Clutch Adjustment

[Blitzburgh7sb]

My clutch does not engage until the lever is almost completely released. It did have slack in the cable and I adjusted it to within spec which makes it smoother on release. But the problem still remains as it is diffucult to keep from riding the clutch when it releases at the end. From what I have read there is no other clutch adjustments that I can make??? If so, what is the end game for fixing this? Clutch rebuild??

PS I know just enough to be dangerous, but enjoy learning how to fix things myself. With this forums help that is.

[blaine]

I sounds like you may have the clutch adjusted wrong.You should about 9/16th free play at the end of the lever.About the thickness of a nickel in at the pivot between the lever and the mount.
:cool: :)

[Blitzburgh7sb]

Yes, you were right Blaine. There was more slack that I thought was tension. Using the nickel helped me to "feel" the difference by putting the nickel in the gap and then contracting the lever.
Thanks. Although the adjustment is most of the way out now. I assume that this means the cable has stretched with age and will need replacing soon? Thanks for your help. :2tup:

[blaine]

Yes, you were right Blaine. There was more slack that I thought was tension. Using the nickel helped me to "feel" the difference by putting the nickel in the gap and then contracting the lever.
Thanks. Although the adjustment is most of the way out now. I assume that this means the cable has stretched with age and will need replacing soon? Thanks for your help. :2tup:

Glad I could help.You are right,the cable has stretched to the point of replacement.Just a word of caution,replace it now,as it will break without warning leaving you stranded and cursing.
:cuss: :)

[Blitzburgh7sb]

Thats good advice that I will heed. Too bad.... I just ordered new gaskets for the valve covers from Bike Bandit (one was leaking), shipping was almost as much as the 2 sets I bought for my two bikes. But six bucks shipping beats a breakdown any day.

[alantf]

I assume that this means the cable has stretched with age and will need replacing soon?

Don't forget that you can adjust the cable length at the engine end of it. If it's stretched, slacken the nut & bolt at the engine end, pull the excess cable through, & tighten up again. :2tup:

[Viirin]

My cable snapped on me a couple of days ago - if you get it replaced it probably won't bite at the same place it used to

[cayuse]

OK , I'm looking at my clutch cable at each end and I can see no signs of rust, fraying, kinking, or anything worn. Where do these things break, and is there any warning? I would have guessed they would break somewhere visible and so someone paying attention would see the signs coming. I'm riding a 5-year-old bike with 10000km under it. Should I just change it out? I don't want to get stuck out in the boonies.

[blaine]

They usually show wear at the pivot point of the clutch lever.If cable shows no signs of fraying,is clean & lubricated,it should be fine.If adjuster is most of the way out,it is time for replacement,as cable is stretched and can snap without warning.
:cool: :)

[alantf]

If adjuster is most of the way out,it is time for replacement,as cable is stretched and can snap without warning.


Mmmmmm, can't say as how I agree 100% with that. My Geezer has nearly twice as many miles (kilometers) as his & the clutch feels fine. Every new cable will stretch with wear, & I had to take up the slack in my clutch cable within a few months of buying the bike. If the previous owner never bothered doing this, then this might be how his problem occurred. I still maintain that if a visual check shows no problems, & the cable is well lubricated, taking up the slack at the engine end should be the first step. :)

[blaine]

If adjuster is most of the way out,it is time for replacement,as cable is stretched and can snap without warning.


Mmmmmm, can't say as how I agree 100% with that. My Geezer has nearly twice as many miles (kilometers) as his & the clutch feels fine. Every new cable will stretch with wear, & I had to take up the slack in my clutch cable within a few months of buying the bike. If the previous owner never bothered doing this, then this might be how his problem occurred. I still maintain that if a visual check shows no problems, & the cable is well lubricated, taking up the slack at the engine end should be the first step. :)

I agree with you 100%.But if cable is old and you need to keep adjusting,it's going to leave you on the road.I stated this,as some people might keep adjusting the cable,not realizing that the cable is ready to fail.
:cool: :)

[cayuse]

Mine might be stretched, I'll have another look tomorrow. OTOH, they're only $14 or so from Bikebandit so I'll pick one up with my next order. I'll just feel better on that Duffey Lake Loop ride this summer. Better safe than sorry!

[Water Warrior 2]

Mine might be stretched, I'll have another look tomorrow. OTOH, they're only $14 or so from Bikebandit so I'll pick one up with my next order. I'll just feel better on that Duffey Lake Loop ride this summer. Better safe than sorry!
Sounds like a plan. With all the dealers dropping out of site you would be more than hard pressed to find a new cable on the road.

[alantf]

Mine might be stretched, I'll have another look tomorrow. OTOH, they're only $14 or so from Bikebandit so I'll pick one up with my next order. I'll just feel better on that Duffey Lake Loop ride this summer. Better safe than sorry!

Yes, fit a new cable, then you know for certain that it's not going to snap in the near future. Just don't forget that the new one will stretch with use, & will probably need adjusting at the engine end within a few months. :2tup:

BTW, just want to edit & correct my earlier posting of how to adjust the clutch cable at the engine end (must've been thinking of another bike :blush: ) On the gz it's the outer that's adjusted. Near the clutch operating lever (on the engine), the threaded part of the outer is held in a bracket by two nuts. Slacken the nuts, move the outer, then tighten the nuts in their new position. :)

[Blitzburgh7sb]

My cable is not frayed or damaged in any way at the pivot point. I did adjust at the engine as alantf suggested. Thank you. I was then able to re-adjust at the pivot point so that the screw is not very far out. Dont know if this is the original cable or not. There is no more slack and shifts well with no initial jerk as it had before. Still seems to engage a little too far out but i no longer feel like I am riding the clutch. I do plan to buy a new one soon....better to plan ahead on a 15 dollar part then stuck on the side of the road losing my serenity. O_o