I heard marbles rattling in the engine and it just stopped.

[tommyjoebilly]

[color=#0000FF]Hi there, I bought a GZ250, 1999 for my first bike. I'm almost 50 :) I enjoyed riding that thing until one day, I was idling at a red light and I heard what sounded like when you pick up a penny in your vacuum cleaner. I was hoping it would "go away", but several seconds later the engine just "locked up". I put it in neutral and tried to start it, but it would not even turn over. Does this sound familiar to anyone??
I have worked on cars some and can handle a wrench, but I don't know if it's something in the engine or the transmission. I was thinking about pulling the cylinder head and cylinder off to see what I can see, as I'm guessing that that would be easier than taking apart the transmission :poke2: Or, maybe I could drain the oil and take off that plate on the side to look at the crankcase (?). Any help would be most appreciated, even guesses.

[blaine]

It sounds like it got starved for oil and seazed.Maybe oil pump?

[dhgeyer]

Thrown rod comes to mind, or broken/jammed cam chain leading to valves getting beaten to a pulp. I'm guessing it's unlikely to be a transmission problem, as the total failure occurred with the clutch disengaged.

Whatever happened, it is likely that some kind of lubrication issue brought it on. I say likely, not certain.

Sorry to hear this happened to you. By the sound of it, it won't be an easy fix.

One possibility to keep in mind is keeping an eye on Ebay and Craigslist for someone parting out a GZ250, and getting a replacement engine/transmission. You might get lucky.

[Easy Rider]

Thrown rod comes to mind, or broken/jammed cam chain leading to valves getting beaten to a pulp.

I'd lean toward a valve problem. A broken rod tends to make much bigger noises......and a bigger mess too !!

Flip a coin for which cover comes off first. I guess the bottom one would be a little easier but I really think the problem is going to be on the top. Of course, if a valve beat up on the piston, both covers will have to come off anyway.

Wonder if there is any chance of a broken starter mechanism jamming the flywheel ??

[tommyjoebilly]

It sounds like it got starved for oil and seazed.Maybe oil pump?
I don't know. It had enough oil, as I checked it after it "stopped", but perhaps the pump was not working? Thanks.

[tommyjoebilly]

Thrown rod comes to mind, or broken/jammed cam chain leading to valves getting beaten to a pulp. I'm guessing it's unlikely to be a transmission problem, as the total failure occurred with the clutch disengaged.

Whatever happened, it is likely that some kind of lubrication issue brought it on. I say likely, not certain.

Sorry to hear this happened to you. By the sound of it, it won't be an easy fix.

One possibility to keep in mind is keeping an eye on Ebay and Craigslist for someone parting out a GZ250, and getting a replacement engine/transmission. You might get lucky.

Thanks, dhgeyer! Do you know what causes, a "thrown rod"? The weird thing was that it kept running with all this noise happening for about 10 seconds or so. I would think that if a valve was broken up, it would start running rough, or stall, but it kept running. I don't know.

[tommyjoebilly]

Thrown rod comes to mind, or broken/jammed cam chain leading to valves getting beaten to a pulp.

I'd lean toward a valve problem. A broken rod tends to make much bigger noises......and a bigger mess too !!

Flip a coin for which cover comes off first. I guess the bottom one would be a little easier but I really think the problem is going to be on the top. Of course, if a valve beat up on the piston, both covers will have to come off anyway.

Wonder if there is any chance of a broken starter mechanism jamming the flywheel ??

Funny you should say that, EasyRider! Prior to this incident, even many weeks before, sometimes when I started it, it would make a nasty "grinding" noise, like a garbage disposal gone bad. I would say, "Whoa! Ok!!" and then start it again. After the incident, I did remove the starter and the middle of all the splines had lost about 20 percent of their "stock". But the noise was much "heavier" than some little bits of metal, unless it led to larger pieces (gears?) breaking down??
Thanks so much, Easy, for your post!

[tommyjoebilly]

Thanks so much, Blaine, dhgeyer and Easyrider for your help thusfar. I really appreciate it!

[tommyjoebilly]

Thanks to Blaine too!

[dhgeyer]

Thanks, dhgeyer! Do you know what causes, a "thrown rod"? The weird thing was that it kept running with all this noise happening for about 10 seconds or so. I would think that if a valve was broken up, it would start running rough, or stall, but it kept running. I don't know.

