much tighter and the bike runs fine with no choke.

[mrlmd1]

Glad your problem's solved and all is good.

[Road_Clam]

Hello!

I was riding today and wondering what the appropriate setting is for the choke when it is cold outside. I was riding today with a high of 38 degrees needing about 1/2-3/4 choke for the bike not to die at idle.

I start her up with full choke for about 5 minutes since it is so cold. Am I using the proper choke settings and is this normal/okay for my bike to need half choke at this temp?

Thanks!

The issue with most all modern bikes is the EPA sets very strict emissions standards for bikes and the standards are aimed at low speed cruising engine emissions output. So the factories jet the a/f mixture ratios so lean that when the temps get cooler the carb jetting becomes even leaner (cold air = leaner running engine, warm air = richer running engine). So riders that live down south it's generally less of an issue, but those of us that live up north it's a much bigger issue. This makes for bikes that hesitate, stall easily, and are hard to start cold. So I ended up pulling the epa plug and richening the air fuel screw 1/2 turn, and I added a shim under the carb needle to richen the low to midrange running. Our GZ runs perfect (even at a chilly 42F) . Problem is most dealerships will not pull the epa plug as it's illegal for them.