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DrJimmy
10-21-2009, 01:29 PM
Just got my Lic finally at the age of 46. So I thought I start off slow and picked up this 2000 a few weeks ago.
Of course it's already time to get ready for the winter and I'm looking for some advice..

http://s2.postimage.org/d33SS.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Tsd33SS)

Easy Rider
10-21-2009, 01:54 PM
Of course it's already time to get ready for the winter and I'm looking for some advice..


Regarding what exactly ??
Storage......winter riding.......???????

The first can be found with a search here and as for riding in the winter time.....don't. :biggrin:

burkbuilds
10-24-2009, 01:21 PM
Welcome to the forum! Hope you love your bike, I stated riding again at age 44 after about a 25 year lay off, and I'm hooked again. If you plan to store it for a while, I would at least recommend draining all the fuel out of it or you will probably have gum and varnish build up and bad fuel too when it's time to ride again in the spring. There's probably more you should do, check the posts like Easy Rider recommended, it's not a problem for me down south, I ride all year round pretty much every day.

mrlmd1
10-26-2009, 10:41 AM
Rather than draining the fuel out and emptying the tank, another recommended option is to totally fill it to make the air space in the tank as small as possible and eliminate condensation (water) forming in the tank, add a fuel stabilizer, run it for a while to circulate that into the carb, and change the oil before storing it. Lube the chain with whatever you want so it doesn't sit and get rusty. Clean and wax it up before you lay it up, it's easier to clean if off in the spring if it just sits in a corner somewhere for many months. Check the tires pressure, roll it around a little every few weeks. Charge up the battery periodically with a battery tender or small output charger. Start it up and run it for 10 - 15 min once every week or two.
Many more tips on here if you search a little.

Easy Rider
10-26-2009, 12:15 PM
Start it up and run it for 10 - 15 min once every week or two.


Can I comment on this without you going off on another tirade ?? :roll:

That was pretty much perfect advice, except for the above. Most "experts" recommend that you NOT do that; that you not start it at all unless you can actually ride it long enough to get it up to normal operating temperature (hot).

mrlmd1
10-26-2009, 01:03 PM
OK, no tirade, just a question - if it sits running for 10-15 min., won't that have it warm up to normal operating temperature? I realize there is no load on the engine but mine seemed to do that within 3-5 min., maybe even less as I no longer needed the choke before I was down to the end of the block for it to be running fine.

Easy Rider
10-26-2009, 02:06 PM
if it sits running for 10-15 min., won't that have it warm up to normal operating temperature?

Yes, mostly. It probably won't hurt anything, really.

I did exactly that for a LOT of years but then saw an opinion or two that said you don't really get the condensation out of the pipes by just idling (and you likely leave a small puddle of rusty water on the floor). Also that everything doesn't circulate completely with long periods at idle.
Then there is the cooling question with an air cooled engine and/or a coolant circulation question with a liquid cooled one.

It is also generally recommended that you don't idle any engine for long periods of time (except those that are designed for it). Big diesels seem to be an exception; maybe they are designed for it.

Then I got to thinking about all the engines we had around the farm that we didn't bother to start up every few weeks during the winter........that lasted what seemed like forever......and I changed my mind.

It is just an opinion.

dannylightning
10-26-2009, 02:21 PM
Rather than draining the fuel out and emptying the tank, another recommended option is to totally fill it to make the air space in the tank as small as possible and eliminate condensation (water) forming in the tank, add a fuel stabilizer, run it for a while to circulate that into the carb, and change the oil before storing it. Lube the chain with whatever you want so it doesn't sit and get rusty. Clean and wax it up before you lay it up, it's easier to clean if off in the spring if it just sits in a corner somewhere for many months. Check the tires pressure, roll it around a little every few weeks. Charge up the battery periodically with a battery tender or small output charger. Start it up and run it for 10 - 15 min once every week or two.
Many more tips on here if you search a little.

