oil type, weight, and filter???

[beccagz250]

i am going to be doing a service on my gz that i just bought, and was wondering if a motorcycle specific oil is needed for the engine, or if just regular old 10w40 that you buy at the store for cars is ok?? also, any preferences with brands, or using a weight other than 10w40? also is there a cross reference number for a purolator or other aftermarket filter that can be used on the bike that i may be able to find at the local parts store, instead of overpaying at the dealer??

any input with your opinion on this matter would be greatly appreciated. :)

[blaine]

Any 10-40 oil as long as it does not have any friction modifiers in it.SHELL ROTOLLA is very good oil to use.A HIFLO-FILTRO HF-136 is a good oil filter and much cheaper than stock.I use only motorcycle specific synthetic 10-40 oil.

[beccagz250]

right, rotella is typically a 15w40, for diesels.... is that what is commonly used in these bikes??

[Easy Rider]

Any 10-40 oil as long as it does not have any friction modifiers in it.

That WAS true for a long time......and in many cases, might still be true.....but now it is somewhat of a gamble because......the latest SL/SM standard for car oil allows some friction modifiers to be added WITHOUT mentioning that on the label. Point IS that it might not be possible for you to know whether there is any in there or not.

That problem does not exist (now) with the diesel oils mentioned.

[beccagz250]

ok, that said.... would it be a good idea to use a motorcycle oil 10w40??? just to be on the safe side??? btw, i appreciate all the input!

[blaine]

Yes.That way there is no question .

[Easy Rider]

ok, that said.... would it be a good idea to use a motorcycle oil 10w40??? just to be on the safe side??? btw, i appreciate all the input!

Yes, that IS what I was trying to say. Never quite got there though, did I ?? :roll:

If you live in a VERY hot climate, the 20W50 would be OK.
If it is never very hot, the 10W30 would be OK too.

Do you have an owners manual ?
There is one on here available for download.

[patrick_777]

Do you have an owners manual ?
There is one on here available for download.

:plus1:

[Water Warrior 2]

right, rotella is typically a 15w40, for diesels.... is that what is commonly used in these bikes??
15w40 Rotella in both our bikes. Cheap, easy to find and has been certified for bike engines. Win win and win.

[beccagz250]

I did download the manual, and i read that it required api sg or sf 10w40, but i was just trying to get some personal opinions on what everyone does, and what works best, because sometimes people find things that work better than what is suggested in the manual. Thanks for all your input!

[JWR]

right, rotella is typically a 15w40, for diesels.... is that what is commonly used in these bikes??
15w40 Rotella in both our bikes. Cheap, easy to find and has been certified for bike engines. Win win and win.


This.

[Easy Rider]

I did download the manual, and i read that it required api sg or sf 10w40,

because sometimes people find things that work better than what is suggested in the manual.

That sg/sf is a MIMINUM requirement....and the 10W40 is a general recommendation that covers most riding conditions.

Sometimes people crow about things that "work better" when they really don't have a clue.
You need to filter the advice you get carefully. :tup:

[patrick_777]

right, rotella is typically a 15w40, for diesels.... is that what is commonly used in these bikes??
15w40 Rotella in both our bikes. Cheap, easy to find and has been certified for bike engines. Win win and win.

This.

:plus1:

I use the full-synthetic about every other oil change...only because I'm cheap.

[GZ250]

1st- this post should be in general. no T-shooting in this thread.

2nd- second question you might ask about the type of gas so go with the cheapest one it is ok with this bike, people and mechanics do recommend to use the high grade once in a while to get the throat (carburetor) or (carb) clear. Use gas additive same as we use in cars or (chem 12) for the same purpose.

3rd- personally i think over doing has no additional benefit so do not worry about going cheap. full synthetic or high octane won't make GZ a sprinter and you won't get 82mpg if yours cant achieve it.

4th- this place is full of wealth. people from all walks of life and places are here.

[ncff07]

One of the first things I did when I got my bike was change the oil and filter. Got Suzuki motorcycle oil cause Im not taking any chances. It was $6 something a quart for it and synthetic was $12 a quart. One thing Id recommend, is checking the 2 orings while they are still in the plastic. I took the plug out and let it drain while i changed the filter and when i opened the new cover oring bag i noticed some idiot had stapled the 2 oring bags together and the staple went THROUGH the large oring.

[Water Warrior 2]

One of the first things I did when I got my bike was change the oil and filter. Got Suzuki motorcycle oil cause Im not taking any chances. It was $6 something a quart for it and synthetic was $12 a quart. One thing Id recommend, is checking the 2 orings while they are still in the plastic. I took the plug out and let it drain while i changed the filter and when i opened the new cover oring bag i noticed some idiot had stapled the 2 oring bags together and the staple went THROUGH the large oring.
That is when you say HO-HUM and use the old O-ring.

[blaine]

One of the first things I did when I got my bike was change the oil and filter. Got Suzuki motorcycle oil cause Im not taking any chances. It was $6 something a quart for it and synthetic was $12 a quart. One thing Id recommend, is checking the 2 orings while they are still in the plastic. I took the plug out and let it drain while i changed the filter and when i opened the new cover oring bag i noticed some idiot had stapled the 2 oring bags together and the staple went THROUGH the large oring.
That is when you say HO-HUM and use the old O-ring.

I have had my G.Z. three years,30000 kms.I change my oil every 5000 kms,never once have I changed the o-rings.I have never had a leak.The same for the o-rings on the valve inspection covers.So changing o-rings every 2ND oil change should not be a problem.I make sure to put a little clean oil on o-ring when assembling.

[alantf]

If you live in a VERY hot climate, the 20W50 would be OK.


Not making any comment on this statement, just saying that the bike shop that always does my oil change (labour is so cheap that he does the full service, including oil & filter for the equivalent of around $30) uses 10/40.

edit:- $30 is the labour. With parts it's $60.

[music man]

Of course they use 10/40 when the bike shop changes it, that is what is called for on the bike, a good shop won't deviate from that unless you ask them to, and some of them still won't.

[Easy Rider]

If you live in a VERY hot climate, the 20W50 would be OK.


Not making any comment on this statement,

I didn't say I was recommending it, just that it would be all right IF someone wanted to do that.

[beccagz250]

Well, its all done now! my bf helped me and we changed the oil and filter, spark plug, and cleaned and lubed the chain... i ended up going with catrol actevo synthetic blend 10w40 motorcycle oil, and a dealer oil filter... now all thats left is I have to get it registered this week!!! can't wait!