Not really. I'm going to admit at this point that I'm way beyond my depth when it comes to a problem that is likely to be this severe. I do all my own routine maintenance, but the last time I tore a motorcycle engine down was about 40 years ago, and it was a 2 stroke. I'll just confess that if it were mine, I would take it to "the man", and if the bill was going to be too high, I'd look for a replacement engine. If that didn't work, I'd buy a new bike. As I said, I'm out of my depth here.

[Easy Rider]

Funny you should say that, EasyRider!

But the noise was much "heavier" than some little bits of metal, unless it led to larger pieces (gears?) breaking down??
Thanks so much, Easy, for your post!

It is very common for the first post about any problem to leave out some detail that later turns out to be important. :)

Given what you just said, I think you should take a look at that starter again first.
Even though a damaged flywheel might sound easier to fix than a trashed top-end, it may not be because the case might have to come apart to do that.

Regardless of what the cause turns out to be, it is not likely to be easy.

Sorry for your pain. :cry:

[tommyjoebilly]

Thanks EasyRider. I'm gonna drain the oil and take off that plate on the right side to see what I can see.

[Dupo]

/moved to appropriate section.

[tommyjoebilly]

Thanks Dupo. I didn't really know where to post this.

[tommyjoebilly]

Ok, I drained the oil and took off that plate. I noticed that the bolt were different lengths, so I numbered 'em, so as not to screw up. For what it's worth, when draining the oil I let it run over my fingers, to feel any "chips" of metal. There were none. That's a good thing, I think.
Next up is the cylinder head.

[tommyjoebilly]

Ok, I took the cylinder head off today. I tied up the timing chain to the handlebar using some rubber bands to keep it engaged with the crankshaft while allowing me to work around it. The valves are intact and there's no scoring of the cylinder wall, so I think that the ring(s?) did not break.
Next, is to open the crankcase and see what's doin' down there. Do I really need a torque wrench to tighten the head bolts?

[patrick_777]

Probably a good idea to torque to specs.

[BillInGA]

The service manual specifies a criss-cross torquing pattern for the cylinder head nuts, and the cylinder base nuts are torqued after the cylinder head nuts.

[tommyjoebilly]

Thanks Bill. I haven't put her all together yet, but I will refer to the manual for that process. If you don't have a torque wrench, can you "guess", like give each one an equally good manly twist? Those four nuts were on there pretty good. I was using a basic rachet.

[blaine]

Thanks Bill. I haven't put her all together yet, but I will refer to the manual for that process. If you don't have a torque wrench, can you "guess", like give each one an equally good manly twist? Those four nuts were on there pretty good. I was using a basic rachet.
If you don't use a torque wrench you will likely warp and ruin the cylinder head.

[dannylightning]

i would definitely get a torque wrench, the one i have was not that expensive and it seems to work quite well.

[bonehead]

YES, use a torque wrench. Most auto parts stores will rent for a couple of hours. Heads are critical and need to be torqued to the specs in the pattern shown in the manual.

[BillInGA]

Also, be sure to use a new head gasket.

[Easy Rider]

Also, be sure to use a new head gasket.

+1
I hope you marked the position of the cam in relation to the chain and drive gear.......go get the valve timing right again when it goes back together.

[dannylightning]

Also, be sure to use a new head gasket.''

true true, any time you take a gasket off you are going to want to get a new one. even if you pull it off and it loos fine you really should replace it or you may be sorry that you did not.

[tommyjoebilly]

Thanks Blaine, Danny and Bonehead . Bone, can I call ya Bone? Yeah, I'm gonna go to Autozone. I hear they "rent" tools out. I think you leave a deposit and you get it all back! Love free stuff!

Thanks Bill and Danny about the gasket. Yeah, Easy, I marked the chain and the sprocket on the camshaft. I couldn't turn the engine as it's seized up by something,so I couldn't access the bolts to take the sprocket off the camshaft, but there was enough play after removing the chain tensioner(?) to slip the chain off.

Thanks guys. Off to the parts store with me!

[dannylightning]

Thanks Blaine, Danny and Bonehead . Bone, can I call ya Bone? Yeah, I'm gonna go to Autozone. I hear they "rent" tools out. I think you leave a deposit and you get it all back! Love free stuff!

Thanks Bill and Danny about the gasket. Yeah, Easy, I marked the chain and the sprocket on the camshaft. I couldn't turn the engine as it's seized up by something,so I couldn't access the bolts to take the sprocket off the camshaft, but there was enough play after removing the chain tensioner(?) to slip the chain off.

