No Lights, No sound, No NOTHING

[Laydee Rose]

When out for a run this morning for an hour. After some time I noticed the bike was chugging along. Silly me. I forgot to take it off second and was starting off from a stop sign. I corrected that. I went into my driveway backwards and felt the bike turn off. It has new spark plugs, battery and was recently inspected. Anyone knows what could be the problem?? It wont come on at all. Nothing works

[New GZ250]

Did you hit the kill switch by accident?

[mrlmd1]

If nothing works, no lights, no horn, with the ignition on, check your battery and ground connections, something may have vibrated loose. And check your battery voltage while you are looking at the battery terminals. Then we can go from there.

[mrlmd1]

You don't have to post this in multiple places on the forum. We see it. It just makes it very much harder to respond to you and help you solve your problem.

[Easy Rider]

You don't have to post this in multiple places on the forum. We see it. It just makes it very much harder to respond to you and help you solve your problem.

And often causes several of us to say almost exactly the same thing !! :biggrin:

[Laydee Rose]

Hey mrlmd1,
Sorry aout the repeat posts. I appreciate your response as well as the others..I noticed you have a ninja 250. I just sold mine (09) to get the GZ250 and the comfort is better on the cruiser. How do you compare the bikes as far as comfort? Once I get my skills to where they should be, I would like to get another one. The 2011 model is HOT. I just wasnt comfortable on it for now.

[flippy]

Hello to all, Just got a gz250 for my son to start riding. It worked great, but now when he turns the key on, the headlight doesn't come on. If I jump across the solenoid, it will start. Replaced the solenoid and still doing the same thing. could it be the igintion switch? Needing some help.

[alantf]

Hi there.
First things first. Have you checked that the headlight bulb isn't blown?

Sorry, but you're not 100% clear. Is it just the headlight that doesn't come on, or are you having problems starting the engine by way of the starter button? Does the rear light come on? There are so many vaguaries in your report that you'll have to give us ALL the details before we can help you. :)

BTW, you say that you replaced the solenoid, but it still doesn't work. Why did you replace it without checking the old one, to see if the problem was there? I'm afraid (without trying to cause offence) that you don't seem to have a very logical approach to fault finding. Do you think you're actually up to solving the problem, or do you think you should leave it to someone with more experience? :)

[Easy Rider]

Needing some help.

Welcome.
It's usually better to start your own thread......than to tag onto the end of another one.

What you need is a wiring diagram, available here for download in the service manual, and a multi-meter to trace the voltage.......and someone who knows how to do that.

It could be as simple as a loose wire or a blown fuse.

If you continue to make wild guesses and replace parts, it could get to be VERY expensive. :cry:

[flippy]

Hello again.

Thank you for the replies. I guess I was just taking the shotgun approach to solving this problem. I don't know that much about bikes yet, but will probably be learning. Anyway, I replaced the solenoid becuase the same thing happened to my car and that was the problem. Two different things, I know.

When I turn the key on, no light come on at all. If I jump the solenoid, all the lights come on at that time and the bike works normally. Starter switch won't do anything.

Will download manual and work from it, but if there are other suggestions, I'm all ears.

Thank so far

[Water Warrior 2]

Well it appears you have eliminated the solenoid as the problem. I would suggest backtracking the wiring to the solenoid for a fault of some sort.

[Easy Rider]

When I turn the key on, no light come on at all. If I jump the solenoid, all the lights come on at that time and the bike works normally. Starter switch won't do anything.


This is a strange combination of symptoms; VERY strange.

Is all that happening with just the on-board battery ??

If so, I think you are looking at a bad connection somewhere; main cables, either end OR a loose connection inside the battery itself.

