Transmission Fluid???

[Shammua]

How much fluid goes in the tranny? I don't see a fluid check and have no idea how much is even in there. The way it's shifting it sounds dry and I am afraid that if it's dry it will cause the gears to grind together and fry the clutch out.

Hope this all made sense and you can all help. If this question has already been answered I apologize in advance I seem to really suck at searches and finding stuff.

Thanks again!

[JWR]

The motor oil does it all.
That is why they are called wet clutches.
When did you change oil last, and what kind of oil??

These bikes like fresh oil.

[blaine]

Your engine,transmission,and clutch all run in the engine oil.If your engine is full of oil so is your transmission.
:roll: :cool:

[jonathan180iq]

This is also why you can't use energy conserving oils. Some of the additives in there mess with the clutch and can cause it to slip.

My personal favorite, for a smooth gear engagement and never had a problem with the clutch was Castrol Syntec 10-40.

Whatever oil you use, just check the API star starburst logo on the back and make sure it doesn't say "energy conserving".

[Shammua]

OK Oil is fresh and I am using what is recommended (I don't remember specificly). So my next question is this:

It seems to clunk into gear sometimes and getting it into neutral is iffy at best. Sometimes there is definate resistance when down shifting, other times it's like nothing is there, to the point I have my doubts if it really did downshift. So far it seems to always go into the needed gear it is just making me nervous that it's having problems. The last thing I want to happen is get broken down on the side of the road.

The question I have is simply, does this sound like something that has happened before and what may be the cause and/or fix?

BTW I have to say this seems to be one of the most patient forums I have ever had the pleasure to join. It appears there is more newbies or those without mechanical skills than those that do and yet you all patiently answer everyones questions and the flaming only seems to be among friends and not to the new guy (at least until they know they can. :P )

[alantf]

It seems to clunk into gear sometimes and getting it into neutral is iffy at best.

This is just one of the normal, quaint, idiosyncracies, of the geezer. :roll:

Just remember to slip into 1st before you stop. It's easier to get into neutral from there. :2tup:

[Water Warrior 2]

Patience is a requirement that is sometimes hard to learn and keep in mind. We were all newbies at one time and in my case dumber than a box of rocks. Here is something to keep in mind about the shifting. First and foremost the GZ is a price point bike and hasn't the precision and expensive engineering that you will find in other bikes. That said, it is a bullet proof smaller bike that will always serve you well if maintained and treated like a friend.
You may find that the tranny will shift differently due to oil temp(hot or cold),oil level and the length of time the oil has been in service. First start up of the day is probably the most noticeable. After starting the bike just pull in the clutch and let it out 3 or 4 time to limber up the clutch plates. Yes the tranny will clunk into gear. Now to confuse you a bit. None of the gears mesh and unmesh to give you a different ratio after a shift. You have a constant mesh transmission with 5 pair of gears always meshed together. When you shift there is a shift drum that you move which in turn selects the proper pair of chosen gears. Any grinding will be the shift drum trying to select a pair of gears. And no I don't understand much more than that either. It is really a different language to me.
As long as the clutch is adjusted correctly and you have the shifter adjusted for the best action with your foot you are golden. One other thing I noticed. Always wear the same boots. Different footwear and toe shape will make a noticeable difference to shifting smoothly and consistantly.

[JWR]

Different footwear and toe shape will make a noticeable difference to shifting smoothly and consistantly.

What WW is saying, is that the shifter can be adjusted to your foot size.

This makes a world of difference in ease of shifting.

[Shammua]

I do always wear the same footwear. And your explanation of the gears and shifting drum made perfect sense to me and explains a lot for me.

fair warning, soon enough you all will see me tearing this big apart for weekend projects or if it looks like we will have a week of rain I will be doing mods as I can. Paint first most likely.

I have an old Kawasaki that is good for abusing to get it right. Such as paint or tank changes or messing with wiring and so on. Yes yes I know different bikes means it wont be the same, but it will be the same basic principles that I am looking at. Best example for me is like with my Jeep and Truck. I did a bunch of mods on my Jeep and learned a lot about it. (Jeep had a 4cyl.) and when I am looking at things to do or change on my truck the knowledge base made it a lot easier even though the truck has a V10.

All right all it sounds like I should check oil level and if it needs changing. I will try to do that tonight and will let you all know if I have any changes, although it seems that it's just a quirk of the geezer....

[alantf]

it sounds like I should check oil level

I hope you already do this frequently. (through the sight glass) :whistle: ( :2tup: )

[blaine]

This is also why you can't use energy conserving oils. Some of the additives in there mess with the clutch and can cause it to slip.

My personal favorite, for a smooth gear engagement and never had a problem with the clutch was Castrol Syntec 10-40.


It must be a different formula here in Canada.The Castrol Syntec here has energy conserving on the label.They recently changed their formula & have a new name.Castrol "EDGE" and it too is energy conserving.I will only use motorcycle oil as the automotive oils are always changing.
:) :cool:

[jonathan180iq]

This is also why you can't use energy conserving oils. Some of the additives in there mess with the clutch and can cause it to slip.

My personal favorite, for a smooth gear engagement and never had a problem with the clutch was Castrol Syntec 10-40.


It must be a different formula here in Canada.The Castrol Syntec here has energy conserving on the label.They recently changed their formula & have a new name.Castrol "EDGE" and it too is energy conserving.I will only use motorcycle oil as the automotive oils are always changing.
:) :cool:

Fair enough.

It was the oil that I used in the oil change write-up and for the majority of the time that I had the bike and I loved it. There are people who simply do not want to use automotive oil in their motorcycles and really, as with any oil conversation, that's totally up to the individual.

So long as your bottle doesn't say energy conserving, you should be OK.