View Full Version : Fuel Cock leaking
Vansky
08-05-2010, 08:59 PM
Hey all,
Went to start up my bike tonight....I set it to prime, once i did, i heard a leaking sound and smell of gas. turned it to the on position and it stopped. when i looked more closely on the prime setting i saw gas coming out from a small hole on the upper right side (opposite side of where the switch is) of the fuel cock. Any idea why it's leaking and maybe some small part fell out? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Vansky
08-05-2010, 09:17 PM
Excuse me it was the Upper left corner where the gas was leaking.
Easy Rider
08-05-2010, 09:32 PM
I set it to prime, once i did, i heard a leaking sound and smell of gas. turned it to the on position and it stopped.
All I can tell you is: The prime setting only needs to be used when the bike has been sitting unused for a long time.....like 2 weeks or more.......
AND....
Leaking gas is a dangerous thing and you should not ride it until it's fixed. Probably should see a shop or start shopping for a new petcock; I don't think they are repairable but not sure of that.
blaine
08-05-2010, 09:34 PM
Excuse me it was the Upper left corner where the gas was leaking.
Move the lever back and forth a few times to see If It stops leaking,sometimes the o-rings get dry from no use.Why are you shifting petcock to prime to start?You should only need to use prime after sitting a long time,or ran out of fuel.
:??: :yes:
Vansky
08-05-2010, 09:52 PM
I had it on prime bc i haven't rode it in about a week and a half. but ill take the bike in since i gotta get the rear brakes changed.
mrlmd1
08-05-2010, 11:11 PM
You shouldn't need prime for the bike sitting for 10 days. Next time, just start it, will need some choke though.
Why do you think you need rear brakes? How many miles on the bike?
blaine
08-05-2010, 11:23 PM
You shouldn't need prime for the bike sitting for 10 days. Next time, just start it, will need some choke though.
Why do you think you need rear brakes? How many miles on the bike?
My bike had almost 45000 kms on it, still had original shoes in good condition.Pointer on rear hub indicates when you need new shoes.
:) :roll:
Vansky
08-06-2010, 11:41 AM
Now that I have sunlight to look at my bike it's the carburetor that is leaking. There is a hole on the upper left hand side.(looks like a small hose should be attached, but not sure) When i have the fuel cock on prime, that is when i see gas leaking from the carburetor hole, and when it's on the on position there is no leak.
Fuel cock is fine, no leak there.
Rear Brakes....making a horrible screaming sound when i tap the pedal....bought the bike used so no telling the last time they replaced them.
dentheman
08-06-2010, 01:17 PM
See the WARNING on pg 20 of the owners manual, when left in the PRI position..."fuel may overflow..." Due to the carb already being full. It sounds like it is working normally.
Sarris
08-06-2010, 02:32 PM
:plus1: to what Dentheman said. It's probably normal.
No one likes a leaky pet cock.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
Easy Rider
08-06-2010, 03:15 PM
See the WARNING on pg 20 of the owners manual, when left in the PRI position..."fuel may overflow..." Due to the carb already being full. It sounds like it is working normally.
No it's not. Fuel will only overflow if something is BROKEN and not working right.
The float and needle valve inside the carb will prevent that......if it is working correctly.
There is an overflow nipple/hose but it comes out the bottom; don't remember what is on the "upper left side".
Might need a picture to identify what it is for sure that he is talking about.......but there is no part of the carb that should be leaking gas when the petcock is turned to PRIME.
Vansky
08-06-2010, 04:51 PM
I will take a picture when i get home after work and post it, then maybe you all can give me some more insight. I'm going to take the bike in tomorrow, just wanted to give the shop a better idea what to look at when I take it in. Thanks
Easy Rider
08-06-2010, 05:25 PM
I'm going to take the bike in tomorrow, just wanted to give the shop a better idea what to look at when I take it in. Thanks
I think you need to be VERY sure that fuel is not leaking while the engine is running.......before you head out for the shop.
If, with the bike OFF, you can put it on PRIme and point out where the fuel leak is......your visit to the shop might be short and sweet......might.
dentheman
08-06-2010, 06:18 PM
Well, I still think that is the normal overflow drain (with the hose missing). See what the shop says, then let us know. If I am wrong I will stand corrected.
Easy Rider
08-06-2010, 06:55 PM
Well, I still think that is the normal overflow drain (with the hose missing).
You are missing the point.
Yes possible; likely even.......but there is nothing "normal" about it.
Unless the drain screw is open or something is broken, nothing should EVER come out there, if the bike is standing upright. It is a manual drain and emergency overflow, for if/when the float fails.
With the engine running, there is absolutely no functional difference between ON and PRIme. If the float and attached needle valve inside the carb are working correctly, you could leave it on PRIme all the time with no ill effect. Old bikes worked that way; ON was ON and many riders never turned them off.
