Signal lights

[fairweatherrider]

I'm having a little trouble with my signal lights. Before I ride I check the lights and I have to continuously push the switch that shuts them off before they finally will work. I tried spraying contact cleaner in the assembly, when the key is off of course, but that didn't work.
I'm also wondering, is there a replacement signal light relay or assembly that will automatically turn the lights OFF after a turn is made. I forget many times to push in the switch to shut them off and I think that's a littttttle dangerous.

[blaine]

Sounds like you may need a new switch.Some people hook up a buzzer as a reminder to shut off siginal lights.There is lots of info on here on hook up of buzzer.Do a quick search. :2tup:

[fairweatherrider]

You might be right on the needing a new switch. It just seems funny though they work fine once they start working until I turn off the engine. Then I go through the procedure again. I'll check on the posts for more info. Thanks for the reply. A buzzer though????? I'm not sure about that with the engine noise and other traffic noise. I was thinking or hoping that Suzuki had come out with a new switch or relay that shuts them off. Do you know if the 2010 has a new system? I might just call Suzuki and find out.

[blaine]

You might be right on the needing a new switch. It just seems funny though they work fine once they start working until I turn off the engine. Then I go through the procedure again. I'll check on the posts for more info. Thanks for the reply. A buzzer though????? I'm not sure about that with the engine noise and other traffic noise. I was thinking or hoping that Suzuki had come out with a new switch or relay that shuts them off. Do you know if the 2010 has a new system? I might just call Suzuki and find out.
No difference for 2010.Larger bikes have self canceling turn signals.Not the G.Z. Once you log a few more miles you will find that turning off the signal lights becomes second nature.

[fairweatherrider]

Okay, I'm going to see what I can come up with besides a buzzer.

[mrlmd1]

You are operating the switch correctly, right? You have to push it in to turn the turn signals off.

[fairweatherrider]

Oh yeah I'm operating them right. I believe Blaine was right on needing a new switch but I was figuring if I had to change the switch maybe I could rewire a different relay to get them to turn off automatically. .......or like he said put on another 500 miles and I'll get used to it, and that's the cheaper way out

[JWR]

I try to turn mine off mid-way thru the turn.

Then I may hit it a few times while riding...just a mental check.


The old PC does self cancel.

[Water Warrior 2]

Get into the habit of turning off the signals as soon as you are finished a turn. Also get into a habit(my favorite) of automatically pushing the off switch after each shift. You will soon find a happy habit and be safer.
Proper switch use: Move to left for left turn, move to right for right turn. The switch is only meant to be pushed in to cancel the signals. It will always come back out and wait for the next signal.

[fairweatherrider]

I'm getting a lot better in remembering. Yesterday I was stopped at a traffic light and the driver of a car in back told me my signal light was on. I thanked him for telling me but I felt like an ass. After that happened I was very attentive to the darnn blinking light.

[Easy Rider]

and I'll get used to it, and that's the cheaper way out

First, try some contact cleaner again WHILE moving the switch back and forth some.
WD40 might even work better while exercising the switch........followed by some contact cleaner to flush out the WD.

If you have ANY electrical skills at all, the buzzers are quick, inexpensive and quite effective. I've had them on my last 3 bikes....and just recently found a better way to wire them up so applying either brake shuts them off.......while the brake is applied.

If I haven't updated the thread here with that new information, maybe I should. :roll:

[bonehead]

I'm getting a lot better in remembering. Yesterday I was stopped at a traffic light and the driver of a car in back told me my signal light was on. I thanked him for telling me but I felt like an ass. After that happened I was very attentive to the darnn blinking light.
I actually use the reflection in the headlamp cover during the day. I can see the frt t/s better than that dim green light.

[blaine]

I'm getting a lot better in remembering. Yesterday I was stopped at a traffic light and the driver of a car in back told me my signal light was on. I thanked him for telling me but I felt like an ass. After that happened I was very attentive to the darnn blinking light.
I actually use the reflection in the headlamp cover during the day. I can see the frt t/s better than that dim green light.


My signals reflect off my headlight & windshield to remind me.

[patrick_777]

I got into the habit of pressing the signal cancel on shifting. Now I catch myself cancelling my signals when I'm just driving straight, without the signals on.

