Front brake dragging

[Pete7874]

It seems like the front brake is dragging a little... when in neutral and I push the bike, I can distinctly hear hissing/metallic rubbing noise from the front... sounds like the brake is not fully release. Is there some adjustment on the caliper that can be made to push the pads a little away from the disc or is this normal?

I haven't been able to lift the front wheel yet to see how bad it really is. I'd need to find a way to elevate the front end to do this...

[alantf]

I can distinctly hear hissing/metallic rubbing noise from the front

Without seeing/hearing, it sounds like your pads are ready for replacement. Better to be safe than sorry, so before you ride again, check them for wear, or let the shop check them. There is NO adjustment on them. Remember, you'll probably get MUCH less mileage out of a set of brake pads on the GZ than you would from your car. I can't really think of any other reason for the "metallic rubbing noise" than pads that are worn down to the metal. If you continue riding (and they are worn down) two NASTY things will happen (1) Your braking will be MUCH less efficient (2) You'll damage the brake disc.

[Easy Rider]

or is this normal?

[edit] Yea.....what alan said !! :biggrin:

No, there is no adjustment and it is normal for the pads to touch the rotor very lightly.

BUT since you noticed it, you should have the pads checked; they may need to be replaced.
I think my originals lasted around 5K miles.

For light duty wheel/chain maintenance, I have found that a scissor jack from the junk yard works good. You can use the other wheel, side stand and scissor jack (properly positioned) to get one wheel at a time off the ground. That is NOT a good way to remove the wheels, however.

[Pete7874]

You can use the other wheel, side stand and scissor jack (properly positioned)
Thanks guys. Where would I position the jack exactly? I have a 2.25 ton Craftsman jack that I use on my car.

Visually, the pads still have some life in them. 4300 miles right now.

The sound is just light rubbing, not screeching or anything... a little muffled.

[Sarris]

Disk brake pads are always in contact with the rotor and you will hear a muffled rubbing. That is normal.

There should be no metallic grinding or loud noises. It sounds like your noise is more than likely normal.

You might try hosing them out, as sometimes they'll pick up some grit and get a little louder.

Just be careful because they won't work well on the first couple of stops until they dry out.

:)

[dhgeyer]

If the pads are actually worn through, you'll hear a very bad sound when the brakes are applied when riding. If it's just a slight rubbing when the engine is off and you push the bike, that's absolutely normal. The pads are always in contact with the disk. Sometimes, like Sarris says, they'll screech almost like they need replacement just from some grit getting in there. It's so easy to check the pad thickness, there's no reason not to look up how to do it, and put your mind at ease. You don't have to turn any wrenches. You just have to know what to look for, and it's a visual check.

[edit] I just tried checking mine, and found that it is much easier to see the outside pad with a small flashlight and a hand held mirror. It can be done.

[Easy Rider]

Where would I position the jack exactly?

You position the jack on the frame, near to the wheel you want to lift.
In this case, near the front......so that it forms a triangle with the side stand and the rear wheel.
The pad on your car jack might be too big to fit where you need it to go.
Don't lift any higher than needed; the higher you go, the more unstable it gets.

Good suggestion about washing out the pads too.

[alantf]

I remember once getting grit in the pads. That made a scuffing sound. When I got the bike into the garage to take the piston apart, I had to reverse it to get it under the fluorescent light. Purely by luck, out popped the grit (or I'm assuming it did, because the grating disappeared) Try Pushing the bike back, & see if it works for you. :2tup:

[5th_bike]

Metallic rubbing, that sounds like you need new pads. Mine lasted about 6,800 miles. I had never touched brake pads, but it's not very hard to change them. I flushed the brake fluid at the same time.

If they have worn unevenly, you may also need a little silicone grease on the guide pins - read all about it here: http://www.gz250bike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=551&p=36774#p36774

[Pete7874]

After a second more detailed inspection, it does look like my pads are just about shot. Will be placing an order for new ones now... should I stick with OEM ones or is there something better aftermarket?

Thanks!