Thanks guys. Off to the parts store with me!

yes sir, auto zone will rent you tools. you do get a full refund when you bring it back.

[bonehead]

Bone is fine with me.

[tommyjoebilly]

I opened up the cover on the left side that exposes the flywheel (?) and the gear on the starter and the starter idle gear which is the go between. This gear had several teeth chipped off. So, I will have to replace that and the starter (bad teeth too!). I still haven't seen what's jamming the engine, so it must be in the transmission. I think I will have to remove the engine from the bike in order to work on that. This is kinda fun, I'm learning as I go. :popcorn:
http://s2.postimage.org/4BBi.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Ts4BBi)

[bonehead]

Good luck with it.

[dannylightning]

I opened up the cover on the left side that exposes the flywheel (?) and the gear on the starter and the starter idle gear which is the go between. This gear had several teeth chipped off. So, I will have to replace that and the starter (bad teeth too!). I still haven't seen what's jamming the engine, so it must be in the transmission. I think I will have to remove the engine from the bike in order to work on that. This is kinda fun, I'm learning as I go. :popcorn:
http://s2.postimage.org/4BBi.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Ts4BBi)

where did the chipped off teeth get to ?? did you find them, i don't know much about this kind of thing but i would think the teeth could be in there jamming something up if you did not find them.

[BillInGA]

Yikes! That looks ... unpleasant. :sad:

Best of luck. Make sure you get all the little metal bits out before you put everything back together.

[patrick_777]

I guess you found your marble-sound. Yuck.

Take plenty of pics and post the progress up. This could be a learning experience for a lot of folks.

[tommyjoebilly]

In automobiles, the gear on the starter pops out to engage the flywheel. I examined the starter, and it has no such device, so I'm thinking, "Is the starter motor engaged the entire time? That doesn't make sense.". There is something in that encasement on the left side called a "Starter Clutch"? I'm guessing it has some sensor or centrifugal force device that disengages it with the Starter Idler Gear. I'm wondering if that part is what made my starter lose teeth, which in turn made the SIG lose teeth, which put chips into the gears in the tranny, (that lived in the house that Jack built) that led to my bike breaking down. Kind of a "domino effect".
Prior to it "locking up", the starter had made noises like a fork caught in the garbage disposal MANY times. It bothered me, but I thought, "eh, fuggedaboutit". I must check out this part to see if it's functioning properly. I don't want a "sequel".

[tommyjoebilly]

Alright, Patrick. I am now in the process of removing the engine. I tried to turn the engine and it wouldn't budge. Something is jammed in the tranny. I flattened the lock washer on the front sprocket (very nice idea that has a washer with one side bent up against the nut, kinda like how a cotter pin is used on auto wheels, to ensure it won't come loose.) I had to go to AutoZone to rent a 30 mm socket. It's free, btw. I put it on my rachet and got my muscles ready for a fight. My 8 yr. old daughter could have loosened it! The manual says that if you have difficulty, you can loosen the chain tightener on the wheel sprocket. I used ALL of my strength to loosen that bolt, but no deal. I went to buy a breaker bar (a longer "rachet" tool, which doesn't rachet, but gives you some LEVERAGE) and they wanted 32 bucks for a two footer with a half inch drive. Sigh. I thought nah, I'll find a used one on ebay. After thinking about it, I'm just going to push the engine back and that will loosen the chain enough to allow me to remove the sprocket.
http://s3.postimage.org/RgObJ.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=PqRgObJ)

[music man]

Wait, did you loosen the axle nut THEN try to turn the adjustment bolt, or did you just try and turn the adjustment bolt?

[tommyjoebilly]

So now, I have to remove the connection between the clutch and your handlebar thingy. I first tried to loosen the splined gear thing, but no go! I took out the cotter pin, but there wasn't enough clearance to remove the pin, so DON'T TRY IT! And the engineers did a REALLY asinine thing in having the bracket containing Philips head screws??? Why????? Philips head screws are the WORST to remove when they are locked up. I got one screw loosened and screwed up the second one. And then Mcguyver spoke to me. "Bend the bracket to release the cable!" So I did! Sucess! :rawk:
http://s1.postimage.org/kgQmr.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxkgQmr)

http://s2.postimage.org/aShMJ.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=TsaShMJ)

http://s3.postimage.org/RiqsA.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=PqRiqsA)

[tommyjoebilly]

And the gear shifter assembly, from the thing you use your foot to change gears to the engine. You must disconnect this, obviously to remove the engine. That splined gear thing is SO locked in by corrosion that I don't think it can be taken off, maybe with a gear puller. I'm thinking it's much easier to just loosen both sides of the 'adjustment rod' and take the damn rod out, rather than monkeying around with this nightmare.
http://s4.postimage.org/DBbLr.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aVDBbLr)

[tommyjoebilly]

No, Music, I loosened the adjustment bolt first. The axle bolt looked like Superman himself had tightened it. It was bent outa shape!