[alantf]

maybe I could rewire a different relay to get them to turn off automatically.

????????????? I don't know how the self cancellers on bikes work, but on cars it's mechanical, as the switch is on a stalk fixed to the steering column, & the effect of the wheel being returned to straight ahead after a turn presses the release mechanism. :)

[Easy Rider]

maybe I could rewire a different relay to get them to turn off automatically. .......

Look around a bit; such things DO exist......or they did at one time. Flashers that would self cancel after a pre-set number of flashes. Haven't seen they for YEARS though.

[Sarris]

It's called a Kisan SignalMinder and is available at many on line stores.

Here is mfgr's site:Kisan SignalMinder (http://www.kisantech.com/index.php?cat_id=4)

They're not cheap at this site and you'll have to look for a better deal.

I had one on my '96 Suzuki VS1400 chopper and it worked as advertised, but I finally got into the habit of just turning the signals off as I shifted to 2nd gear, and continue the habit on my GeeZer today.

:)

[Easy Rider]

They're not cheap at this site and you'll have to look for a better deal.


Two reminder buzzers from "The Shack" run about $6 total; no additional parts needed !! :biggrin:

[alantf]

maybe I could rewire a different relay to get them to turn off automatically. .......

Look around a bit; such things DO exist......or they did at one time. Flashers that would self cancel after a pre-set number of flashes. Haven't seen they for YEARS though.

When I used to work on electronic panels (I'm a retired electrician) we would fix (when needed) a small 12v (2"x2"?) timer module. I would imagine that you'd be able to get one at any electronics store, if that's the way you want to go. Don't reckon they'd cost much. :)

[fairweatherrider]

I'll check on the Signal Minder. Thanks Sarris and I will check around alantf. Probably will be used to turning them off before I find something. I have to try the wd-40 and contact cleaner again. The switch still has a problem.

[fairweatherrider]

Just checked on the Signal Minder. Nice but $109. little too much. MAYBE I'll try to get that timer module. No riding today. BIG storms coming.

[fairweatherrider]

Well I am getting used to turning off the signal lights after my turns but I'm really getting aggravated that every time I turn the key on to ride I have to play with the switch, pushing it in a dozen times and left to right before they start working. Then they are fine for my entire ride until I stop and turn off the ignition, then aggravation again. I've sprayed with wd-40, contact cleaner, but did no good. Is it a difficult job to replace the switch or is there some other trick to fixing them without taking anything apart. My first two bikes never had signal lights. Used the old hand signals. Would appreciate any help or some "Miracle Spray".

[blaine]

The switch Is not hard to replace.Before you get a new switch,I would dissemble it and check for rust and dirt that the cleaner can't get to. :rawk:

[cayuse]

Sorry to hear of your trouble. I had exactly the same problem with mine and a few squirts of contact cleaner cleared it up. Maybe there's too much WD40 in the switch now? I used Nutrol Control Cleaner by MG Chemicals and worked the switch while I sprayed. This stuff cleans and lubricates. http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/401b.html
Maybe it's a miracle. :roll:

Good luck.

[Water Warrior 2]

If the switch doesn't work after cleaning I would try a new flasher before investing in a new highly overpriced factory switch. You may just have a really sleepy flasher and messing with the switch eventually wakes it up. A regular automotive flasher will/should work and is a lot cheaper. I believe it is just a 3 prong flasher in the bike. An electronic flasher would be best and not much more $.

[Easy Rider]

A regular automotive flasher will/should work and is a lot cheaper.

I was about to poo-poo that idea but ...........IF the flashers are "pin compatible", an auto replacement would be less than $5 and might be worth a shot.
It seems like I remember, though, that the flasher is somewhat unique in that there is something ELSE in the same physical package; but my memory can't be trusted too much lately. :roll:

[alantf]

If the switch doesn't work after cleaning I would try a new flasher before investing in a new highly overpriced factory switch.

It might be better than taking a guess, to actually put a meter ( set to ohms) across the switch after cleaning it, to see if it IS the switch that's faulty. :2tup:

[blaine]

[quote="Water Warrior":3glzcppw] A regular automotive flasher will/should work and is a lot cheaper.

I was about to poo-poo that idea but ...........IF the flashers are "pin compatible", an auto replacement would be less than $5 and might be worth a shot.
It seems like I remember, though, that the flasher is somewhat unique in that there is something ELSE in the same physical package; but my memory can't be trusted too much lately. :roll:[/quote:3glzcppw]

Turn signal flasher and side stand relay are one component and cannot be replaced with a standard flasher.See page 6-29 in service manual. :2tup:

[Easy Rider]

It might be better than taking a guess, to actually put a meter ( set to ohms) across the switch after cleaning it, to see if it IS the switch that's faulty. :2tup:

And better yet....be sure the bike is turned OFF when you do that !! :biggrin:

[Easy Rider]

Turn signal flasher and side stand relay are one component and cannot be replaced with a standard flasher.See page 6-29 in service manual. :2tup:

I thought so.

[Water Warrior 2]

Just pull the wires out of the factory flasher postions (F and G), add a couple female connectors and plug into a 2 prong auto flaher. You are just bypassing the factory flasher and probably saving a bunch of change. Vstrom riders have been doing this very thing and adding electronic flashers so they can use LED's or higher wattage bulbs in their signals.

[blaine]

Just pull the wires out of the factory flasher postions (F and G), add a couple female connectors and plug into a 2 prong auto flaher. You are just bypassing the factory flasher and probably saving a bunch of change. Vstrom riders have been doing this very thing and adding electronic flashers so they can use LED's or higher wattage bulbs in their signals.


I was wondering if that would be possible to do without screwing something up.THANKS!!!
http://www.postimage.org/templates/images/smiley/happy/15.gif (http://www.postimage.org/)
:2tup:

[3-D Video]

One of the signature lines from "The Graduate" was, "plastics". They got it all wrong. The line should have been, "dielectric grease".
I used to drive a Land Rover, which I beat the liven' be-Jesus out of for 30 years. It had Lucas electrical components which are legendary, the worst. I drove it everywhere on the American west coast; Canada, Mexico, and the U.S. of A.
Ass deep, driving in sea water; driving through surf, crossing inlets, and hauling boats onto the beach. I put the dielectric goop on switches, contacts, and anything with the word "battery" in it. I idolized it when I was a shipwright. I use it on cameras, computers, and now my Suzuki. Because of that, I expect to never have switch problems. Or ignition problems. Or most anything else electrical… If it don't work, then I trust that something's burned out or broken. Not a problem at the contact: Not grime. Not water... And that can be really helpful, especially if you need to make a quick diagnosis at a bad time in some bad place... And that's Murphy's Law!
I figure whatever the question is, if the answer isn't "brute force and ignorance" (since it usually is), then it's got to be either "dielectric grease", or "tacos"… although, sometimes it's "duct tape".

[Easy Rider]

I put the dielectric goop on switches, contacts, and anything with the word "battery" in it. I idolized it when I was a shipwright. I use it on cameras, computers, and now my Suzuki.

A little bit of clarification is needed here, I think.

Di-electric grease is an INSULATOR and is intended to shield electrical CONNECTIONS from moisture without causing a short between nearby conductors.

Your blanket endorsement and experience not withstanding......it should NOT be used on electrical contacts that have light pressure.....like low voltage relay contacts.
It is an insulator and it is grease. It will, over time, accumulate dust, dirt and general grime and actually cause a failure on many types of contact surfaces.

This is not usually a problem with heavy duty or wiping types of contacts as they actually move the grease out of the way to make good contact.

It is most valuable in maritime applications because there the salt water corrosion is more of a hazard to exposed metal contacts than is the long term accumulation of dirt. Those considerations are REVERSED in most inland situations.

Di-electric grease is good stuff when used as it is intended. Just don't get too carried away and use it where it is NOT intended. If a little is good, more is not always better. :)

[3-D Video]

If a little is good, more is not always better. :)

I usually take the other route; more is always better… Admittedly, I've found that philosophy has not always held true :(

From personal experience, I have never run into an electrical problem created by dirty contacts caused by, or even in association with, dielectric grease. I'm sure it could happen, 'cause that only makes sense.

At one time I was the chief electrician for the "Pike Place Market Preservation and Development Authority" in Seattle. Yes, right on Puget Sound, and in humid, salty air. That was 30 years ago, another 20 years later (I've kept in touch). My work there is still at the root of trust. Why? Dielectric grease; my "repairs" stand out, they have never failed. Maybe, especially because they were in a salty environment? I'm sure that's true, too.

But, here's the point; I've never witnessed a down-side from using this stuff, and I've used it a lot.
The up side is that by using it you may never have to question your electrical contacts (or at least, it could be your last concern). You may never have to waste time worrying that you've screwed up your contacts when you wash your bike (it's the washing the bike post which prompted me to write this). Wet weather will be less of a threat… The way I see it, It's just a good idea all 'round.

[Easy Rider]

[quote="Easy Rider":3nuxf4dg] If a little is good, more is not always better. :)

I usually take the other route; more is always better… Admittedly, I've found that philosophy has not always held true :(

But, here's the point; I've never witnessed a down-side from using this stuff, and I've used it a lot. [/quote:3nuxf4dg]

That kind of WAS the point. No single individual can ever "see it all" so input from others is valuable.....if the source is credible.

I've been an Engineering Technician for about 45 years and riding the same amount of time.
I HAVE see the downside; not often, mind you, but more than once.

If the connection is marginal in the first place, add a little insulating grease and then vibrate a bit and you now have an open (or worse, intermittant) connection where it was perfectly fine before.

Then there are people who get totally carried away. Most 12 V relays don't have a lot of contact pressure; many of them are covered and partially sealed for a very good reason. It doesn't take much gunk on the contacts to start arcing and rapid failure. IF you are contemplating putting di-electric grease on a relay contact where you have to remove a plastic or metal cover to get AT it........then you are about to make a big mistake, most likely.

Many millions of cars, trucks and bikes are running around the planet with litterally BILLIONS of electrical connectors in them......without any di-electric grease......and most of the vehicles will wear out from use before an electrical connection will go bad. (Maritime environments and wires near batteries excluded.)

[fairweatherrider]

Thanks for all the info. I haven't been on line in a few days and I still have the trouble with the switch. Is that flasher easy to get at? I'll check the manual to find it. The switch costs a bit. So then I'll try to fix the switch. Tomorrow's another day...

[blaine]

It is in fuse box under storage compartment.See page 6-29 in manual.
http://www.postimage.org/templates/images/smiley/signs-and-flags/23.gif (http://www.postimage.org/)

[Water Warrior 2]

Mess with the switch and get the signals to work. Then just follow your ears to the flasher. It should be audible if there are no other noises around.

[fairweatherrider]

WOW, well it looks like I have to flip a coin. Can the switch be disassembled while it's on the handlebars or is it a big process?

[blaine]

Not a big process.Just go slow as not to loose any small parts.
http://www.postimage.org/templates/images/smiley/smiling/14.gif (http://www.postimage.org/)

[fairweatherrider]

I'll give it a try on a rainy day when I don't ride and let you know how I make out. Thanks

[Water Warrior 2]

I would be very careful with taking the switch apart. From past experience I seem to find there is always a little spring waiting to leap out into parts unknown. Had a push to stop switch on my KDX that never really worked no matter how hard and long I held down the button. Took it apart and a little spring lept out of the garage into a grassy area. The dealer wanted $38 for a new switch back in 1988. Bought a regular off/on switch at Radio Shack for a buck.

[fairweatherrider]

Well I finally made up my mind, ordered a new flasher relay, and installed it today and yahoooo, the signal lights work just fine. Thanks everybody for the help and, Water Warrior, you finally convinced me. It definitely cost more than a car flasher but I guess I'm just fussy and wasn't ready for a 'home remedy'.

[Water Warrior 2]

Well I finally made up my mind, ordered a new flasher relay, and installed it today and yahoooo, the signal lights work just fine. Thanks everybody for the help and, Water Warrior, you finally convinced me. It definitely cost more than a car flasher but I guess I'm just fussy and wasn't ready for a 'home remedy'.
Out with it.........how much did they need to make a sale ?