[bonehead]

After a second more detailed inspection, it does look like my pads are just about shot. Will be placing an order for new ones now... should I stick with OEM ones or is there something better aftermarket?

Thanks!
Most on line parts houses will be cheaper than going to the dealers.

[5th_bike]

should I stick with OEM ones or is there something better aftermarket?

Regarding OEM, AFAIK Suzuki doesn't even make brake pads themselves... online they were about $30, but my dealer charged $31 and some change. A better deal than (online + shipping).

[Purpledrank]

Mine makes the same noise while I'm riding in gear without the brakes being engaged. It sounds like metal scraping/rubbing. I only have 2280 miles on mine which is why I ask. Do you guys think the pads could be bad after 2280 miles?

[blaine]

Mine makes the same noise while I'm riding in gear without the brakes being engaged. It sounds like metal scraping/rubbing. I only have 2280 miles on mine which is why I ask. Do you guys think the pads could be bad after 2280 miles?

Brake pads should last longer than 2300 miles.You can check if pads are wore by visual inspection.If pads are wore out I would be looking for a sticking caliber,or caliber not sliding on the pins.

:itsokay:

[5th_bike]

... sounds like metal scraping/rubbing. I only have 2280 miles on mine ...
They could be worn already after 2280 miles, for instance if you do almost exclusively city driving, from traffic light to traffic light. Especially when it's hilly. I remember alantf also saying his pads don't last long because of a long downhill with a low speed limit around where he lives.

The metal scraping is a sure sign of a worn pad. If they have worn unevenly, check the link to a thread in my previous post.

[Purpledrank]

Well, I'm not sure what worn motorcycle pads should look like...here is a picture of mine. Looks good?

http://i33.tinypic.com/mkjh36.jpg

[Easy Rider]

Well, I'm not sure what worn motorcycle pads should look like...here is a picture of mine. Looks good?

Wow.....good pic.....but no, I don't think they look good at all.

Notice the metal tabs that holds the actual pad in place.
The pads should be thicker than those tabs.....at the very least.

I think that's a good example of pads that are just about shot.....as the metal tabs will be rubbing the rotor anytime now.

[5th_bike]

Well, you can see the shim, the really thin metal plate, save those (left and right) for the next set of pads. Then, the thicker metal plate behind it is the metal back plate of the brake pad. The actual brake pad you can't see here, it is behind it, against the rotor. Because the seems to be a little distance between the metal plate and the rotor, this one looks like there is just a little bit left. New brake pads have about 3-4 mm (1/8"). How does the other side look like ?

You will get the metal grind sound if either brake pad is worn on the front or back. This one could be worn at the back.

[blaine]

No.Your pads are worn out.Notice the metal tabs touching the rotor,that is the noise you are hearing.If you look closely you can see metal dust on the leading edge of the pad.
:cool: :roll:

[Purpledrank]

Alright. Thanks guys! I will be doing both back and front brakes next weekend. I figured I'd do both just to be safe. I hear noise from both ends anyway.

[Easy Rider]

Alright. Thanks guys! I will be doing both back and front brakes next weekend. I figured I'd do both just to be safe. I hear noise from both ends anyway.

The rears have an indicator to tell you when they need to be changed. Likely they aren't worn out yet and are a LOT more of a pain to do. Not recommended if you don't have to.

Have you done brakes before ??

[Purpledrank]

Alright. Thanks guys! I will be doing both back and front brakes next weekend. I figured I'd do both just to be safe. I hear noise from both ends anyway.

The rears have an indicator to tell you when they need to be changed. Likely they aren't worn out yet and are a LOT more of a pain to do. Not recommended if you don't have to.

Have you done brakes before ??

Only on cars. I'm gonna take them to a nearby shop. Once I can locate the indicator for the rears, I will determine if they need to be done, Didn't realize there was an indicator. :P

[dentheman]

Owners manual pg 56 shows rear brake wear indicator and describes how to check.

[Purpledrank]

So I got my brakes done today, finally. Here is a pic of the old one...

http://i34.tinypic.com/2e2pjea.jpg

Metal to metal. The guy said the rotors were fine, so I should be okay.