[blaine]

And the gear shifter assembly, from the thing you use your foot to change gears to the engine. You must disconnect this, obviously to remove the engine. That splined gear thing is SO locked in by corrosion that I don't think it can be taken off, maybe with a gear puller. I'm thinking it's much easier to just loosen both sides of the 'adjustment rod' and take the damn rod out, rather than monkeying around with this nightmare.
http://s4.postimage.org/DBbLr.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aVDBbLr)

you need to get gear-shift leaver off the shaft.Remove bolt from leaver spread open with straight screw-driver, leaver will slide off splines.

[tommyjoebilly]

Thanks Blaine, I tried that, but it did not move!!! I like the path of least resistance, if you catch my drift.

[music man]

No, Music, I loosened the adjustment bolt first. The axle bolt looked like Superman himself had tightened it. It was bent outa shape!


So it was the axle bolt you couldn't get loose? I am confused, maybe I just missed something, I will go back and read it again.

[alantf]

So it was the axle bolt you couldn't get loose? I am confused,

So am I!... The axle bolt goes side to side across the bike, & needs to be loosened before you move the adjusting bolts (which stick out of the back of the bike) The way you've written it up, you've tried to move the adjusting bolt without loosening the axle bolt............. or have you done it the correct way, but just written it up wrong? :??: :cry:

[tommyjoebilly]

I thought I responded to this post already. Maybe I didn't click "submit" :retard: I wanted to loosen the chain so I could get the sprocket off at the engine. I did loosen the adjustment nut first, as I didn't know what I was doing. The axle bolt, I now realize has to be loosened on both sides so the wheel can be moved forward. I couldn't budge it and didn't have a breaker bar, so I figured I would get slack on the other end, by moving the engine backwards.

[blaine]

The axel bolt only has to be loosened on the cotter-key side and held from turning on other side.Axel must be loosened before adjusters will move.

[tommyjoebilly]

http://s1.postimage.org/njlrr.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxnjlrr)
SUCCESS!! :rawk: Remember in the Indiana Jones movie where that wicked guy pulls the heart out of his victim? Well, I got that engine off the bike!! Like Dick Van Dyke in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, I'm gonna work on that sucker in seclusion until it's fixed :hide:

If you recall, I had a problem with getting the chain sprocket off of the engine as I didn't have enough slack. In the manual, it says to leave the pivot screw in (that's the big one, toward the back of the engine) but I took that one out third from last as I wanted to pivot on another mounting bolt to give me slack. It's hard to explain, but it worked. Got my slack and the sprocket came off with ease.

I also couldn't get the gearshift clevis(?) off, so I loosened both sides of the adjustment rod and unscrewed it. (If you do this, keep in mind that one side is a left hand thread and the other side is a right hand thread) In my mind, this is WAY easier than fighting with that thing!
http://s2.postimage.org/fMj1J.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=TsfMj1J)

I also had a problem with the clutch cable bracket. They have Philips head screws on there for some ungodly reason! There is nothing worse than trying to remove Philips screws that have been exposed to the elements. After much usage of bad language, I thought, "what would MacGuyver do?" So I bent the bracket to release the cable!
http://s2.postimage.org/fMRXJ.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=TsfMRXJ)

http://s2.postimage.org/fN5VA.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=TsfN5VA)

[tommyjoebilly]

The axel bolt only has to be loosened on the cotter-key side and held from turning on other side.Axel must be loosened before adjusters will move.

Thanks Blaine. I will use that when I have to adjust someday. And buy a breaker bar!

[Water Warrior 2]

A little helpful trivia for all. Phillips head screws in Japanese bikes require a Japanese Phillips screw driver to fit properly. There is a slight difference in their design and our SAE stuff just slips and ruins the heads eventually. MY answer to that is using an impact driver as a screw driver because it does fit better. The assortment of screw driver ends are good quality and will fit a couple different size heads. The bonus is you get to use a hammer if things get really stuck or you want things really tight. Cheap at tool discount houses.

[alantf]

Japanese bikes require a Japanese Phillips screw driver to fit properly. There is a slight difference in their design and our SAE stuff just slips and ruins the heads eventually.

The "Japanese" Phillips screw driver is actually called "pozidriv". They're available everywhere in England. A tip! - If you haven't got a pozidriv, grind the end off a phillips (slightly) as pozidriv actually does have a flat end. :2tup:

[Water Warrior 2]

Japanese bikes require a Japanese Phillips screw driver to fit properly. There is a slight difference in their design and our SAE stuff just slips and ruins the heads eventually.

The "Japanese" Phillips screw driver is actually called "pozidriv". They're available everywhere in England. A tip! - If you haven't got a pozidriv, grind the end off a phillips (slightly) as pozidriv actually does have a flat end. :2tup:
Oh goody, I have some extra screw drivers to experiment with. Thanks a bunch Alantf, now I know what to look for.

[dannylightning]

a breaker bar to get the axel bolt loose, the torque on the rear axel is only supposed to be tightened to something like 50lbs of torque unless it is rusty or corroded it should be easy to get off. don't remember exactly the amount of torque needed so do not go by what i have just said, but i'm pretty sure it was 50 some lbs. i used a torque wrench i got at auto zone to tighten it up, i may have used it to get the wheel off too, cant remember but it cost about 10 dollars. make sure you put in a new cotter pin after removing the old one.

[alantf]

i used a torque wrench ........... i may have used it to get the wheel off too,

Not a good idea. You should use a spanner (wrench?) The torque wrench is used to TIGHTEN to the correct torque. If the nut has been tightened up too tight, you stand a chance of damaging the torque wrench. :) Also, the last one that I borrowed (a few years ago) had a ratchet that only worked clockwise, to stop you loosening the nuts with it. Dunno how that would have worked on a left hand thread :cry:

[bonehead]

47 ft/lbs IIRC.

[bonehead]

i used a torque wrench ........... i may have used it to get the wheel off too,

Not a good idea. You should use a spanner (wrench?) The torque wrench is used to TIGHTEN to the correct torque. If the nut has been tightened up too tight, you stand a chance of damaging the torque wrench. :) Also, the last one that I borrowed (a few years ago) had a ratchet that only worked clockwise, to stop you loosening the nuts with it. Dunno how that would have worked on a left hand thread :cry:
:plus1:

Most quality torque wrenches DO have the capabilities to torque lt and rt hand bolts.

[dannylightning]

i used a torque wrench ........... i may have used it to get the wheel off too,

Not a good idea. You should use a spanner (wrench?) The torque wrench is used to TIGHTEN to the correct torque. If the nut has been tightened up too tight, you stand a chance of damaging the torque wrench. :) Also, the last one that I borrowed (a few years ago) had a ratchet that only worked clockwise, to stop you loosening the nuts with it. Dunno how that would have worked on a left hand thread :cry:
:plus1:

Most quality torque wrenches DO have the capabilities to torque lt and rt hand bolts.

my torque wrench is basically a long bar and you operate it by hand, it has a little gauge that lets you know how much pressure you are putting on it, think it was 12 bucks. just a really long bar with a socket fitting on the end a a guage that lets you know how much pressure you are applying.. so if you are taking some thing off that says 47 lbs of torque, you can also see how much pressure you are using to try and loosen something, if you pay attention to that and see it is taking way more pressure than it should to loosen you know not to crank down much harder on it and break something off that is stuck.

that is my opinion on it.

[patrick_777]

There are several types of torque wrenches, some more accurate than others. In that light, you DO get what you pay for. I use a torque wrench about twice a year or so, so I went with the cheap breaker kind (internal linkage that "snaps" when you reach the set torque). I've also used the one Danny is talking about (the gauge type) and they work just fine too. The pricier ones use digital gizmos and whatsits in side and feed the actual tension to a digital thingy that beeps or vibrates or sends an email or something when you reach the right torque.

As long as you're in the range (not over or under by a lot), then you're probably good with the cheaper ones. Just ballparking it without a torque wrench is not a good idea though, because what FEELS like 20lbs of torque to you could easily be 50, or 5 depending on the bolt, threading, the wrench, any bike movement, the weather, your joints, muscles, sinuses, etc etc. Too many variables.