[alantf]

What I can't understand is how the lights come on when he shorts out the solenoid terminals. Surely, this particular circuit goes to the starter only. I agree that the coil circuit in the solenoid (interrupted by the starter switch), & the lights might come on with the ignition, but surely, the solenoid terminals that feed the starter, go ONLY to the starter. Or am I missing the point completely when he says he "jumped the solenoid"? :??:

EDIT :- I've just checked out the service manual. Sure enough, the starter circuit (solenoid) & the lighting circuit are completely separate. When you say that you "jumped the solenoid", do you mean that you ran a cable from the battery to the solenoid. If that's what you meant, it's starting to make sense. The fact that two separate circuits (lights & starter) went out, points to the main battery fuse failing. The starter takes 80 amps, so it looks like the main cable to the starter motor is still intact. Have you checked the fuses? I still can't understand the lights coming back on, but it could be that they're being fed straight from the charging system. If the ignition was "on", power would flow directly to the other circuits, as well as the battery.
So.....like I said. check for fuses, connections etc, because it's starting to look like a break between battery & everything else. A voltmeter is a MUST. (BTW, check the fuses by removing them, one by one, & testing across the fuses with your meter set to ohms. Don't just look at the fuses) :2tup:

[Easy Rider]

What I can't understand is how the lights come on when he shorts out the solenoid terminals.

Is there an echo in here ?? :biggrin:

It is called a "high resistance" open, meaning that it isn't completely open but there is enough extra resistance that the low current devices don't work........until you ZAP it with the high starter demand and then the partial open closes up.......for a while.

That's the only thing I can think of that makes any sense.

Then again, there may be a piece of the puzzle missing too.
Often some little fact that the OP doesn't think is important turns out to be the key.

[dentheman]

I am not electrictly inclined, but wonder if jumping the solenoid bypasses the ignition switch? If so, would the ignition switch (or a wire to it) be the problem?

[Easy Rider]

I am not electrictly inclined, but wonder if jumping the solenoid bypasses the ignition switch? If so, would the ignition switch (or a wire to it) be the problem?

Yes but not likely. If the switch was really bad.......it would then stop running when the jumper was removed. Something is intermittant; could well be the switch.

[Water Warrior 2]

Just for curiousity are you using the bike battery or another battery to jump the starter ?

[alantf]

Check the wiring diagrams (like I did) then tell me if my suggestion makes sense. As an electrician of many years (although admittedly not an auto electrician) my reading & understanding of the circuit diagrams (note that I use the Plural) seems to point to what I said - although I could be wrong. That's why I want a second opinion. :)

[alantf]

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If the 20 amp fuse is o.k. try switching the red kill switch on & off a few times. Sometimes, when mine won't start, that's all it takes. :) (kill switch = engine stop switch)

[flippy]

Hey everyone,
Did some checks and going with the side stand relay, since everything passes through it. found the manual and what I understand, it has to be it. Going to buy a new battery and side stand relay and see what happens. Still looking for help because I'm not sure what's going on.
If anyone can help, looking for it.
Thank you

[blaine]

Not sure what your problem is,but if you unplug the switch and put a jumper across the plug the bike should start normal if the switch is the problem.This may save you buying a new switch if it is not the problem.

:) :2tup:

[Water Warrior 2]

Flippy, listen up will ya. Quit throwing money at the bike until you know the problem. Give us more feedback to questions asked and we can probably save you a lot of money and grief. Spend some cash on a multimeter(cheap), a test light(cheap) and a Battery Tender. Do some testing of switches, fuses and whatever else the electrically minded members mention. Keep throwing new parts at the bike and you will soon have a renewed old bike that may not run anyway b/c you missed a poor ground or bad fuse. Not trying to be a hard a$$ but either you are deaf or a troll amusing himself. Exiting stage left.

[alantf]

Flippy ......... Have you tested/checked the red kill switch? If not, do it NOW! Like WW said, throwing money at the bike after making wild guesses is going to solve NOTHING. And PLEASE give us some more feedback on what tests (if any) you're doing, & what the results of those tests are! :sad:

BTW. Have you tested the 20 amp fuse - or have you decided not to bother. :whistle:

[Easy Rider]

Flippy, listen up will ya. Quit throwing money at the bike until you know the problem.

Like dogs on a squirrel...........I gotta pile on here too..........but experience tells me that some people just have NO concept of what it means to test to find the actual problem.

IF what you told us is really true, that is everything on the bike dead, it can NOT be caused only by the sidestand switch because I'm pretty sure that no bike ever made routes the headlight through that safety mechanism.

