View Full Version : AGM Battery???
Hi all,
Here is my issue.... I use AGM (absorbed Glass Mat) batteries every chance I get and did so when I replaced the battery in my 2005 GZ250 - However I am blowing the main 20AMP fuze constantly. I recently took a very long 1200+ mile trip in very high heat with long constant hours of high throttle time and I naturally applied that as a reason for blowing the fuze....
However - I did a 10 mile ride this morning in 68deg temps and blew the fuze again so I am wondering if the battery is causing my over amperage? I know the bikes history because it came from family, and this was never an issue before.
Has anyone ever used an AGM battery in there GZ? or had negitave results with AGM batteries in thier motorcycle?
I will be tracing power cables later today looking for a short somewhere - but thought I would throw this out there first to see if anyone else has had this problem..
alantf
08-28-2010, 04:47 PM
Can't really see the battery being the problem. Voltage is voltage. Plus, any given appliance on the bike takes the same current, whatever type of battery you use. What causes fuses to blow is HIGH current, & this is usually caused by a short to earth. Check the wiring, also, if you've just swapped the battery, make sure that the terminals aren't touching the bike frame. :)
If it is a wiring problem, it MAY be due to vibration on the long ride causing the cables to rub through the insulation.
3-D Video
08-28-2010, 05:02 PM
Has anyone ever used an AGM battery in there GZ? or had negitave results with AGM batteries in thier motorcycle?
I can't see how it would be the battery. Even the charging voltage of an AGM is the same as for any standard battery.
A battery is like an electrical bank account. A fuse is like a limit on how much you can draw from that electrical bank account at any given timeā¦ Something's trying to pull more from you account than the limit that's been set (simplistic, I know. But clear, I hope). Maybe your limit (fuse) has been set too low. Maybe you've got accessories that your limit (fuse) hasn't been made aware of. But, more than likely, you've got some culprit trying to take out more than he's entitled too.
Are you tracing cables with an Ohm meter?
Easy Rider
08-28-2010, 05:38 PM
Has anyone ever used an AGM battery in there GZ? or had negitave results with AGM batteries in thier motorcycle?
Yes and no.
I believe that an AGM is standard issue on the GZ in the past 5 years or so. Mine had one.
They have a tiny bit less reserve capacity but will last a LOT longer if cared for just a little.
Generally the fuses limit the current going OUT of the battery and they don't care what is going on in the battery itself. I guess it is possible that a cell in the battery itself is shorting out, causing high charging current.........but I think that's a long shot and Mr Murphy is just playing with you.
In addition to checking cables and wires, you need to get a meter to check the charging voltage......and you might need it to find the short when you get to the point that the fuse blows every time you put in a new one.
alanmcorcoran
08-28-2010, 10:35 PM
Search the other posts. I think Sarris posted about likely places for shorts once before. I think it was where the harness might rub when turning the bars. (Or maybe I imagined it.)
Also, minor nitpick - it's spelled fuse. (Spelling is of value if you want future fuse troubleshooters to find your thread.)
Water Warrior 2
08-29-2010, 01:01 AM
Fuse, fuze, phuse, phuze...........now my head hertz. I kneed a tielinall. :lol:
LOL - alanmcorcoran - You obviously did not read my introduction in the "Introduce Yourself" section - I am a HORRIBLE speller - hehehe :)
Thanks for info guys - The bike is still stock so all appliances that would draw power are what the factory put on only - Yes I am going to use my FLUKE mutlimeter and I have also fashioned a makeshift AMP meter that I am going to temp install and watch as I ride today, and we will see where that gets me.
There is a spot where it is possible for the frame to rub the negative battery post but I discarded that as an issue since I am assuming the electrical system uses the frame as ground.
I will keep you all posted as to what I find out
Ride Safe - UH40
Sarris
08-29-2010, 10:26 AM
From my previous post
Re: No Lights, No sound, No NOTHING
On the left side of the steering head, there is a rectangular metal hoop that retains a main wiring harness. The turning of the handlebars continually flexes the harness at this location and it's a common area where the wiring insulation wears through and causes a short. It happened on mine and was a simple repair. I just taped up the worn insulation an installed a $3 automotive harness cover.
You can search the thread "No Lights, No sound, No NOTHING" for more info and photos.
:)
alantf
08-29-2010, 10:39 AM
I have also fashioned a makeshift AMP meter that I am going to temp install and watch as I ride today
Two things bother me...........
(1) If it's a short, it'll go from normal to fuse blow, then to zero in a fraction of a second - so you may miss it.
(2) If you're concentrating so hard on the ammeter, you're not concentrating on the road ahead, & that's when accidents happen.
