Installed 130 main jet/ cone filter. Gas leaks out of intake

[Kcarvajal]

Guys, I was intimidated by rejetting until yesterday when I decided to dive in. Now I know why. :cry:

I installed a cone filter and a 130 main jet since I have a straight pipe and now a new filter. After installation, it fired right up and idled like before. I didn't test ride since it was late, so I called it a night.

This evening, as I was working on the bike to clean up the cables, I decided to start the bike. I noticed it didn't idle as well and would just die. A couple times, it won't start. Checked and gas was low. So I filled her up and tried starting. It had a hard time, and I had to hold the starter a little longer than usual until it turns over. In the process, I noticed black smoke out of the pipe. Once it fully turned over, the idle was a tad high and Not like before. Then I noticed gas leaking out from the back of the carb where the new intake was installed (where the air box was connected to previously).

I haven't removed the plug to adjust the mixture screw. A bit intimidated by that also for some reason.

Any tips, ideas or advice on what I did wrong?

Thanks!
Ken

[blaine]

It sounds like your float may be hung up,or a bit of dirt keeping the needle from seating causing the carb to flood.Pull the float bowl & double check.
:cool:

[jonathan180iq]

I agree. Something hasn't sealed right.

Pull the tank, pull the carb and just start over. You'll see that without the airbox in there, it's 100 times easier than it was the first time. Don't be intimidated by the idle mixture. What you've done already is the hardest part.

Someone might recommend just turning the carb sideways and working on it that way. I think you'll have a better chance of making sure you don't make any mistakes when the whole thing is resting in your hands.

And one last thing, the main jet affects all ranges of jetting, but mostly the 3/4-full throttle part. If you only install a bigger jet, and don't adjust the pilot or idle mixture, your mixture will be off on the bottom end. Fix the flooding issue first, and then worry about that though...

[Kcarvajal]

Guys,

Thanks so much for the advice. I am eager to get home from work and give this a shot.

As for the mixture screw, is there a gap between that and the plug? Say… ¼ of space before I could potentially hit the screw? (or something along those lines) My thought is since I will need to adjust this anyway, figured I can tackle this while I have the carb uninstalled. Although, as you said, it isn’t difficult to remove the carb now that the airbox is gone.

I’ll give a status by end of the weekend (hopefully by end of the night).

In the mean time, I made a fake oil tank from a couple condiment cans. In this case, flour and sugar taken from my very own kitchen. The wife was surprisingly willing and just asked that I put what’s in them in ziplocks. COOL!

I cut a hole underneath to fit the battery through, which will sit on the swing arm. Just gotta figure out how to secure it, but it shouldn’t go anywhere once I fasten the fake tank. The rest of the electrical gadgets are either hidden under the gas tank and will be in the fake oil tank. Plenty of room for what’s left.

Here’s a pic. KFlint wasn’t’ kidding about hiding all of these wirings being a PIA. Once things are running perfectly, I will work on removing the tabs.

Thanks again!!!

[attachment=0:2d4e0zlr]IMG_20110812_061354.jpg[/attachment:2d4e0zlr]

[jonathan180iq]

That's looking pretty good, man.

To answer your first question, there is some space behind the plug. It's just a thin metal thing. Use a tiny drill bit and as soon as you are through, stop the drill and pull backwards. It will come right out. The worst thing that will happen is that you bump the threads a little bit. I doubt you are reckless enough to actually drill into the screw head.... :drool:

For securing the battery, how about welding a small anchor point on the bottom of the swingarm, just enough so that you can wrap a rubber strap around the battery and anchor it that?

Something like this: :)

http://i52.tinypic.com/34xq2id.jpg

PS: That's interesting exhaust routing. Any particular reason you went that way? Looks like it sticks out enough to burn your calf.

[Kcarvajal]

Jonathan,

That is a great idea. Thank you!

As for the exhaust, I bought the bike used and it came with those. It's the same on the other side. I wasn't too keen on it at first, but for the overall look of the bike, it actually kinda works. Although, I'd rather get two going vertical down under the engine or something. That or have it go go straight instead of the wrap around the engine. Something you'd typically see on a triumph bobber or something. But this bike is LOUD. I'm tempted to install baffles or something to tone it down a bit.

As for it burning my calf, I have accidentally touched it but never really burned myself.

[jonathan180iq]

The owner of my most recent bike apparently gutted the factor exhaust for some extra sound. It sound, as you would imagine, like a muffler with it's guts missing and it doesn't resonate very well. So, being a fan of the frugal mods and part corrections, I stopped into the Home Depot and started brainstorming for ways to make a baffle for it.

I wound up in the plumbing and pipes section, where they sell brass and galvinized piping, and I bought a 1/2" threaded flange and 5" of threaded galvinized pipe, already with a black finish. (For whatever reason, the black finish was $2 cheaper than the bright silver finish) I threaded the pipe into the flange and stuck it up the exit hole pipe first.

I then just used 4 self tapping sheet metal screws and lock washers to keep it in place and sealed the mating areas with this stuff called QuickSteel. It's been working fine so far.

I don't think you'll be able to use my exact idea, as you won't have anything to drill into. But this might help stimulate the old brain:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41SRO6n-dGL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

http://xlforum.net/photopost/data/1093/medium/biknutproductions1501.jpg

http://roadstarclinic.com/TechTips/Exhaust/Images/HKBaffMod7.jpg

[Kcarvajal]

Jonathan, this is great! Love the pics also.

