Rode fine all day, then it died completely no power anywhere

[ajmiller]

I had been riding around town just cruising around since it was gonna rain the next four days and when I got back home left it running while I jumped off and opened the garage door, jumped back on kicked it into first and started pulling into the garage and it died (it felt like I killed it) but it acted like I was in second or a higher gear going from a stopped position and it died. So I went to re-start it and it started to turn over BUT THEN it made a loud POP towards the front of the motor and I had no lights, horn, no nothing. It was pretty cold out and so I just said F it and pushed it into the garage and left it for the night since it was gonna rain the next day (today) and work on it then. Well I dont even know where to start so I am asking for help before I mess anything up. Most of you seem to know a thing or two about gems so let me know what to do and what to check PLEASE!!!

Thanks everyone!

[JWR]

The first things I would do is :

Take off seat and side cover.
Put battery on a charger.
Turn on key and see if you have power back.

If no power check fuses and wires for shorts.

How much do you know about working on the GZ???

You have to get power back on before I can guess anymore.

[ajmiller]

I am actually out buying a charger right now. I did check the two 20amp fuses next to the battery and they were not blown. Just wanted to update ya.

[JWR]

Good, I will check back.

[mrlmd1]

Was it running, then you put it in first gear and let out the clutch with the sidestand up?, or did you let out the clutch with the bike in gear and the stand down, and then it died along with making a loud pop sound? Was that a backfire (gas exploding in the muffler) or some other noise?
The bike will not run if it is in gear if the sidestand is still down, but you probably know that.
Have you tried to start it since and you still have no power, no lights?
Like JWR said, check the main fuse and check your battery voltage. Hook up a set of jumper cables to another 12v battery and see if you have lights.
A blown fuse shouldn't really make a loud pop, that would have to be a pretty big short.

[ajmiller]

The pop was not a backfire and if the starter is located towards the front and bottom of the motor I think it came from that general area. I believe if the stand is down clutch in or out it will kill itself but the lights will stay on. That only kills the motor not the electrical power. Which one is the main fuse? I checked the two yellow ones and they were fine.

[mrlmd1]

See page 22 of the parts manual downloadable on here. There is another 20 amp fuse in addition to the 10 and 15 amps ones you found.

[Water Warrior 2]

If you haven't already got them, a test light and a cheap meter will save you hours of guessing. Visually checking fuses will not always tell the story. Eliminate the simple stuff before looking for the hard stuff. Use the K.I.S.S. principle. You will be up and riding in no time.

[Easy Rider]

The pop was not a backfire and if the starter is located towards the front and bottom of the motor I think it came from that general area.

You need a multi-meter......or find someone who has one......to trace the problem.

One of the main battery cables might have worked loose at the OTHER end and then arc'ed and popped to complete the failure.

Without a meter, you need to find THE main fuse and then check the main cable connections; I think they both end up in the general vicininty of the starter. After that, you need a meter. It is possible that your battery has suddenly failed.

[ajmiller]

Ok. So no meter. No test light. I have a fuse puller and fingers and that told me that none of the fuses that were mentioned in the owners manual were bad. My new battery charger says its charging the battery and that it was dead. Tried the ignition and still no lights or anything electrical.

[Easy Rider]

Ok. So no meter. No test light.

So......what are you trying to tell us ??

Next, you need to let the battery charge overnight and see what happens.

Then you need to check the cable connections............

THEN you are going to HAVE to get a meter or a mechanic because you can't find electrical faults by LOOKING at them or "feeling" the fuses.......no matter how good your eyes and fingers are.

[ajmiller]

And what would I do once I get a meter?

[JWR]

Google voltage meter...

Call a friend that knows what a voltage meter is...

Take it to a shop???

[Water Warrior 2]

Your local auto parts store will have a test light and probably a multimeter with instructions. Experiment with the cage battery and fuse panel to learn how the T.L. and meter should work. It is really quite simple and straight forward. Soon you will be checking your flashlights and other doo dads for power levels.

[ajmiller]

Thanks for some direction in what to do. It does not sound hard I was just trying to see if any of you had any ideas on what to check first. - will not pay a shop to fix anything that I am able to figure out since the only place around me is crazy to think that anyone would pay their prices.

[bonehead]

Just some first hand experience with fuses. You can look at a fuse and see it thru the flat viewing area and it can look good(not blown/separated). Also look at the top where the two little pieces come out of the plastic housing. Now look at the flat surface where they begin to protrude into the top-if that area is black the fuse is blown.
That little bit of knowledge cost us a wrecker fee for one of our school buses to the local International dealer.
And yes, I really felt stupid!

[Easy Rider]

I was just trying to see if any of you had any ideas on what to check first. -

will not pay a shop to fix anything that I am able to figure out since the only place around me is crazy to think that anyone would pay their prices.

You got about the only answers possible under the circumstances. Have you checked those cable connections yet? That part you should be able to do just with eye and feel......and you can just replace the main fuse for about a buck to be sure it doesn't have a hidden fault.

As for shop labor prices, what line of work are YOU in ?? Would you continue to do that kind of work if you couldn't cover all your expenses and make a small profit ??

I don't believe in throwing your money away but I DO believe in being practical about what you can and can't (or shouldn't) handle on your own. Sometimes it is cheaper to just pay to get it fixed up front.......before you mess it up worse and it ends up costing MORE.

This will be a good learning experience **IF** you have the time and the patience to see it through. I kind of get the impression that you might be a little short on the patience side. :)

[ajmiller]

I am very patient actually I just don't like not knowing what's wrong with my vehicles and not know how to fix it. My buddy works on harleys and know his way around bikes so he helps out when he can and beer is a lot cheaper than labor prices and I benefit more. It charged all night and showed to be ready to go on the charger this morning so I tried her out and I got another pop sound and lights went out again. Swapped spare main fuse for used one before I did anything this morning. Another day of sitting around waiting on the rain so am going to go get a volt meter and if I can't find my test will pick one of those up as well. And I disagree with the suzuki shop near me cause their priced outrageous and I get treated like shit every time I go in there. My suzuki friends also get the same treatment so they are well on their way to running their business to the ground. Sorry for language but had to be done in regards to this place. Would their be a reason why the (pop) noise would come from in the storage area? Storage container is out of course and all open to view.

[Sarris]

A few simple suggestions. Check for a shorted or loose battery cable. That can cause a pop when it arcs.

Check the starter leads. Check the starter motor relay. Check the regulator/rectifier. Possibly a bad starter.

My first inclination is that the starter motor relay is bad if it pops under the seat when you hit the starter button. It has it's own 20a fuse. You should be able to get it tested at a parts store or at the dealer.

Here is the electrical stuff at Ron Ayers: Electrical (http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/2/Make/Suzuki/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/7858/Model/GZ250/GroupID/373504/Group/ELECTRICAL_)

Good luck! :)

[blaine]

You have a bad connection close to your battery.Clean and tighten all connections.The popping you hear is a connection trying to make contact.One of the main cables,or fuses.

[ajmiller]

and a piece of info I forgot to mention is that when the battery is charged: when I turn the key its ok lights on and all, but then its when I hit the electric start button that it gets all screwed up.

[bonehead]

Shorted battery? May need to take it out and get it load tested.

[JWR]

I would take out the spark plug and try to crank over the engine.

If engine rolls over good, then the problem would be starter...or wiring.

[ajmiller]

Don't know if its a good thing or bad thing but I was standing over looking at everything and I can hear the fluids in the battery boiling while its being charged. Good or bad thing?

[ajmiller]

And I can smell something strange when I try and start it. Does not smell like wires getting hot. I'm thinking its the battery? Anyone else heard or experienced this?

[bonehead]

Battery acid will make sounds while it is charging. And you can smell it too. Battery acid gas IS FLAMMABLE.
But I'd check for loose connections @ the battery, starter, and grounds.
As I said before, you could have a shorted battery too.

[mrlmd1]

What size charger are you using for the battery? You should be charging it with no more than a 2 amp charge. A higher charging rate. like 12 amps and more overnight can cause it to overheat and boil. Make sure the battery is filled to the proper level and not empty with the plates exposed. Use distilled or really clean and not hard water to refill it (not acid). If your battery was really dry and you had it boiling on the charger, it may be toast and not able to be saved. You may also have a short inside the battery. Your whole problem could have been that you have a really dry battery and it's shorted out inside. And make sure the top of the battery itself is clean.

Also - After you make sure the connections of both cables to the battery are tight and secure and the battery is charged, trace the red hot lead from the battery and the other ones underneath to and from the starter and that area - you may have a break in the insulation somewhere and the hot cable is contacting the frame making that popping sound with a big spark, and see if there are any burn marks anywhere. You need a good fuse in there to check this.
Turn on the key to the ignition, don't try to start it yet, jiggle the red hot leads around and see if there's any popping noises or sparks. If you get that noise only when you hit the starter, then that narrows the problem down to the starter relay or to the starter, unless you can hear that noise coming from the battery itself.
If you think that popping sound comes from the battery, disconnect and remove it and connect the leads to jumper cables to another 12v battery and hit the start button and see what happens.

Question - when you changed that 20 amp fuse, was it blown or was it still good? Did you test it with anything for continuity or did you just look at it? If that fuse didn't blow, you probably don't have a short somewhere and that could narrow the problem down.

[ajmiller]

UPDATE: I just had the battery tested and it failed miserably so picked up a new one up and now just gotta wait for new battery to get all set up and charged up.

[mrlmd1]

"Battery acid gas IS FLAMMABLE." --- it's Hydrogen, and it's explosive.
Make sure you charge it fully before using it the first time - it's most likely an AGM battery, at 2 amps, not higher.
The battery probably was your problem, and you still have to look at it once in a while and check the fluid level even though it's listed as a "sealed battery" as some of these have a strip on top closing off the filler openings and may have to be topped up once in a long while. Hopefully the new battery will cure your ills, if the 20 amp fuse is still good.

[ajmiller]

So the bike has 10100 miles on it and I just bought it about a month ago. I figured it could probably use a new spark plug while I was waiting around so I bought a new one and just now went to take out the old one and it was not even finger tight, like a hotdog down a hallway loose. So what could this cause potentially?

[blaine]

So the bike has 10100 miles on it and I just bought it about a month ago. I figured it could probably use a new spark plug while I was waiting around so I bought a new one and just now went to take out the old one and it was not even finger tight, like a hot dog down a hallway loose. So what could this cause potentially?


Try to install new plug, if it tightens no problem,if not the threads are striped and will require a HELI-COIL to repair.

[Easy Rider]

Would their be a reason why the (pop) noise would come from in the storage area?

I answered that question already; a couple of replies just before this repeated it.
Whatever is making the POP is where the problem IS.......or it might just be the main fuse blowing again.

Good luck.

[ajmiller]

Main fuse never blew. has not blown since I have had the bike.

[Easy Rider]

Main fuse never blew. has not blown since I have had the bike.

OK, well SOMETHING blew, causing the loss of power.

Let's hope that it WAS just a bad battery........and you don't end up killing this second one too !! :)

(Note for Sarris: The starter itself does not have a "fuse" at all. When cranking it can draw more than 50 amps. Might be a fusible link but I think the solenoid contacts are about the only "fuse" there is. )

[Water Warrior 2]

Possibly the spark plug was loose due to poor maintenance. Hopefully the threads are not stripped which will mean a helicoil as mentioned. A new plug should make a bit of a difference especially if it is fitted properly.

[ajmiller]

The new plug fit just fine and tightened just fine.

[ajmiller]

Not that I'm impatient but how long should a new battery charge for at 1.5amps? Been charging since 5pm and is now 9pm and it still says its charging. Its a mate-free battery.

[blaine]

The new plug fit just fine and tightened just fine.


Something to keep an eye in future maintenance.

[blaine]

Not that I'm impatient but how long should a new battery charge for at 1.5amps? Been charging since 5pm and is now 9pm and it still says its charging. Its a mate-free battery.

Battery should be fully by the morning.Charger will indicate when battery is fully charged.

[alantf]

Its a mate-free battery.

Please enlighten me. I've never heard that term before. :??: :)

[blaine]

Its a mate-free battery.

Please enlighten me. I've never heard that term before. :??: :)


It means "maintenance free" under normal conditions does not need water added like some of the older batteries.Not as advanced as the newer "GELL" batteries. :) :)

[Water Warrior 2]

I think I mentioned this before so please bear with me. For those wanting distilled water to top up a battery you can find it at a drug store in various sized jugs/bottles.

[bonehead]

I think I mentioned this before so please bear with me. For those wanting distilled water to top up a battery you can find it at a drug store in various sized jugs/bottles.
My grocery store carries it regular. Really should'nt be too hard to get.

[Water Warrior 2]

Just don't think drinking it is a great health benefit. It is completely empty water. No minerals or trace elements that the body needs.

[ajmiller]

Sorry for not posting this earlier but I did not want to jinx it. She is up and running and running at top peak. Wasted a full tank of gas riding around today. New battery did the trick and the new spark plug helped out a rough idle issue it had. I thank all of you for helping out and hope that I can return the help one day. But hopefully nobody has issues with their bikes. Thanks again.

[blaine]

Glad we could help.Keep the shiny side up.

[Water Warrior 2]

:whistle: There is no such thing as wasting gas by riding around. Think of it as recharging your soul and sanity.

[ajmiller]

I agree with ya water warrior. I have a quick question. What grade of fuel do you all find to be the most beneficial? I am in iowa fyi and for some stupid reason lots of our gas stations don't carry the highest octane gas only choices are super unleaded and unleaded. Minimal stations carry premium. What do you all use?

[Sarris]

This topic has been beaten to death. Do a search for the word "octane" and you'll find a myriad of info like this quote from one of my previous posts.

Suzuki makes an Asian sub-continent head for the GZ that will run 60 octane, kerosene, deisel, saki, dog shit, etc. I think it's safe to use the cheapest gas possible for the GZ. Now, both my Harley's require 91 octane...... so WTF??

PS: Your Owner's Manual says 87 octane minimum on page #7. No mention of anything else.

Also, please remember that the higher the octane, the LOWER the volatility. That keeps high compression engines from detonating (pinging). I also run 10% ethanol regular without any problems.

:)

[Water Warrior 2]

What Sarris said. Most major brands are top tier gas so buy it and burn it.

[Easy Rider]

I am in iowa fyi and for some stupid reason lots of our gas stations don't carry the highest octane gas only choices are super unleaded and unleaded. Minimal stations carry premium. What do you all use?

I think you need to re-check the numbers.

IIRC, those stations with only 2 grades, have regular and "premium" and not the mid-grade......or maybe it is mid and premium.

ANYHOW, I'm pretty sure that all will have a 91 octane 'cause some cars require it.

Your bike, however, will get absolutely no benefit from running anything except the lowest octane that you can buy at a retail pump. This applies to ALL vehicles that do not specifically require a higher octane number.

A lower octane number does NOT mean a lower quality of gas.
"Premium" is a marketing lie. The only thing "premium" about it is the price.

[ajmiller]

Ok. Well the stations that only carry two types are 87 octane and 89 octane.

[Easy Rider]

Ok. Well the stations that only carry two types are 87 octane and 89 octane.

OK, so what do you DO if you have a vehicle that requires 91 octane ??
Find a different station, I guess.

I've spent a fair amount of time in Iowa, but not DesMoines recently, and I don't remember seeing that.....but then I wasn't LOOKING for it either.

There for a while, they only had 89 and 91......because if you take raw gas that is 87 and 89 and you ADD ethanol, you get.....TA DA.....89 and 91.

Anyhow, your bike only needs 87; any higher octane is a waste of money.