Why not physically check ALL the wiring by sight & feel, before you do anything further? :2tup:
If you do go for a ride & the fuse blows, what's that gonna prove? That you've got a short circuit? We already suspect that. What it's NOT going to tell you is where the short IS. :cry:
Easy Rider
08-29-2010, 11:28 AM
I have also fashioned a makeshift AMP meter that I am going to temp install and watch as I ride today, and we will see where that gets me.
Hope you are planning on connecting that at the NEGATIVE post of the battery and not on the positive one.....or the main fuse leads. Running extra wires like that which must carry the full electrical load and connecting them to the positive side can be VERY dangerous......both to the bike and to you. :cry:
Also that could be a major problem when you start the bike.....as the starter draws something like 50 amps and might fry your "makeshift" meter if it's connected at the wrong place.
Agreed to all comments - however I have experience in this sort of thing :) with all these elitrizicalz kinds of stuffs (spelling meant to be humours ) :)
I am going to make a physical inspection 1st - the makeshift-semi-permanent - amp meter installation is to watch only when I hit a bump.
I was sure in the back of my mind that the AGM properties of the battery was not the issue, but had been second guessing myself - and the knowledge of the group vastly outweighs the knowlegde on the one !!! :)
One thing I find that may be a commonality is that when I ride on the back seat is when I seem to blow the fuse <------- correct spelling this time :) do I get a prize?? - but I have not paid attention enough to see if that is the trend yet...
Side note: This is a GREAT!! FORUM!! there is much going on and lots of participation -
-=UH40=-
alanmcorcoran
08-29-2010, 12:57 PM
UH, Usually I'm neither the nitpicker nor the spelling monitor (I am actually a champion speller, however, I am a sucky typist) but it occurred to me that I thought I'd read other threads re your topic. That's when it dawned on me that your would not be found unless someone in the thread spelled fuse right. So... You are welcome! Also, I congratulate myself for not having imagined Sarris's post. (My memory is also pretty sucky and I no longer trust it.)
Good luck with the troubleshoot - please post your progress, these sorts of things can sometimes be very instructive for the rest of us.
Alan - I was just teasing :) - as you guys get to know me better - you will hopefully catch my sense of humor - I try to be funny alot, even though I am or should say rather - have been told that I was not good at it - LOL
You will never find a post where I am ugly or offensive to anyone - Thats just not me - hehe
Ride Safe - UH40 -
Easy Rider
08-29-2010, 02:05 PM
I am going to make a physical inspection 1st - the makeshift-semi-permanent - amp meter installation is to watch only when I hit a bump.
One thing I find that may be a commonality is that when I ride on the back seat is when I seem to blow the fuse
I'd like to hear how you are going to connect said ammeter so that it doesn't "see" the starter current. If, for instance, you put it in place of the main fuse, then THE METER will become the fuse.......at a capacity probably a LOT higher than the fuse itself. While that might actually find the short when you see smoke and sparks.......it really isn't a good way to go about it !!! :shocked: :biggrin:
IIRC, there are some wires under the back seat......and running down both sides. If you haven't had the seat off lately, there might be a fairly obvious wire bunch that is pinched when the seat is in place. Also with your butt on the back seat, your hands are probably pushing on the bars differently...........????
alantf
08-29-2010, 03:40 PM
IIRC, there are some wires under the back seat......and running down both sides.
Yes, they go to the rear lights & indicators, but they're hidden (under the mudguard I think) otherwise they'd be on show when you ride without the rear seat. So I don't think that the rear seat could trap them. :2tup:
blaine
08-29-2010, 05:27 PM
Yes, they go to the rear lights & indicators, but they're hidden (under the mudguard I think) otherwise they'd be on show when you ride without the rear seat. So I don't think that the rear seat could trap them. :2tup:
They are under the chrome trim,tied to the frame rails
:2tup:
b1pig
10-15-2010, 11:50 PM
dumb question... well. not really. :poke2:
since i'm at work and have no access to the bike, what does the 20 amp fuse go to? the problem will be between the fuse and whatever it serves.
as stated before, whatever is causing the short can be intermittent enough that it only is active long enough to blow the fuse. an example would be.. if it were for the headlight, has the headlight been upgraded to a higher output?
if its a bulb, i'd replace it and take that as an opportunity to inspect the connections and wire harness.
most things work at a constant load. others dont.
also, remember that as current flow goes up, the wire heats up. heat will tend to slow current flow, so the draw can increase.... the vicious cycle begins... and blown fuse. the cause of this can be a burned/overheated plug or connector. saw this in several locations when rewiring a fire truck's emergency lighting a cpl of years ago.
HTH.
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