Valve Adjustment Tools

[Badbob]

These tools are not required to do a valve adjustment but the will make it a lot easier to do. I got mine here (http://tinyurl.com/gdy9k) for $22.99. Do the adjustment without them one time and then do it with them and you will understand.

Kawasaki Valve Adjustment Kit

The label off my package:

You should also get some feeler gauges made for motorcycles. I use the Motion Pro Tappet Feeler Gauges. The shape of these gauges makes adjustment much easier. I tried using automotive style feeler gauges and managed to break some and never could get the gap just right. Automotive style gauges are cheaper but they can be very difficult to use. You'll need two gauges. One Part # 08-0392 Tappet Feeler Gauge, 002-.003 (http://tinyurl.com/jvbak) and one Part # 08-0393 Tappet Feeler Gauge, .004-.005 (http://tinyurl.com/jvbak). Don't be to concerned about not having the .001 gauge you don't need it. If the clearance is at minimum or below you need to loosen them up. The gap gets smaller as they wear. If they get to tight the valves will burn. A little loose is better than a little tight. Remember to check them before you loosen any thing. They may not need adjusting. I had a hard time finding these where they had one of each of the sizes I needed. The cards of six were relatively easy to find. These come all six in one size and two of each for about $25.

Motion Pro Tappet Feeler Guages
http://robertkeeney.com/gallery/d/1145-1/Motion-Pro-Tappet-Feeler-Gauge-02.jpg

[oneyunguy]

I used two aluminum "standoffs" roughly an inch long each, with one phillips-head screw longer than at least one piece, in one end to hold them together with some cyanacrolite (Krazy Glue) for added strength. Then I added a Robertson-head screw to the other end that fit perfectly over the valve stem head. Course, you still needed a wrench, so this one may be only good with the engine out perhaps. It worked great when I did my cylinder overhaul.

Cheap and effective.

I cant seem to get a good enough photo, sorry.

cheers.

[Badbob]

It took me awhile to visualize this. The it finaly dawned on me that a Robertson Screw was a square drive and everything fell into place. Good tip. :tup:

If you already have an offset wrench that fits the nut this should work.

[Dirt_McGert]

It says the part is no longer available, any other tools kits?

[Badbob]

Take a look at the Motion Pro website or try your local Kawasaki dealer. Either will cost more.

Print a the photo and don't tell them you are buying it for a GZ250 unless you must.

[GZ250]

valve adjustment kit also available at;
http://www.cyclepages.com/ProductGroupD ... ID=4002299 (http://www.cyclepages.com/ProductGroupDisp.aspx?ProductGroupID=4002299)


there are two sizes (8 and 10mm) (9 and 10mm). The kawasaki kit has (8and 10mm).

[trykemike]

Bad Bob re: valve adjustment :

1 - how much tension is required on the lock nut ?

2 - are the tappets in pairs since we have a 4 valve head ?

3 - you indicated tdc occurrs 2 times 1 on intake 1 on compression which do you use ?

[Badbob]

Use TDC on the compression stroke. I put my finger in the sparkplug hole and slowly turn the engin until I feel the compression.

There is one adjustment for each valve.

Check the service manual for torque specs but I don't think you will find it. I've never seen any one use a torque wrench for this. My snug is to tight for my wife to break loose. My snug is her tight. The lock nuy needs to be tight enough it will not come loose. MIne never have so I must be getting it tight enough.

[trykemike]

can anybody advise on what torque to tighten the valve adjustment lock nut . I have purchased the tools specified on this site.

I checked the manual but did not see the torque spec for it.

[Easy Rider]

can anybody advise on what torque to tighten the valve adjustment lock nut . I have purchased the tools specified on this site.
I checked the manual but did not see the torque spec for it.

Mmmmm, let's see.........Maybe that is because it would be impossible (as far as I know) to keep a screwdriver on the adjuster bolt and at the same time apply a torque wrench to the nut. :roll:

Make them TIGHT using a box or open end wrench. You don't have enough leverage to do any real damage with a wrench that small. :tup:

[trykemike]

thanks for the info guys I did check an old honda shop manual for this info the suggestion was just snug the lock nut back.

always beleive to error on the side of caution.

[Badbob]

always beleive to error on the side of caution.

I second that. If it can be broken I can break it.

[trykemike]

what size socket is required to rotate the engine to align the tdc markings ?

[Badbob]

A big one. :)

Seriously, I don't have a clue. I just grab one out of the set that looks like it will work. If it fits I use it.

[xt477]

To rotate the engine socket size is 22mm
Big screw driver with a wrench to open the generator cover
10mm to remove most of the other bolts.
Think it was a 17mm to open the timing mark access bolt.

As usual I may have gotten myself in trouble but had to remove what I think are a couple of head bolts to get the feeler in there.

Both mentioned suppliers discontinued the wrench set so I used an 8mm open boxed end and pair of large needle nose pliers.

Also removed the chromed decoration to make the engine look bigger. Again removed what I am afraid are head bolts.

Most say that every project is just another excuse to buy more tools. Seems all I do create more projects : )

[Badbob]

http://www.robertkeeney.com/gallery/d/2243-2/Motionpro-Timing_Plug_Wrench-08-00087-02.jpg

This is a pretty nice tool to have. If you can find one. It doesn' bugger up the slots as easily as a screwdriver. I got mine on a clearance sale.

[5th_bike]

That valve adjustment tool set works great indeed, one of my exhaust valves was too tight, and both intake valves needed a little more space too. Set them, checked them, everything works great. Now there is a much more pronounced "pop" from the (stock) exhaust. :rawk:

[blaine]

That valve adjustment tool set works great indeed, one of my exhaust valves was too tight, and both intake valves needed a little more space too. Set them, checked them, everything works great. Now there is a much more pronounced "pop" from the (stock) exhaust. :rawk:



I found the same thing.Exhaust is much throatier when valves are adjusted properly.Really noticeable with aftermarket exhaust. :2tup: :2tup:

[kirk]

For the curious, the above 3 sided tool can be had here:
Motion Pro Timing Plug Wrench, $17.95
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/ ... rench.aspx (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/205/5093/ITEM/Motion-Pro-Timing-Plug-Wrench.aspx)
Blade sizes are 16mm, 22mm and 38mm.
Its a handy tool to have around. I have this one and it's good quality.

[GinetteHuber]

http://xdb.xanga.com/3ccf845531433284582134/b227072903.jpg

[alantf]

Again..... SPAM