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spicciani
03-24-2011, 06:08 PM
I had today off and i decided to show my bike some love . i have about 5000 miles on her so i thought why not adjust the valves . any way i adjusted them on the loose side of spec .0025" on the intake and .004 on the ex . put the bike back together and it is making a ton of valve noise.

what is your experience with valve adj . should i have adjusted to the tight end of the spec of have a made a mistake

blaine
03-24-2011, 06:35 PM
I had today off and i decided to show my bike some love . i have about 5000 miles on her so i thought why not adjust the valves . any way i adjusted them on the loose side of spec .0025" on the intake and .004 on the ex . put the bike back together and it is making a ton of valve noise.

what is your experience with valve adj . should i have adjusted to the tight end of the spec of have a made a mistake
Your intake valves are to loose.The proper measurements are IN:0.03-0.08 mm or 0.001-0.003 in
EX:0.08-0.13mm or 0.003-0.005 in
I always adjust toward the upper end of the adjustment.
:cool: :)

spicciani
03-24-2011, 07:29 PM
hummm but i'm not above .003"

blaine
03-24-2011, 07:52 PM
hummm but i'm not above .003"
Make sure your not mistaking "in" for "mm".
You stated that you were at .0025.Either way,if they are too noisy,you need to adjust them again.
:)

spicciani
03-24-2011, 08:00 PM
just took everything off again the .0025" will fit in the back (I hope intake) but not the .003" so i know im not to loose and the .004" will fit the front but not the .005". i guess ill just adjust them all to lower end?

Blaine i think we are not on the level isnt .0025" less then .003"

blaine
03-24-2011, 08:12 PM
just took everything off again the .0025" will fit in the back (I hope intake) but not the .003" so i know im not to loose and the .004" will fit the front but not the .005". i guess ill just adjust them all to lower end?

Blaine i think we are not on the level isnt .0025" less then .003"
Yes,your intake is at the back.Yes your measurements are correct. Sorry I was thinking .025, my math not great unless I have the gages in front of me. Maybe they just sound noisy after a good adjustment.Just recheck everything and you should be good to go.
:cool: :)

spicciani
03-24-2011, 08:15 PM
ok thanks blaine

spicciani
03-26-2011, 11:39 PM
I went ahead and adjusted them to the tightest spec and i am still getting alot of valve chatter even my wife says the bike sounds funny and that is a serious measure of possible weirdness

5th_bike
03-27-2011, 12:37 AM
Did you make sure the piston is at the top of the cylinder on the compression stroke ?

spicciani
03-27-2011, 11:46 AM
yep turned it till the line by the T was center in the viewer

spicciani
03-27-2011, 02:08 PM
after reading older posts on this site it seems like valve noise is normal after a adjustment

Water Warrior 2
03-27-2011, 02:23 PM
It makes no sense in my mind but as the valves wear they get tighter and quieter. A little noise is a good thing when it comes to valves. Perhaps what you are experiencing is the sound of properly adjusted valves. As humans with habit forming minds we tend to associate with engines in cars. In cars there are engine compartments, noise supression materials, and walls of metal/plastic. With a bike the engine is right in your face and up close. A really good reason to wear ear plugs.

cayuse
03-27-2011, 03:29 PM
Just to clarify 5th_bike's advise. It's possible to turn the crank until the "T" is in view and you will be in exactly the WRONG position. The 'T' indicates top-dead-centre (TDC) of the stroke, but on these 4-strokers you can be at TDC on the compression stroke (desired), OR TDC of the exhaust stroke (NOT desired).

I once spent an evening adjusting my valves 3 times because I adjusted them once (correctly) then turned the engine over a few times and checked them only to find they were WAY off. I just figured it was my own ineptness and adjusted them again. Then I realized I had not checked for compression. So, I turned it over again to the "T" mark WITH COMPRESSION and adjusted them again. On the bright side, I'm now very comfortable adjusting my valves; I can almost do it without looking. ;)

Now, I'm not sure what would happen if you actually adjusted them on the exhaust stroke. Maybe it would run with a lot of valve noise???? Maybe it wouldn't run at all....

5th_bike
03-27-2011, 10:42 PM
I once spent an evening adjusting my valves 3 times....
The last time I totally forgot to set the piston at the right point. The exhaust valves went fine (one of them was a little too tight) but at the intake it was like, wow they're really tight, am I glad I'm checking them now. :techy:

But I couldnt' get them right, and after a while I realized I was setting them way wrong because the valves were being pushed down on the intake part of the cycle... :oops: :cry:

mrgz250
07-20-2013, 04:56 PM
email me @ suzukix668@yahoo.com for help with ph # & Ill tell u excitly how to set the valves up properly. than it will sing to you

Water Warrior 2
07-20-2013, 07:10 PM
email me @ suzukix668@yahoo.com for help with ph # & Ill tell u excitly how to set the valves up properly. than it will sing to you
I think it would be best to go with OEM specs and procedures than to listen to a troll. Our forum members have posted very helpful How To's about the valve adjustment and never deviated from the specs. Call the troll at your own peril.

raul10141964
07-21-2013, 09:11 PM
ban mrgz250

Goose51683
07-21-2013, 11:14 PM
Just ignore him. It's not like he's a big deal.

Water Warrior 2
07-22-2013, 01:45 AM
:2tup: :2tup: bane mrgz250

steelpix
10-28-2013, 11:41 AM
I also have valve noise after trying my first valve adjustment yesterday.

So are you saying there are two positions when you set the mark to the "T"? I thought as long as you set it to the T mark you were fine. So there are two T mark positions, one for the compression stroke & one for not compression stroke?

blaine
10-28-2013, 03:39 PM
Yes.It easier it you ignore the "t" & just rotate the engine till the valves that you are adjusting are completely closed. (nose of cam pointing up).Then do the same for the other pair of valves.

:) ;)

plato1
11-09-2013, 07:54 AM
Check that "T" mark, but make sure as the others mention above, make sure you are on the correct part of the stroke. Also, an easy way is you can see your valves in the front move to that "up" position, this way you know if they are up the valve is closed. By the way, you can also stick a straw or something long enough in your spark plug hole and see where the piston is......Be careful you don't drop or break anything off into it....I was turning it when I had my paintbrush stick end in it (bad idea), and when the piston came up I heard it begin to crack, almost got it caught in there....I pulled it out and used something else real quick...lol

Oh and on the "T," mine has a big "T" and then right next to it, there is a line going straight across the chamber. The manual says line up the "T," but it's an older manual and a smaller "t" and no line after it. If you have a newer bike, like mine, it is really the LINE you want to line it up with.....I also spoke to the mechanics at Suzuki, and the guy told me he doesn't even rely on that line...Makes you wonder how accurate it is....But then again, mine is right....Also, after you adjust your valves, make sure you rotate, 720 degrees and check the measurements again........if you do 360, you will be on the wrong part of the stroke....

Hope this helps....