New owner, new rider

[technocat]

Hey, I just picked up a new 2009 model year GZ250 and just from the drive home, I absolutely love it so far.

When I bought it, it had just 370 miles on it, but you couldn't tell it had been driven at all except by looking at the ODO. The guys at Mt. Baker Motorsports where I bought it said it was a loaner for the local instructor of a safety class, so it was treated extremely well by an experienced rider for its 370 miles, and it already had its first service (they never said what that entailed)

My first question is, how often should I expect to service it? I mean oil change, chain lube, etc. I have been working on cars, rebuilding engines for several years but I am very new to the motorcycle world.

Any tips would be awesome! Thanks! :2tup:

[Water Warrior 2]

Welcome. Owners manual may be under the seat or behind the left side cover with the key hole in it. If not I would suggest going back to the dealer and asking for one. If all else fails then buy one. It is full of vital info and should be kept with the bike.

[blaine]

Welcome to the forum.The main thing at the first service(600 miles) is a valve adjustment.With only 370 miles on the bike,I would wonder if the valves were checked.I always lubed and adjusted the chain at 600 miles.I changed the oil every 3000 miles.I find that these bikes shift much smoother,if you use synthetic oil.I used Amsoil 10-40.I know with synthetic oil,I could have stretched out the change intervals,but for 1300 ml why bother.Good luck with your new ride.
:) :cool:

[technocat]

I did get the owners manual and all the paperwork with it, I just haven't gotten a chance to read it since yesterday...I figure I should do that before asking too many dingbat questions here and wasting your time. But thanks for the tips so far! I will ask whether the valves were checked during the first service...I do notice a bit of a rattle at idle, but it seems that is pretty common.

[alanmcorcoran]

Although it's cheesy to ask, many of us are curious about what you might have paid (like me.)

Also, a "rattle" doesn't sound quite right. Yes, there is some typical engine noise and the thing vibrates a lot at speed, but I'm not sure I'd say mine rattles. Might just ba a matter of perception though. I'd take a look for loose parts - perhaps the trim, or exhaust? Also, A bike ridden that few miles may run a little rough until you get a couple of tanks of gas through it.

[technocat]

Sure, well I'm pretty sure that I'm being picky when I say "rattle" it's not loose parts but just a harmonic vibration at a specific idle RPM, although since I added some Lucas Moto Oil stabilizer, it has been much quieter.

I have only driven it 35 miles while I owned it and it's still under 400 total so I will reserve anything further until it's broken in a bit more.

As for the $$$, it was MSRP at Mt Baker Motosports for $4200, but was marked down to $2999 due to the 300 miles already on it and being a 2009 model year. It was the last one of its kind available there. Of course there was financing and some accesories and the extra 5 yr warranty that I paid more for, but that was the starting point. It's great for a beginner.

Nonetheless, I will double check for anything loose. As they said, it was mostly ridden around in a parking lot by an instructor of a MSF class, so I'm the first to get it above 40 mph I'm sure.

[blaine]

Sure, well I'm pretty sure that I'm being picky when I say "rattle" it's not loose parts but just a harmonic vibration at a specific idle RPM, although since I added some Lucas Moto Oil stabilizer, it has been much quieter.


You should not add any additives to the oil as it will ruin your clutch.Also be careful not to use any oil that is labeled "Energy conserving".You may want to change your oil,to insure that you don't do any damage to your clutch.
:cool: :)

[bonehead]

I have a rattle at certain rpm's. It is coming from the key hole cover on the gas cap.

[tcrave]

I thought I read somewhere on here that a brand new bike cost $3,000? I could be wrong. That is a very nice looking bike! You will probably want to change the oil filter every other oil change. They are expensive at Autozone, like $15, but if you order from eBay or Amazon, you can get them for $7-8. I know its a dealer, but unless you have paperwork, I would be hesitant to trust word of mouth. If you decide to change the oil yourself, make sure you use the right oil plug. There are two plugs right next to each other...one holds the cam shaft stopper, the other is the actual oil plug. First time I change the oil, I took out the wrong plug and found a little metal plunger thing and a spring fall out, freaked me out. Not a big deal if you take out the wrong plug, just put the stuff back in, in the right order, and take the other one out.

I have a question for you...is your first gear synchronized?

[alanmcorcoran]

tc, they are $2999.99 new. BUT... you'll have to pay about $500 shipping, plus (probably) a couple hundred for assembly. So, it's really about $3,700.00. And many dealers will add on other crap fees on top of that. There's typically no shipping and assembly on a used bike and it's harder to get the crap fees. And this bike doesn't really sound like it's actually a "used" one.

[blaine]

If you decide to change the oil yourself, make sure you use the right oil plug. There are two plugs right next to each other...one holds the cam shaft stopper, the other is the actual oil plug.

The one closest to the front is the oil drain plug. :) :lol:

[tcrave]

If you decide to change the oil yourself, make sure you use the right oil plug. There are two plugs right next to each other...one holds the cam shaft stopper, the other is the actual oil plug.

The one closest to the front is the oil drain plug. :) :lol:
yep, learned that one the hard way :whistle:

[technocat]

Sure, well I'm pretty sure that I'm being picky when I say "rattle" it's not loose parts but just a harmonic vibration at a specific idle RPM, although since I added some Lucas Moto Oil stabilizer, it has been much quieter.


You should not add any additives to the oil as it will ruin your clutch.Also be careful not to use any oil that is labeled "Energy conserving".You may want to change your oil,to insure that you don't do any damage to your clutch.
:cool: :)

I guess I should have checked first. It's the Lucas motorcycle formula which I assumed was safe for wet clutches, but on second look on the label, it doesn't mention clutches at all...so I guess I'll change it to be sure.

[alantf]

Don't use any oil that says "energy conserving". It should tell you that in the owner's manual. :2tup:

[technocat]

Don't use any oil that says "energy conserving". It should tell you that in the owner's manual. :2tup:

I got that from the manual, not worried about that part.

Also, thought I'd let everyone know I aced the drive test and am now endorsed! :rawk:

[alanmcorcoran]

Congratulations. Take it easy and have fun.

[mole2]

Congratulations and welcome to the forum from South Carolina. Ride safe.


:)

[GZBrian]

Congrats on the new bike. I change my oil and filter every 3,000 miles. I clean and lube the chain every 750 miles. I used to use the grunge brush but that was a real pain. What I have found that works for me, is to use the chain clean spray and a toothbrush. I do about 4-6 links at a time. I put the bike on a rear stand lift, and a front in a drive in holder thing I got at Harbor Freight and secure the bike down. I then remove the chain guard and spray the few links down and scrub them down with the toothbrush on both sides the side facing you and the side facing the other side of the bike. I go on the other side so I can see what I am doing and scrub that side good as well. I then wipe them off. I then use a Q-tip with cleaner on it and scrub the rollers and links. Here is my newest thing that I have tried 4 times already and it works great. I use a very soft "pipe cleaner" cut about 6" long. I am careful not to jab the metal wire into anything and I dip the pipe cleaner into the chain cleaner. I then insert it in between the links and kind of rub as bit ariound the O ring, and do the same for the in between links. This gets the chain really clean and I have not damaged any O rings on my chain. Again I am VERY careful when using the pipe cleaner. This really does a good job on the chain that is why I go for about 750 miles instead of 600. I use the motorcycle 10-40 Mobil 1 that my local Auto zone had on sale in February. I buy my years worth of oil when it is on sale. Next year I am going to try the Synthetic oil as alot of people really seem to like the shifting with it. Hope this helps. GZBrian