View Full Version : Oil fill plug
OBryan
06-28-2010, 09:00 PM
Something to be careful on..I learned the hard way.
Make Sure you only tighten the oil filler plug hand tight.
I went to change the oil on mine and it would not budge.
I know I only hand tightened it..Well I think I know..*lol*
I grabbed an adjustable wrench thinking no problem
Adjusted it down to where it fit over the ridge to loosen it up.
I Cranked and the whole ridge broke right off.
Easy Rider
06-28-2010, 09:40 PM
I Cranked and the whole ridge broke right off.
AND......there HAS to be more to the story ?? :popcorn:
Some thoughts:
Adjustable wrenches are for emergencys ONLY....like when you really need a hammer and can't find one. :roll:
For some wierd reason, the thickness of the head on the oil plug is only about half a normal bolt.
To successfully get it out, you need a 6 point socket that is NOT tapered......or with the taper ground off. A box wrench might work but it might not get a good enough grip and just cause more damage.
It helps some if you actually use the brass washer that Zuki recommends.......and like you said, don't over-tighten it. It's been discussed here before but a reminder every so often is probably good.
Water Warrior 2
06-28-2010, 09:49 PM
Yup, stuff happens. I try to make them snug and hope to get them lose when needed. The O-ring on the fill plug seems to take a set and drop anchor. Maybe a slight coating of oil on the O-ring would help. It is comparable to the rubber gasket on a spin on oil filter with the heating and cooling effect of the engine.
Easy...........read again from the beginning. It is the oil FILL plug.
OBryan
06-28-2010, 10:15 PM
Thanks WW.. I put some anti sieze on the replacement filler plug.
Will see how that works..
I'm thinking it just vibrated itself tigher.
Water Warrior 2
06-28-2010, 10:47 PM
Thanks WW.. I put some anti sieze on the replacement filler plug.
Will see how that works..
I'm thinking it just vibrated itself tigher.
I would be a bit leary of anti-seize. Try a coating of grease or oil. The rubber oil filler plug may not take well to anti-seize.
Easy Rider
06-29-2010, 10:14 AM
It is the oil FILL plug.
OH, crap. :cry:
Yep, it's plastic and actually a good place to use an adjustable wrench......for attempted loosening.
blaine
07-06-2010, 12:07 AM
[quote="Water Warrior":2bt1gsb0]It is the oil FILL plug.
OH, crap. :cry:
Yep, it's plastic and actually a good place to use an adjustable wrench......for attempted loosening.[/quote:2bt1gsb0]
My oil fill plug is made of aluminum with a o-ring as most others are.
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GZ Jess
07-06-2010, 08:14 AM
My fill plug is aluminum as well and stuck. I tried briefly to get it loose and so did my husband but neither of us could budge it. My filter just came in and I really need to do a change. Does anyone think some sort of WD40 (or other recommended product) around the outside (and hopefully soaked into the threads) would help? My other thought is to take it to the dealership for this oil change but it's like what, a zillion $ markup from the cost of doing it yourself. LOL
3-D Video
07-06-2010, 08:22 AM
I replaced a piston on a G/F's '71 VW camper… she was going up hill on a hot day along the PCH. I towed her back to SF, fixed the engine, installed an a oil temp gauge and an extra oil cooler. The following summer she drove to FL, no problems. Had to keep an eye on the gauge, though.
It's been hanging around 40º in Portugal (100ºF) which is where I drive. So, my point? I got an oil temp gauge which screws onto the oil fill plug.
I figure for about $45, it's a pretty good investment for both my peace of mind and for the bike… and, it ain't plastic :)
blaine
07-06-2010, 08:44 AM
My fill plug is aluminum as well and stuck. I tried briefly to get it loose and so did my husband but neither of us could budge it. My filter just came in and I really need to do a change. Does anyone think some sort of WD40 (or other recommended product) around the outside (and hopefully soaked into the threads) would help? My other thought is to take it to the dealership for this oil change but it's like what, a zillion $ markup from the cost of doing it yourself. LOL
Trying tapping with a non marring hammer or a regular hammer and small piece of wood.This is a problem I have never had in almost 4 years.