How much did it reduce the sound?

Thanks man!

[jonathan180iq]

Those pics aren't from my bike. I just wanted to get your creative juices flowing. From everything I've read on the internet, those little strainer cups work just good enough to remove the deafening sound but still leave plenty of the thump that everyone wants to feel.

My little invention worked well too.

[Water Warrior 2]

Now I understand. The 2 pipes had me wondering. I was thinking that 2 strainers placed face to face might be even mellower for folks like me. Just love these penny tech ideas and big box stores with all sorts of stuff.

[jonathan180iq]

If you slide them together in a way that caused the holes to overlap just slighty, thus reducing the diameter of each hole, and bolted them together, it would serve as an adjustable baffle. It would also allow you to adjust your backpressue without having to rejet.

Hey! It's a poor man's Supertrapp ;)

[Kcarvajal]

IT WORKS!!!

I did as you guys suggested. I double checked my work. Not sure if the float was stuck but I removed the carb, the bowl, checked the float, removed the jet and re-installed it. Made sure everything is where they belong, etc. No leaks, idles, starts right up.

I've just gotten back from a 30 mile ride and all feels well. There seems to be less vibrations. Before my hands would tingle after a ride. Not this time. I wanna say it feels smoother and less torquey (sp?) coming out of the lower gear. 5th gear still pulls (16T installed). I like it alot! YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME! THANK YOU!!!

BTW, I tried removing the plug for the mixture screw but couldn't get it off all the way. I ran to the store to get a bigger drill bit, looked in the carb, and saw a thin piece of copper sticking out where a hole should be. Is that right? Did I accidentally twist the screw some how? In any case, it may have been to my advantage. But I'd like to fix it if it shouldn't be that way.

Still haven't taken the tabs off, but this is her for now. I raised the tank by the way to get the look I want and to also have some space to hide some wiring. Battery is held by the fake tank. The opening under is just enough for the battery plus some wires. I'll need to tidy it up some more, but I'm almost there!!!!

:rawk:

[attachment=0:339aeo12]IMG_20110813_002002.jpg[/attachment:339aeo12]

[Water Warrior 2]

The less torquey feeling may be a good sign. Your actual torque curve is probably coming in earlier and lasting longer without a sudden hit due to munged up carb settings. The smoothness is masking the length of the power curve. Does that make any sense to you ? Take another ride with that thought in mind.

[blaine]

I've just gotten back from a 30 mile ride and all feels well. There seems to be less vibrations. Before my hands would tingle after a ride. Not this time. I wanna say it feels smoother and less torquey (sp?) coming out of the lower gear. 5th gear still pulls (16T installed). I like it alot! YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME! THANK YOU!!!

BTW, I tried removing the plug for the mixture screw but couldn't get it off all the way. I ran to the store to get a bigger drill bit, looked in the carb, and saw a thin piece of copper sticking out where a hole should be. Is that right? Did I accidentally twist the screw some how? In any case, it may have been to my advantage. But I'd like to fix it if it shouldn't be that way.
Glad you got it sorted out.It will feel less "buzzy" because your rpm's are lower,that is also why it feels like you have less torque.You can remove what's left of the plug,with a self-threading screw.It will penetrate the plug and you can pop it out.
:cool: :)

[Kcarvajal]

Thanks guys! What about that thin piece of copper that is now sticking it out inside the carb? It looks like it's directly above where the pilot screw.

Ken

[blaine]

Thanks guys! What about that thin piece of copper that is now sticking it out inside the carb? It looks like it's directly above where the pilot screw.

Ken
Not sure.Did you catch the side of the carb with the drill bit? As long as the screw will turn when you get the plug out your O.K. The pilot screw has a spring,washer,and o-ring on it.Did you drill deep enough to go through the top of the pilot screw,exposing the spring.It would take very little pressure to drill through the plug and hit the screw.The head of the screw should have a slot across the head,for a straight screw driver bit to fit into for adjustment.
:??: :)

[Kcarvajal]

Hopefully I didnt twist the screw accidentally or soomething. I'll ride some more later. But based on riding it lastnight it was fine. I'll probably just leave it.

Thanks man!

[jonathan180iq]

If you have a small enough hole drilled, a tiny pair of needle nose pliers should finish the job of pulling the plug out and cleaning up the area around it. You just need enough space to get a flat-head screwdriver head in there.

[Kcarvajal]

Thanks again fellas!

Went for a ride lastnight and all is well. I may tinker with the mixture down the road. So far it seems to be running well, so I will just leave it as-is for now.

What gear are you guys on mostly? I find myself in 5th most of the time when cruising down the streets. Not sure if it is normal.

Thanks!
Ken

[alantf]

I find myself in 5th most of the time when cruising down the streets. Not sure if it is normal.

Most of our speed limits are 50km/hr (around 30 mph) & I'm in 5th most of the time when just cruising along. Seems normal enough, to me. :2tup:

[mrlmd1]

You can ride in 5th at 30 mph steady speed as there is very little load on the engine just to maintain that speed, but if you have to accelerate to a higher speed, you are better off shifting into a lower gear so you don't bog down the engine. It generates very little power in 5th gear at low rpms. and you may even stall it if conditions are not right.

[alantf]

You can ride in 5th at 30 mph steady speed, but if you have to accelerate to a higher speed, you are better off shifting into a lower gear

:plus1: