High idle after using choke to start.

[sfetterman]

When using the choke to start my 2006 GZ250 the engine idles at a high speed for a long period of time...too long...I have to ride it for 15 to 20 minutes before it will idle normally...anyone experienced this before? Any suggestions?

[patrick_777]

Seafoam.

[blaine]

Also you can check for sticking choke cable,or plugged air filter.Welcome to the fourm!

[sfetterman]

Seafoam???????????????????

[sfetterman]

Thanks for the welcome Blaine.

[blaine]

SEAFOAM is a carb cleaner that is added to the gas.

[BillInGA]

Seafoam???????????????????

Yeah, me too. Never heard of it.

I just did some quick research and it sounds like good stuff. It's a fuel additive that removes carbon deposits / varnish from fuel system and combustion chamber.

I'm going to get some and try it out.

[Easy Rider]

SEAFOAM is a carb cleaner that is added to the gas.

Kind of. Seafoam is a fuel stabilizer; for that, it is very good.
It also has some fuel system cleaning ability; for that there are other things that work better.

If you need some carb cleaner, Berryman's B12 Chemtool and Original Gumout are better...and cheaper too. :tup:

[Easy Rider]

When using the choke to start my 2006 GZ250 the engine idles at a high speed for a long period of time...too long...I have to ride it for 15 to 20 minutes before it will idle normally...anyone experienced this before? Any suggestions?

Some carb cleaner in the gas might help BUT.....

The choke is NOT an all or nothing affair.
It only needs to be on enough to keep the idle speed slightly above normal until it gets warm. Try adjusting it toward the OFF setting enough to slow the idle speed down to where it sounds comfortable.
You should be able to start it with about 1/2 to 3/4 choke....and don't touch the throttle until you hear signs of life. :)

[5th_bike]

Welcome to the forum sfetterman, you're member number 1,000 !!! :2tup: :rawk: :cool: :techy: :bow:

Re: your problem, assuming you put the choke handle partially back once it's started up and totally when it's warmed up, I'm also thinking of the choke cable being stuck, it may need some oil.

[sfetterman]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I will use some carb cleaner and oil the choke cable this weekend. :roll:

[sfetterman]

OK...Looked at the cable tonight...definately stuck...any advice on how to lubricate the cable would be greatly appreciated.

[Easy Rider]

OK...Looked at the cable tonight...definately stuck...any advice on how to lubricate the cable would be greatly appreciated.

I hope somebody else has an idea because I don't. I think the upper end of the cable is not exposed inside the sheath; that would mean taking something apart.

If the inside cable IS accessable at the top of the sheath, you can start with something like WD40 which has lots of good solvents but precious little actual lubrication. Might need to put it in one or two drops at a time and let is soak down; this might take a LONG time. If that does free it up, you can follow with any real lubricant of your choice. I like the Teflon or PTFE spray lube.

P.S. Unless you are sure it is the actual cable that is stuck, you might want to give the connection at the bottom end a shot of WD too......just incase that is the part that is stuck.

[sfetterman]

Thanks...sounds like good advice...I disconnected the cable at the carb and it appears to be stuck at the 90 degree bend at the bottom where it attaches to the carb....I will try silicone spray and see what happens.

[blaine]

Usally the choke plunger gets gummed up at the carburator end.Detatches from the carb with a 14MM wrench.When you have it detatched ,clean and lube plunger and plunger cavity.Move choke lever back and forth to check for ease of operation,reinstall plunger in carb.

[sfetterman]

I disconnected the cable from the carb. and the choke cable does not release...ie let the plunger does not spring back out when I release the choke...the cable is definately the issue.

[blaine]

With cable disconnected you should be able to see were it is seized,and resolve your problem.GOOD-LUCK.

[Water Warrior 2]

A cheap but effective cable lube is ATF.

[dhgeyer]

Or you could simply replace the cable. Lubricating it while it's off the bike before you install it is pretty easy. I haven't priced a choke cable, but I can't believe it'd be too much. I've found out the hard way too many times that once something has started to cause problems, not replacing it is false economy.

[alantf]

I know it's not the same, but for me, a speedo cable was €24 ($36?).

[dannylightning]

when my bike did this my choke cable was stuck, it would either stall out or it would rev up super high.

[sfetterman]

Thanks for the input...currently I"m riding it everyday so I'm not needing to use the choke and the bike is running great. I will probably just order a new cable and replace it when I get it. Seems like it will be a fairly easy process.

[dannylightning]

choke cable is extremely easy, you do halve to take the old plunger and spring off the old choke cable. all you do is unscrew the cable from the carb and it will pull right out, no pices will go flying out of there or any thing like that, taking a part the little box on the hand grip is easy also, get teh 2 screws out of there, pull that little box apart, unhook the choke cable put the new one in and screw it back togeather, should only take about 10-20 min if you have never done it before., the hardest part will be running the new cable under the gas tank and that is not exactly hard,

it is important to warm up the bike with the choke before you go ride it. you can always just set there and give it a little gas for a few min to make it idle faster. on this little engine you can damage it by running the bike at low idle. remember it is only one cylinder.

[k1w1t1m]

If you tie or tape a string onto the old cable before pulling it out you can then use the string to pull the new cable back in. That way as long as the old cable was routed correctly the new one will be too.

[sfetterman]

Great advice...thanks!

[dannylightning]

If you tie or tape a string onto the old cable before pulling it out you can then use the string to pull the new cable back in. That way as long as the old cable was routed correctly the new one will be too.


that is great advice, as long as you get it right that is the easiest way to run a line threw. just make sure you get out the duct tape and tape it up really good so it does not fall off when pulling it threw.

[sfetterman]

Replaced the cable last night...easier than I thought...took less than 30 minutes...bike runs great...THANKS all for your help!

[blaine]

Replaced the cable last night...easier than I thought...took less than 30 minutes...bike runs great...THANKS all for your help!


A lot of maintance jobs on the G.Z. are easy once you get started. GOOD LUCK!!

[GinetteHuber]

http://www.balloons.net/images/Inflatable_Product_Replicas/big/Spam-Can.jpg

[alantf]

And yet more SPAM Wow, this guy doesn't give up easily.