Finally Home!

[ruxpin76]

Got my GZ250 back from the Stealership today... Here's a brief synopsis of the saga:

- Bought bike after inspecting but not riding it (saw owner ride up/down short driveway), for $1100. 2002, smoke grey tank.
Known issue at this time was (1) stripped exhaust bolt (lower right, if looking at pipes from front) and idle issue (wouldn't run w/o 3/4 of choke on. Handed over cash, did title transfer, trailered directly to dealer for inspection and new Kenda Cruiser tires.

- After 1.5 wks, inspection was done. Went to pick up, when there service tech said "yeah, we heli-coiled that exhaust stud, and the bike passed inspection. BTW, you do know that you have a blown head gasket, right?" $200 bill for service and tires, not including head issue. GREAT. Worrying commenced, as head issues never "fix themselves". I know this from racing high performance 2-cycle and 4-cycle karts.

- Decided to leave with dealer as I'd just gotten a job and ride time was disappearing anyhow. I was headed out of town for a few days, figured I'd let the dealer take care of it.

- Picked up today, dealer showed me work done and old head gasket. All 4 exhaust studs replaced with anti-seize treated cap screws. 0.010" shaved from head to re-square it, new gasket installed, dealer also said that some people drill out the cover on bottom of carb and adjusting fuel screw, but he couldn't do it due to legality issues. ;) Bike now idles and runs great. Rode home, followed by wife in car, about 20 mi. First time I've ridden in 2 years, after 1st turn, it all came back and enjoyed ride w/o stressing too much by 10 min. in. Stalled once at first stop due to wiggly shift lever (too much slop).

Now I've seafoamed the tank and added some fresh 89 (old gas seemed fine, but who knows...) and will perform the carb screw service tomorrow. Also removed previous owners' windscreen that was rusted and installed improperly, damaging top of tank....grrrrr!

That's it for now. Seems to run great, will commence practicing every chance I get. I've not taken the MSF course yet, but will, and I've previously ridden my dad's Savage 650 (docile cruiser) and brother's 1992 Katana 750 (heavy, but peppy bike!) about 2 years ago. It's nice to have the bike sitting in my garage for the first time, and first "fun ride" will be tomorrow.

BTW, I've notice that countersteering takes over around 15-20 mph -- does that seem about right? As I continue riding and things "slow down" (ie. less mental effort required) I'll be working on smoothing my technique and timing my downshifts a bit better. Do y'all shift with or without clutch once you're moving? The Katana handled shifts no problem, but this GZ seems a little notchy... Ciould be the aforementioned shifter issue. Anyhow, glad to be truly a part of the club now, and will report on what I do. I plan to cafe the front and rear, including an aftermarket cafe style tank that's a bit narrower. Anyone done this? Suggestions? I'd like to preserve capacity, however. That's it for now. G'night, ~Ted in King, NC

[ruxpin76]

Oh, and dealer checked valve lash when redoing head...he said whenever the cam cover's disturbed that this should be done. I brought it up, but he said "Good to check on, but I never leave things halfway..." He machined the head himself at home (he's a schooled machinist) and I presume that saved me $$. Bill for head gasket and machining and 3 cap screws for exhaust was another $191. Total: $1100 cash for bike + $200 insurance and tags + $400 repairs = $1700 on the road with all known issues already taken care of and fresh tires. Not too bad...

[Easy Rider]

Now I've seafoamed the tank and added some fresh 89 (old gas seemed fine, but who knows...) and will perform the carb screw service tomorrow.

Good story; thanks for posting.

Just 2 comments: Your bike will run just fine with 87 octane regular; really it will.
If, as you state, it runs and idles just fine.......there is NO REASON to mess with the idle mixture screw.

[Water Warrior 2]

Sounds like you are well on your way to a fun time. Be sure to not get too aggressive during cornering with the new tires. They have a coating on them to help release the tire from the mold. A few miles of just cruisin and smilin should do it.

[patrick_777]

Good story. Sucks that you had that much trouble right out of the chute though.

Countersteering generally takes over around the 6 mph mark, plus or minus depending on a number of factors.

This is a GREAT article on countersteering. Should be a must read for everybody. (http://www.msgroup.org/Tip.aspx?Num=048&Set=)

[alanmcorcoran]

So I guess $1700 is good entry point for excellent condition GZ resale...

[patrick_777]

Location is everything.

[alantf]

Do y'all shift with or without clutch once you're moving? The Katana handled shifts no problem, but this GZ seems a little notchy...

I've had my gz around 3 years now, & yes, it's the "notchiest" gearshift I've ever known. Never seems 100% smooth. Especially when trying to find first when you pull up at a junction. Trick is to get into first before you stop. And yes again, you will find that you do need to use the clutch for every gear change. Although if you are an experienced rider/gear shifter you may find that you don't need 100% pull in of the clutch for every downshift - you should be able to "feel" it. :2tup:

[dhgeyer]

Welcome to the funhouse!

Generally the smoothest shifts are accomplished with preloading the shift lever and "just enough" clutch to let it slip between gears. Takes practice. While you're learning the basics, I'd say pull it in all the way and shift like you would a car. Not as smooth, but won't hurt anything. As alantf points out, it's a lot easier to get it into first while you're still moving slowly. This is what they will teach you in the course. It's safer to leave it in gear at stoplights/signs anyway in case you have to quickly move out of the way of the inattentive driver barreling up behind you, for which maneuver you hopefully left room in front of yourself.

Clutchless, or "speed" shifting is hard on the bike unless you get it perfect every time - basically a racing technique. Using a little clutch is smoother and better. However, it is good to know that you can shift without the clutch in case the clutch cable breaks, which can happen. I wouldn't do a long trip that way, but it'll get you home without having to pay for a tow.

[ruxpin76]

So I guess $1700 is good entry point for excellent condition GZ resale...

Around here, any running bike in good shape you can figure around $1500. There's a bunch of used stuff for less, but they all have "open titles", no titles, are in pieces, or as Craigslist posters are fond of "just needs a little TLC" (which we all know really means complete rebuild because this should've been called a parts bike).

I will make some rider reports as I continue...

Thanks for the input -- will switch back to 87

[ruxpin76]

Went for 52.4 miles today, perfect weather -- 70*, light breeze. Some observations...

-- Noticed right off that I had been stopping with front brake only -- corrected that to almost unconscious level by end of ride.
-- I'm 145# and had no problem getting my GZ to 70-75 on the highway, even maintaining that uphill BUT it was an unpleasant level of wind, noise, and revs compared to 45-55mph around town cruising. Confirmed what I already suspected, that this bike is a perfect backroad and around town cruiser, not a tire-blistering Hayabusa.
-- Noticed occasional "popping" rumbling from exhaust at idle after riding a while...assume it's a mild lean condition?
-- No fluids leaking -- yay!
-- Shifted with clutch (most of the time) occasionally downshifted w/o, but matched revs and it was MUCH smoother today. Will find that light slip-point on clutch and continue to use it.
-- Chicken strips around .75" still, but that's okay, considering the mold release on the tires and the fact that I was just cruising, not trying to push it. I did a couple swerve practices and turns withing a 2 parking space box.

This bike is just plain fun, and I wish I'd ridden it first -- it's a nice balance of weight and power to inspire confidence but still yield capable performance. I will probably keep it a couple years before considering upgrade, or will keep it for wife once I get a sportbike.

[dannylightning]

Be sure to not get too aggressive during cornering with the new tires. They have a coating on them to help release the tire from the mold. A few miles of just cruisin and smilin should do it.

yep you new tires will be a little slipery for the first 100 miles, i always give it about 150 miles or so before i stop being really careful around corners, my last set of tires had a little yellow line on them, that little yellow line started wearing off around 80 mile and around 140 miless it was almost gone, i think that might have been the safe to take corners hard line hahaha...

[Water Warrior 2]

Ruxpin, watched your video and you look pretty good. Comment on the front brake for you. During the last few feet before your complete stop try to ease off the front a bit more. You will get less bounce from the front end and the bike will be steadier overall and a lot smoother. A bit too much bounce with the bars turned a little can and will dump you on your butt. I usually try for just a touch on the front and more breaking on the rear during the final few feet. Takes practice but you will like the results.

[alantf]

Noticed occasional "popping" rumbling from exhaust at idle after riding a while...assume it's a mild lean condition?




Can't comment on the "popping/rumbling", but I can always tell when the engine's nice n' hot, because there's a definite change in the exhaust note. :2tup:

[ruxpin76]

There seems to be a little too much front end bounce anyhow, even just from getting on the bike...wonder if fork oil change is in order? Appreciate the advice -- that will sure help... I'll leave well enough alone for a while until I'm more used to riding, then consider changes. :) Cheers, ~Ted

[blaine]

You will find shifting much smoother if you change to sinthetic oil next change.I did,big difference!

[zenbutcher]

Good story. Sucks that you had that much trouble right out of the chute though.

Countersteering generally takes over around the 6 mph mark, plus or minus depending on a number of factors.

This is a GREAT article on countersteering. Should be a must read for everybody. (http://www.msgroup.org/Tip.aspx?Num=048&Set=)

Patrick - Thanks so much for that link.. I've spent the last 3-4 hours reading off and on while at work. The story about Karen really got me. It is a 'must read' as far as I am concerned. It really drives home the realization of what can happen if you're not careful at all times while riding.

Thanks again!