So......you need to make a choice here: Either stop asking for our help........or start paying attention to what we are suggesting. So far, about FOUR people seem to be suggesting essentially the same thing.......and you seem to be mostly ignoring all 4 of us. Pretty rude in my book.
:cry:

[flippy]

Hey All,
Thank you for all your input, and to you alantf!! Got a multimeter and followed the diagram and found that it was the side stand relay.
Really appreciate all your help. I may be in touch again, since I am still learning about this bike.

Have A very Merry Christmas !!!

[blaine]

Hey All,
Thank you for all your input, and to you alantf!! Got a multimeter and followed the diagram and found that it was the side stand relay.
Really appreciate all your help. I may be in touch again, since I am still learning about this bike.

Have A very Merry Christmas !!!
Good that you found the problem without replacing more parts unnecessarily.Thanks for posting your results for others to benefit.If you have any more problems,just ask.Merry Christmas!!
:rawk: :2tup:

[Water Warrior 2]

Good for you Flippy. I was afraid we might have scared you off. Sounds like a pretty cheap fix overall.

[Easy Rider]

Got a multimeter and followed the diagram and found that it was the side stand relay.

So......are you then telling us that a bad side stand relay can cause the whole electrical system to be dead.......including head and tail lights and turn signals, etc. ??????

If that's true, it would be valuable information........but from what I remember of the wiring diagram, I don't see how it's possible.

(Not that I really expect an answer; something about this thread is beginning to smell funny.) :shocked:

[alantf]

something about this thread is beginning to smell funny.) :shocked:
:plus1:

The manual says that with a faulty side stand switch :- The motor runs when the transmission is in neutral, but does not run when the transmission is in any other position, with the side stand up.

This means that if the side stand switch IS faulty, the motor will start, but as soon as it's put in gear, it will cut out.

I too can't see why this switch would cause the lights to fail. Also, he says side stand RELAY, not SWITCH. This is located under the seat (it's a combined turn signal/side stand relay) & I can't understand how this would fail. Also, for someone who professes to know nothing about electrics, to suddenly buy a meter & immediately find a faulty relay is, to say the least, suspicious. I don't think anyone with no knowledge of testing would understand what each wire did, when it went into the relay, never mind working out the wiring in a dual relay. :tdown:

Flippy, if we're wrong about you, will you tell us how you arrived at your conclusion, & what tests you performed. There may be something we missed, & if you're genuine, then please accept our apologies, but we need to prove that you're not playing around with us.

[alantf]

Well................ Flippy hasn't been back to us since December 16th .................... So - were we right or were we right? :whistle:

[blaine]

Well................ Flippy hasn't been back to us since December 16th .................... So - were we right or were we right? :whistle:

I think we were played!! :mad:

[Blitzburgh7sb]

If you guys were played that is too bad. I was reading this posting hoping to shed light on my recent experience with my 2003 gz. I had a hard braking this morning, gate across the road was in place when its not supposed to be at that time. Went around a turn and there it was... closed. Hit both brakes, locked up the front, released front and held the rear. Skidded and almost went sideways down til I released the rear. Got back upright just in time to bump the gate - thank god it was not locked or chained. Bike just pushed through at about 3 mph. Now the problem - continued on to work w/o issue. Left work and turned the key, nothing. Flicked the shutoff swith a couple times (read about that here), turned key a few times nothing. Checked battery for lose conntection- ok there. Read somewhere on here about taking it in and out of gear for an electrical problem then Moved bike back and forth. Tried key and bingo started right up. I am assuming its a lose connection somewhere but was looking for the most logical place to start after checking battery battery conncections and ground?

Any suggestions would be most welcome? I will post this in a new thead if needed.

[blaine]

Check the connections at the side stand switch,make sure they are clean and tight.If everything looks good, I would spray some contact cleaner in your switches.It might be one of them fluke things that never happen again.
:cool: :)

[Blitzburgh7sb]

Cleaned the side stand switch, was getting pretty gummy - that may be it. I will get some contact cleaner for them and give them a good shot. Hopefully a fluke thing like you said Blaine. I will post a reply if it repeats. Since I was getting the hands dirty anyway I went ahead and adjusted the rear brake linkage.

Thanks.

[bob]

I am trying to fix a friends GZ with this same problem. No neutral light or headlight and start switch does not start it. I can jump the start relay and it runs fine with all lighting working. Tried a new ignition switch but it did not fix the problem. Good fuses, battery and connections. What is next?