[blaine]

Yes,it looks like you caught them in time to save any damage to the rotor.I am assuming your rear brakes are fine?

:2tup: :cool:

[5th_bike]

So I got my brakes done today, finally. Here is a pic of the old one...
Metal to metal. The guy said the rotors were fine, so I should be okay.

Mine looked exactly like that. The diagonal wear is an indication that one of the two bars that both should enable left/right movement of the brake body, is stuck. Best thing is to lubricate them both, with a little silicone grease, to make them slide left/right in their rubber boots.

(edit) oops I already said something like that here, but better twice than not, I'll leave it as is.

[PimpS]

Hello!

I would like you to ask this: I noticed on my bike that when i'm turning bike to left (going forward or backward) the front brake starts to squeel a bit and i also sense some breaking going on. Is it possible, that the lever is set to tight? I wonder that, cause when i pulled my handlebar (month ago) more back and i turned to left, the throttle was getting bigger (although i haven't noticed any movement in the place below the seat, on the right side.
Am i having wiring tension problem?

thanks guys!

PimpS

[alantf]

Hello!

Is it possible, that the lever is set to tight? I wonder that, cause when i pulled my handlebar (month ago) more back and i turned to left, the throttle was getting bigger (although i haven't noticed any movement in the place below the seat, on the right side.


Not really. You may have a throttle problem, because that is cable operated, and you may have put tension on it, but the front brake is hydraulic, so it's a tube down which brake fluid is forced when you squeeze the brake lever. So long as it's firmly attached at both ends it shouldn't pose a problem. The problem seems more likely to be that the guide pins for the brake pads are sticking, and need lubricating.

[Water Warrior 2]

Hello!

Is it possible, that the lever is set to tight? I wonder that, cause when i pulled my handlebar (month ago) more back and i turned to left, the throttle was getting bigger (although i haven't noticed any movement in the place below the seat, on the right side.


Not really. You may have a throttle problem, because that is cable operated, and you may have put tension on it, but the front brake is hydraulic, so it's a tube down which brake fluid is forced when you squeeze the brake lever. So long as it's firmly attached at both ends it shouldn't pose a problem. The problem seems more likely to be that the guide pins for the brake pads are sticking, and need lubricating.
Will add my 2 cents worth. The front brake pads will always be in contact with the disc. This is the design of a disc brake system. You may feel a small amount of resistance from the brake when doing some human powered moving of the bike. Also be aware that the disc will try to oxidize overnight and make a little noise initially in some climates. The first couple stops will burn off the oxidation.

[PimpS]

Oh, thanks guys, I started to make my list for mechanic (what to change, what to check, adjust...) and i got a bit carried away. I got scared to have some wiring problem (first throttle, now brake...) and all those wires.... Geeez, just a too much... thank you Alan and waterwarrior, i hope we could sat down once and have a beer or too!
BTW: I cleaned and lubed my chain today... It was a whole lotta work for newbie, pardon, squid!!! ;)

[Water Warrior 2]

PimpS, these bikes are actually pretty simple to maintain and a little care and attention goes a long way to keeping it reliable and happy. The more experience you get the easier it gets whether riding or wrenching.

[Road_Clam]

After a second more detailed inspection, it does look like my pads are just about shot. Will be placing an order for new ones now... should I stick with OEM ones or is there something better aftermarket?

Thanks!

I just replaced the pads on my wife's GZ, and I used EBC aftermarket pads. Been using EBC's for many years with excellent results. EBC p/n FA106 is for the front pads.

One further comment about your "dragging" front brakes. When you apply brake pressure, the pads obviously squeeze the rotor, but also when you relese the lever your pads are supposed to retract a very slight amount. You are not supposed to "feel" any brake drag. If you do in fact feel some drag you possibly have a brake caliper that is "sticking". This usually is from water corrosion that's inside the caliper piston bores. Moisture intrusion and corrosion in older m/c brake systems is a common problem. I personally flush my brake fluid every 5 years (or right after a aquire a bike). My wifes GZ is a 2000, andI guarantee the front brake fluid is original, and definately needed to be flushed.