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Just in case:Left Loose-Right tight. :rawk: :2tup:
3-D Video
07-06-2010, 08:50 AM
Geeze, Jess :(
Have you tried using a strap wrench? No many people have those, but a slip-joint plier or a small pipe wrench might be a second best. Or, maybe locking on a vise grip and beating it? Heating it up might loosen it enough while you're trying to get it off with a wrench or pliers.
alantf
07-06-2010, 09:06 AM
Have you tried using a strap wrench?
I think you're looking at the wrong part! Check your filler plug (at the top of the sump) then reassess the problem. :roll:
Easy Rider
07-06-2010, 09:43 AM
My fill plug is aluminum as well and stuck.
Does anyone think some sort of WD40 (or other recommended product) around the outside (and hopefully soaked into the threads) would help?
I still think that a SMALL adjustable wrench would be an appropriate tool for the job. I think breaking off the whole top tab is an unusual situation; it might have been cracked from previoius attempts at getting it loose.
WD40 really is not good for getting down into stuck threads. A light penetrating oil made for that purpose is much better. If it is stuck tight when the engine is HOT (ready for an oil drain), try it again when things are cold.
While some anti-sieze compound might be helpful......don't use too much; it might not have a good effect on engine parts if it gets in the crankcase. Best bet is don't over-tighten it......and be sure that any gaskets or O-rings are properly in place.
3-D Video
07-06-2010, 09:45 AM
I'm thinking, Part No. 09259-20007, "Plug (20x10)"… reassessing...
You're right, Alan! Not much chance of getting a strap wrench (or anything else) around something that slim :(
If it's plastic, you might try using a hacksaw, or really hot screwdriver blade, making a slot in the top and using that to get some leverage on to it?
alantf
07-06-2010, 09:57 AM
It's aluminium. My best guess is to try a cold chisel (that's the name of the tool, not a chisel that's cold :) ) on the edge of the plug. A few sharp taps MAY get it moving enough to get some grips round the edge. If it's already snapped off, you're not going to damage it any further.
blaine
07-06-2010, 10:05 AM
Geeze, Jess :(
. Or, maybe locking on a vise grip and beating it? .
Just beat the whole clutch cover off with a slege hammer. :poke2:
alantf
07-06-2010, 10:06 AM
WD40 really is not good for getting down into stuck threads. A light penetrating oil made for that purpose is much better.
I think the main problem (in this case) is that the rubber sealing ring may be squashed so firmly that whatever you use won't be able to get past it, to the threads. Do you think it possible that you could get something really thin (such as a craft knife) into the gap, to attack the rubber?
alantf
07-06-2010, 10:12 AM
If it's already snapped off, you're not going to damage it any further.
Or was that someone else's quote? :??: About it being snapped off, I mean.
3-D Video
07-06-2010, 10:35 AM
Geeze, Jess :(
. Or, maybe locking on a vise grip and beating it? .
Just beat the whole clutch cover off with a slege hammer. :poke2:
Brute force and ignorance have always... well, nearly always... served me well!
You might want to check out your clutch, while you're in there, GZ Jess :)
GZ Jess
07-06-2010, 03:51 PM
Thanks everyone. I honestly don't remember if it was before or after a ride that I tried, so I will play some more and see what happens. I have a rubber mallet that maybe I could get the right size wood piece against it and tap it. The stupid "fin" that you grab hold of isn't that easy to get a good grip on. And yes, I always recite Lefty Loosey Righty Tighty LOL.
Jess
Water Warrior 2
07-06-2010, 07:30 PM
Just a thought that might work. If you have enough room and filler plug left for the "Easy" crescent wrench get hubby to apply some force to it while you tap the plug downwards with a hammer and stick, punch or whatever to dislodge the darn thing. It was probably screwed in so tight the O-ring is compressed and won't let go. The O-ring was also probably wiped clean of any oil film for lubrication to allow it to turn when needed.
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