Vansky
08-06-2010, 07:00 PM
I'll post the picture in about an hour and a half, so if people can get back on and take a look i'd appreacite it. Also it's not coming from the hose at the bottom of the carburetor, it's coming from the side..haha ill post the pic soon. Thanks all!
Vansky
08-06-2010, 08:18 PM
Alright, hope this picture helps. It will only leak when the cock fuel switch is on the prime setting, once it's set to on there is no leaking.
dentheman
08-07-2010, 12:45 AM
I would say there should be a hose connected. As it is it looks like it would allow dust to get into the carb. EDIT: Check http://oem.hyperformanceparts.com/hyper ... =309325666 (http://oem.hyperformanceparts.com/hyperformancepart/Suzuki_OEM/SuzukiMC.asp?Type=13&A=366&B=5&prand=309325666) items 46 and 47.
ncff07
08-07-2010, 01:35 AM
Yes there should be a hose connected to that. I went and looked on mine and took a pic I'll post. I traced the tube connected and it goes down and runs behind the battery then turns and runs down a few more inches. I'd ponder a guess its a run off for over flow gas.
http://s3.postimage.org/FmajJ.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=PqFmajJ)
alantf
08-07-2010, 05:23 AM
I'd ponder a guess its a run off for over flow gas.
I don't doubt you're right, but it still poses the problem as to why petrol should be overflowing on an "unbroken" (for want of a better word) carb. :??:
Easy Rider
08-07-2010, 11:04 AM
I'd ponder a guess its a run off for over flow gas.
No it is NOT supposed to be for that. It is WAY too high up on the carb body to be an "overflow".
Notice that the bowl where the gas sits is 2-3 inches lower, down at the bottom of the picture.
This may have something to do with the crankcase ventillation system; the fact that the hose is missing probably means that someone was screwing with it and went a little too far.......maybe accidentally drilled a hole there thinking that was where the idle mixture screw is ???
Anyhow, the gas stops when you switch it to ON because ON really is OFF when the engine is not running.
Have you looked closely with the engine running to see if there is any leakage......or if there is a slight vacume at the hole ???
[edit] There are some slight differences in carb's and plumbing from European models and North American models and California ones. Your specific one might never have had a hose there. Is there a brass screw inside that hole ?? It kind of looks like it. If so, maybe it is just loose.
Vansky
08-07-2010, 12:20 PM
I'm looking at the service manual now (Service Information 7-12) it is saying that hose is the carburetor air vent hose. So question...gas should not be coming out that end correct? The only hose it should come out is the hose on the very bottom of the carburetor?
Easy Rider
08-07-2010, 12:54 PM
The only hose it should come out is the hose on the very bottom of the carburetor?
AND.....here's the point that some don't seem to be getting.....it should not be coming out there either if everything is working as designed......no matter what switch or valve is in what position.
That is a manual drain, a vent and an EMERGENCY overflow (the bottom tube).
There definitely shouldn't be anything coming out the top vent where you observed the leak. Liquid gas should NEVER be present that high up on the carb body; NEVER. That point is above the throat going into the engine.
One more thing: Is it possible that the leak is somewhere above that and it just appears to be leaking there because that's where it drips off ???
Vansky
08-07-2010, 01:12 PM
I'm 99.9% sure i saw it coming out of that hole, but now it's in the shop. So hopefully i'll find out Monday or Tues what the problem is coming from.
P.S I don't want this shop ripping me off(first time going there)... it probably doesn't take more than 30-45 mins to replace rear brake shoe pads?
alantf
08-07-2010, 01:35 PM
P.S I don't want this shop ripping me off(first time going there)... it probably doesn't take more than 30-45 mins to replace rear brake shoe pads?
Not being picky :) but brake shoes & pads are two completely different things. Pads are what you get when the brakes squeeze against a disc (like the front brakes) Shoes are what you get when the brakes sqeeze against a drum (like the rear brakes). Again - not trying to sound like a know all, just trying to help you know the correct terms. :2tup:
BTW, just checked the carb on my European model, and it's definitely got a hose attached to the outlet that you're pointing to.
Easy Rider
08-07-2010, 04:33 PM
it probably doesn't take more than 30-45 mins to replace rear brake shoe pads?
That depends on whether you want it done right or not !!
I'd say a full hour.
Back wheel must come off:
Loosen chain/remove chain
Disconnect brake pedal link
Disconnect hub stop
Loosen and remove axle
Remove wheel
Inspect wheel bearings
Clean out dust and inspect drum
Do brakes......several steps there
Put it all back together
Re-adjust brakes and stop light switch
Doesn't seem like much until you actually have to DO it.
If they use a flat rate manual, it doesn't make any difference how long it takes.
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