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View Full Version : What to do when a bolt/stud and nut are spinning in harmony.

Canuck
07-25-2010, 12:39 PM
Hey guys

Been awhile since i posted here, and have been having a great spring/summer on the GZ across BC with no problems. and have surpassed the 50,000 kms mark!

I went over the bikes bolts and nuts and when i came between the top engine block and the bottom engine block i noticed a bit of black stuff seemingly coming from a bolt/nut that keeps the main gasket tight on the front.

this nut is 1 out of 6 bolt/nuts that seem to keep the 2 blocks together... there are 2 "spaces on the front and back midway between the top and bottom block and the one im speaking of is located in the front .


when i try to turn the nut to get it secure and torqued the bolt spins with it once it reaches a certain level of tightness

What am i to do ?

My thought was this...

Get the highest grade thread lock.... see if i can take the nut itself off and then use needle nose pliers to see if i can turn the bolt and get it to come out... hit it with threadlock and turn it back into the engine block... THEN see if i can turn the nut on, get it secure without having the bolt turn as well ...

Im wondering if i have broken the bolt on a previous attempt at tightening the bolt/nut or if i have somehow reversed the bolt from its position and just have to find away to turn it back without stripping the threads....

if this doesnt work i have the feelingthe GZ wouldnt pass a compression test because not allowing the bolt/nut to tighten to specified torque would leave a spot of concern on the front of the engine. However currently it has no problems performance wise.. im just thinking safety and prevention just in case something does happen...

know what i mean ?

thanks guys !
5th_bike
07-25-2010, 07:19 PM
Do you mean one of the bolts nr. 6 on this diagram:
http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=432058&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=2003&fveh=10117
?
Canuck
07-26-2010, 01:49 PM
It would be the lower line of number 1 but it doesn't specify a bolt or anything... if you have a gz you can see it but this diagram makes it hard..

it has a nut that screws upside down to secure the gasket ... im pretty sure

theres 2 of them ... my problem is the one facing the front tire..
blaine
07-26-2010, 05:24 PM
I would try and take the stud out and see if it if stripped,your loctite method might work or you may need to install a helicoil.I doubt that the stud is broken,most likely the threads in the aluminium are stripped.Good luck.

:rawk:
Canuck
07-27-2010, 01:30 PM
thanks blaine..

I was able to bring the bolt out almost all the way... the section of the engine below it blocks me from extracting it fully..

so like the guy at the shop says... Its a big job for a little problem..

loctite only works on the threads im sure ... so applying it to the smooth shaft of the bolt wont allow for proper traction which would allow me to secure the bolt too add pressure to the head gasket etc...
Canuck
07-27-2010, 01:51 PM
im sure as a result of this that a small amount of oil is "spurting" through the gasket above where this bolt is located..

which happens to be an area where oil leaks..

im not sure ive blown a gasket.. because the bike still runs quite well.... however i want this baby sealed up tight!

not sure itll happen without taking the engine out... but at 50,000 kms maybe its time for an engine rebuild??
bonehead
07-27-2010, 02:21 PM
So, is that around 30,000 miles? I hope this bike wont need a rebuild @ 30k.
Canuck
07-27-2010, 03:07 PM
me neither!

heres the specific part ... from the parts manual Page 3/52 parts 7 and 8

7 is my problem ... it is spinning freely and will not allow me to torque down the nut...

im gonna pull it out as far as it will go without hitting the engine/block.. cover it in threadlock... put it back in... wait for it to see and than see if i can torque the nut and put some pressure on the head gasket...
Sarris
07-27-2010, 03:23 PM
I kand of doubt thread locker is going to do the job because there more than likely aren't any threads left.

JB Weld perhaps? I'd damn sure be permanent.

:cool:
Canuck
07-27-2010, 03:36 PM
yeah i just went out and tinkered with it... its definetely broke or stripped... the stud that is..
Canuck
07-27-2010, 03:37 PM
whats the next step fellas?
Canuck
07-27-2010, 03:39 PM
its going to require the top half of the block come apart..

until then im going to deal with less compression and probably burn more oil and do harm to other components but ... im gonna have to figure out if its worth the money to get all that work done when the bike still runs at 90 percent acceleration but a definite loss of power and a "poot poot" sound when starting off ..goes away as you go up in speed and gone by top of second gear
Sarris
07-27-2010, 04:25 PM
Try unscrewing the stud as far as possible and pull it the rest of the way out with vice grips.

If you can get the stud out, reset it with JB weld. It will be permanent and a lot cheaper than any other method.

Heli-coils are effective if the hole is not hogged out stripped.

:cry: :??:
GTGZ
08-14-2010, 12:00 PM
its going to require the top half of the block come apart..

until then im going to deal with less compression and probably burn more oil and do harm to other components but ... im gonna have to figure out if its worth the money to get all that work done when the bike still runs at 90 percent acceleration but a definite loss of power and a "poot poot" sound when starting off ..goes away as you go up in speed and gone by top of second gear

If you keep running the engine with the "poot poot" sound you may end up cracking the cylinder head!

Take a look:
http://s207.photobucket.com/albums/bb55 ... yl%20Head/ (http://s207.photobucket.com/albums/bb55/stroknsmokngt/GZ250%20Cracked%20Cyl%20Head/)
Canuck
08-14-2010, 12:10 PM
*Sigh....*