View Full Version : Sounds of a GZ trying to start
Gz Rider
10-26-2011, 10:18 PM
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Water Warrior 2
10-26-2011, 10:23 PM
Well done. Your award is in the mail. :whistle:
Gz Rider
10-26-2011, 10:27 PM
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jonathan180iq
10-27-2011, 08:58 AM
You taking a shot at me? :neener:
Gz Rider
10-27-2011, 02:34 PM
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Jvacustoms
10-27-2011, 03:43 PM
Do most gz's turn over that long to start.... Mine seems to be crank start no turning over. Just like My car just crank start not even multiple revolutions of the starter. It is "ca..vroom" but mine is garage kept and choked 1/2 way when I start it every morning. and outside all day when i start it in the evening.
mrlmd1
10-27-2011, 03:53 PM
His bike does sound a little long to start. Mine started within 1 sec, maybe 1 or 2 revs of the engine.
Gz Rider
10-27-2011, 03:58 PM
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Jvacustoms
10-27-2011, 04:03 PM
Do most gz's turn over that long to start.... Mine seems to be crank start no turning over. Just like My car just crank start not even multiple revolutions of the starter. It is "ca..vroom" but mine is garage kept and choked 1/2 way when I start it every morning. and outside all day when i start it in the evening.
For the 3rd sound effect (actual starting) I had two issues. First, I ran the carb dry in order to make the long cranking effect used in sound two. Second, I actually spliced the cranking (of the second sound) into the third sound of it starting up because it started so quickly you couldn't hear much cranking so it just sounded like an engine running.
So no, normally it would not crank that long. Also the term "turn over" usually means the engine starts up (combustion begins). Some may feel that "turn over" means the engine cranking as in sound two.
I actually meant that the starter was turning over the engine not that the engine was making a revolution on its own, by means of combustion. Just making sure that there wasn't something wrong with my bike like a fuel leak... i.e. leaking down at the carburetor so that the engine was already to start all the time because then there might be fuel leaking into the cylinder head and that could pose a major problem and pollute the oil and/or make the clutch slip as well as not cool it off as well.
Gz Rider
10-27-2011, 04:10 PM
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Jvacustoms
10-27-2011, 04:13 PM
If your bike starts right up (as mine does) that's a good thing. Sometimes a dirty carb can cause hard starts (several cranks to get it to start up) or evaporation of fuel in the float bowl can delay startup a little.
If you have any concern of fuel leaking into your crankcase keep an eye on your oil level and how your oil comes out during a change. My guess would be yours is fine.
Then there is nothing for me to worry about the oil came out clean just like it went in I changed it a week ago and there was no fuel smell and was no carbon just the normal color change. I love Lucas oil its is great stuff!
Gz Rider
10-27-2011, 04:49 PM
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Jvacustoms
10-27-2011, 04:54 PM
as is mine however it hasn't started forming "grit" for lack of a better word, I replace oil and filter every change at 3000 miles
jonathan180iq
10-27-2011, 04:57 PM
...Sometimes a dirty carb can cause hard starts (several cranks to get it to start up) or evaporation of fuel in the float bowl can delay startup a little.
.
Valves out of adjustment can also do that.
Gz Rider
10-27-2011, 05:00 PM
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Gz Rider
10-27-2011, 05:10 PM
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Water Warrior 2
10-27-2011, 07:59 PM
as is mine however it hasn't started forming "grit" for lack of a better word, I replace oil and filter every change at 3000 miles
When you say "as is mine" I assume you are saying your oil is coming out opaque after 3000 miles. If that is the case then your statement of "...the oil came out clean just like it went in.." is not correct. It went in golden and transpartent and came out black and opaque correct?
The confusion may be that you are expecting to see grit (or whatever) in your oil. That should not happen. It should still be smooth. Carbon from combustion turns it black but if there was anything "chunkier" (for lack of a better term) in the oil, it would ruin your engine.
Yup, even used oil should still be smooth on your fingers. An ex bro of mine was told by a so-called mechanic changing oil was not needed until you could feel the grit between your fingers. Guess he took it to heart and just added oil now and again. 4 oil changes in 100,000 miles equals a very expensive rebuild. He then proceeded to run the newly rebuilt engine for 20,000 before an oil change. Brilliant !!
5th_bike
10-27-2011, 09:47 PM
Sounds great !
But if this is the sound you wanted to upload - it's 452 Mb according to the information, and a .wav file as well -
I though that didn't work, with a smaller .wav ... :??:
Gz Rider
10-27-2011, 10:12 PM
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5th_bike
10-27-2011, 10:18 PM
Sorry about that, I saw it was wrong but didn't get to delete it in time.
I hit "back" from an edit and somehow thought I hadn't submitted it.
1) your file is less than ½ Mb
2) it's a WMA not a WAV.
My post is out of order, inappropriate, inaccurate, totally besides the point etc. so, my apologies.
Me --> :retard:
Jvacustoms
10-27-2011, 10:45 PM
as is mine however it hasn't started forming "grit" for lack of a better word, I replace oil and filter every change at 3000 miles
When you say "as is mine" I assume you are saying your oil is coming out opaque after 3000 miles. If that is the case then your statement of "...the oil came out clean just like it went in.." is not correct. It went in golden and transpartent and came out black and opaque correct?
The confusion may be that you are expecting to see grit (or whatever) in your oil. That should not happen. It should still be smooth. Carbon from combustion turns it black but if there was anything "chunkier" (for lack of a better term) in the oil, it would ruin your engine.
Clean as in it had not phase seperated or deteriorated it is just blackened as the oil should be if the oil came out golden then there would be a gret deal of problem with something in the engine because the oil wouldn't be circulating as is should. And as for the grit you won't always feel it you can see specks on the oil if you run it between your fingers when oil starts to deteriorate I know that is how the army decides when oil gets changed in a truck it is tested for carbon content and if it doesn't have a lot ofcarbon or isn't deteriorating it gets left alone. Not changed just because but the longest I personally have seen a vehicle run with out getting a deterioration or a carbon content too great is 7500 miles. That is still alot . Phase seperation only occurs when gas has been introduced to the fuel and starts to split and coagulate.
Gz Rider
10-28-2011, 07:46 AM
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Gz Rider
10-28-2011, 07:50 AM
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blaine
10-28-2011, 08:19 AM
I have always been in the habit of changing my oil & filters at 3000 miles (5000 km) in all my vehicle.My G.Z. had 46000 km's on her when she was sold,still ran like a champ and used no oil.
:cool: :2tup:
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