[bonehead]

There are several types of torque wrenches, some more accurate than others. In that light, you DO get what you pay for. I use a torque wrench about twice a year or so, so I went with the cheap breaker kind (internal linkage that "snaps" when you reach the set torque). I've also used the one Danny is talking about (the gauge type) and they work just fine too. The pricier ones use digital gizmos and whatsits in side and feed the actual tension to a digital thingy that beeps or vibrates or sends an email or something when you reach the right torque.

As long as you're in the range (not over or under by a lot), then you're probably good with the cheaper ones. Just ballparking it without a torque wrench is not a good idea though, because what FEELS like 20lbs of torque to you could easily be 50, or 5 depending on the bolt, threading, the wrench, any bike movement, the weather, your joints, muscles, sinuses, etc etc. Too many variables.
:plus1:

[tommyjoebilly]

I have just been schooled on torque wrenches. I love it. Thanks. I'm mezmerized by that cat in your profile pic, btw, Patrick.

[Water Warrior 2]

Warning, do not lube the threads before torquing or you will be way too tight. Think CLEAN DRY threads.

[tommyjoebilly]

That makes sense, WW. Less resistance equals inaccurate reading. Nice.

[Water Warrior 2]

That makes sense, WW. Less resistance equals inaccurate reading. Nice.
That's another one of those things I learned from experience. Used to lube the nuts when rotating tires on the cage. Needed a 4 foot cheater bar to remove the nuts next time round. You can also warp the disc brakes a bunch.

[tommyjoebilly]

I FOUND THE MARBLE!! :biggrin: I was gonna try to open up the crankcase, but I didn't have a special tool, so I was surveying the situation and noticed something. A scratch on the starter clutch mechanism. It looked like that monster on the the airplane wing from the Twilight Zone movie had scratched it. I then noticed (page 52 in the manual) the starter driven wheel (about as big as a CD with holes in it) had some chunk of metal in one of the hole and part of the casting of the engine was a little mangled as it jammed between the gear and the wall. I was able to knock it free a little bit and for the first time, I could turn the engine!!! :2tup: Small victory, but at least I now know that that was was had jammed it.
The only problem is, I have no idea where that piece came from. It looks like a pin with a mushroom type head about maybe 8 mm in diameter. It kinda looks like a button head screw without the threads.
http://s3.postimage.org/ilcPJ.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s1.postimage.org/Lh2Oi.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxLh2Oi)

[alantf]

Gotta problem, trying to enlarge the photo. When I click on it, it's sending me to postimage.org. Can you reload it? :cry:

[blaine]

To me that looks like a sheared off rivet.Don't know were it's from.Maybe the clutch area?I would take the rivet to your dealer he might have seen this problem before.

[tommyjoebilly]

Alan, the photo is that monster from the movie looking in at John Lithgow. It's not of the engine :)

[tommyjoebilly]

Blaine. Yeah, that's a good idea. I'll bring it to the dealer or the nearby motorcycle repair shop.

[alantf]

Alan, the photo is that monster from the movie looking in at John Lithgow. It's not of the engine :)

My old eyes.............................................! :cry:

[tommyjoebilly]

It's hard to see :) I'm wearing reading glasses right now!

So I went the bike shop to ask the guys there what they thought that thing was. They said that it was probably a screw that backed out of the starter clutch assy. I have a guy that does work on the side. I'm hoping he has the "special tool" to get that sucker unscrewed. The nut on the crankshaft that holds the assy on the crankshaft.

[tommyjoebilly]

Ok, I'm waving the white flag here, as I'm losing my home and have to move. I don't have the bucks to buy a starter clutch assy, starter and starter idler gear. I just want to sell it as is, disassembled. Does anyone have any idea about how I should go about selling it? Thanks for all your advice guys.

[JWR]

Not to the bearer of bad news,but...

1. Winter sales always bring less money.
2. Non running bikes are very hard to sell.
3. What kind of $$$ are you looking for.
4. Local ad or craigslist with pictures.


Good luck.

[tommyjoebilly]

Thanks JWR. :)

[jonathan180iq]

Take some good photos and write a good explanation of what's going on and post it here in the classifieds.
People have been having good luck moving bikes lately.

Also, there is always a market for parting a bike out.
Just saying.

Best of luck,
Jonathan

[tommyjoebilly]

Thank you very much for your advice, Jonathan!