[fairweatherrider]

Well I bought 2 spare bulbs with the relay, and it all cost me $59.95 ( plus $15.00 shipping which I thought was way too much) but I'm satisfied.

[Water Warrior 2]

Well I bought 2 spare bulbs with the relay, and it all cost me $59.95 ( plus $15.00 shipping which I thought was way too much) but I'm satisfied.
They sure want a pound of flesh for parts. That would have cost me over $100 in the Great White North. As it is I just had to shell out over $30 for a bearing from Suzuki because they wanted to have a unique hard to find part. Nothing wrong with a normal common bearing but NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, we gotta be different.

[fairweatherrider]

Can't you order your needs over the internet? It will cost you more for shipping though and might not be worth it. Check out where I ordered from...shspowersports.com

[Water Warrior 2]

Some things can be ordered over the net and sent here via USPS and there are no duties or tariffs, just the shipping charge. Other times it is a real hit and I have never been able to figure out what the answer might be. It is a real crap shoot and can be expensive as all get out. Example : 2 jackets sent separately USPS from New Enough in Texas. One was no extra charge from the Canadian Postal Service, the other was an extra $28. Go figure. For larger expensive items I have them sent to a mailing address in Washington and I drive down and get it. So far so good crossing the border. Just recently picked up 2 tires for half of what they cost here.
2 years ago I had 2 tires bought and installed here on the Vstrom for $450. This week with tires from the U.S. installed here and 5 wheel bearings installed plus my gas cost I was $50 ahead of last time. It ain't cheap here but thankfully I don't have to pay what riders pay in Australia.

[alantf]

I just checked on Amazon in England, for a filing cabinet that I wanted. Great price on the cabinet, but shipping would have more than doubled the price. :cry:

[Easy Rider]

and 5 wheel bearings installed

OK, just gotta ask:
With only 2 wheels, how do you come up with FIVE wheel bearings ???? :??:
Typo ??

[fairweatherrider]

Some things can be ordered over the net and sent here via USPS and there are no duties or tariffs, just the shipping charge. Other times it is a real hit and I have never been able to figure out what the answer might be. It is a real crap shoot and can be expensive as all get out. Example : 2 jackets sent separately USPS from New Enough in Texas. One was no extra charge from the Canadian Postal Service, the other was an extra $28. Go figure. For larger expensive items I have them sent to a mailing address in Washington and I drive down and get it. So far so good crossing the border. Just recently picked up 2 tires for half of what they cost here.
2 years ago I had 2 tires bought and installed here on the Vstrom for $450. This week with tires from the U.S. installed here and 5 wheel bearings installed plus my gas cost I was $50 ahead of last time. It ain't cheap here but thankfully I don't have to pay what riders pay in Australia.
The tires must have been an "Inflated Price" :roll:
You guys need to find a pilot and open a business.

[Water Warrior 2]

[quote="Water Warrior":3e9fo69r]and 5 wheel bearings installed

OK, just gotta ask:
With only 2 wheels, how do you come up with FIVE wheel bearings ???? :??:
Typo ??[/quote:3e9fo69r]
I just knew it would be you Easy. #5 bearing is a sprocket carrier bearing. That is the spendy one of the 5 in total. The sprocket in mounted to the carrier which also has the little cush drive rubbers in it. Right in the middle of the cush drive rubbers is the bearing. It probably doesn't do a lot of work but I guess it is needed in the grand scheme of things. If my mind is correct the only time it is working is when the rubbers compress on shifts, accelerating and braking. They would remove any harshness from the drive train. After 45,000 kms the rubbers are still virtually new so I couldn't be that hard on a bike.

[Water Warrior 2]

fairweatherrider, it wouldn't be tires and I wouldn't need a pilot. There are quite a few hiking trails at the Alberta/Montana border and a backpack can carry a lot of recreational medication. Would I do it.......no. Would others do it........of course.

[fairweatherrider]

fairweatherrider, it wouldn't be tires and I wouldn't need a pilot. There are quite a few hiking trails at the Alberta/Montana border and a backpack can carry a lot of recreational medication. Would I do it.......no. Would others do it........of course.
I meant legally...of course.