i would agree with most of that, but i would take the battery out so it does not set out in the cold all winter, and yes stick the charger on it a few times threw out the winter but keep the battery in side where it is warm, fill her up with gas and put some stabilizer in there, rool it around so the tires dont set in the same exact spot all winter, that way there should not be a chance of getting flat spots in the tires. and every other thing mentioned here but.......


i dont think i would run it much, as some one else mentioned depending now how cold it is. if it is much below 30 degreese i probably would not start it up. warm up times will probably be long in those temperatures and i always hear its not good to run the bike at idle for long periods of time, not much air moving threw the motor at idle..

alantf
10-26-2009, 02:24 PM
Not MY comments - Just copying a paragraph from "the motorcycle handbook" by Ben Gresler, S.A.E. and Kevin M.G. Maher, A.S.E.

The capitals are theirs.

Once you have put it in storage, LEAVE IT ALONE. You can drool on it (as long as you dry it afterwards). You can rub body parts against it (as long as you don't scratch it or remove too much wax). You can get in your leathers, sit on it and go "Vroom . . . Vroom." while spitting on yourself. But don't start it just to listen or to "warm the motor". Idling it won't warm the motor very much, probably will not charge the battery, definitely won't do anything for the drivechain and will most likely leave some condensation in the exhaust to rust your precious pipes and mufflers. LEAVE IT ALONE UNTIL IT IS PROPERLY REMOVED FROM STORAGE.

This comes at the end of 10 pages of good advice on winter storage, so it's up to you whether you take their advice or not. :popcorn:

Easy Rider
10-26-2009, 04:37 PM
i would agree with most of that, but i would take the battery out so it does not set out in the cold all winter,

OK, you would do that; I got no problem with that.....as long as you know that cold is NOT bad for a battery, down to the freezing point of the acid solution.......which is about -20 F or so.

You lose some capacity WHILE it is cold but that's temporary and is regained when it warms up.
The battery will self-discharge LESS in the cold.

So, leaving a little margin for error, my recommendation is to not mess with it unless the temp. will get down to 0 F. and stay there for more than a few hours.

In an unheated shed in Illinios, I have a truck, a tractor and 2 mowers. They all get a shot from the charger about once a month........while still IN the vehicle. My bike is in a partially heated garage so it keeps it's battery too.

Easy Rider
10-26-2009, 04:39 PM
Not MY comments - Just copying a paragraph from "the motorcycle handbook" by Ben Gresler, S.A.E. and Kevin M.G. Maher, A.S.E.

This comes at the end of 10 pages of good advice on winter storage, so it's up to you whether you take their advice or not. :popcorn:

Thank you sir!
Wonder what it says about removing the battery ??
I honestly don't know; never read the book......but probably have heard quotes from it before.

mrlmd1
10-26-2009, 04:46 PM
I should have said," IF YOU WANT TO, you can start it up ......"
I have no problem letting it sit quietly for the winter without starting it up, but the fuel tank should be completely filled, not drained. Unless you can completely seal all openings, vents, etc. from the air.
All agree with that? Recommended in all (excuse me, most of) the marinas for winter storage of boats too.

DrJimmy
10-26-2009, 06:53 PM
I want to thank everyone for all the advice.
It looks like I will storing it in my shed, with a cover, gas topped off, stablizer and battery in the house on a trickle charger.
This is a great siite t

Thanks again

Mark

alantf
10-26-2009, 07:05 PM
but the fuel tank should be completely filled, not drained.

Yes, they mention that, too. Actually, they say :-

Your decision on whether to add fuel stabilizer or to completely drain the system should really depend on how long the bike is going to be stored and how willing you are to go through the trouble. Frankly, adding stabilizer is the easier of the 2 solutions, but for long term storage (again, speaking more in terms of years than months) draining is the better solution.

So, it appears to me that they recommend filling up the tank (see below) & adding stabilizer, if it's just over winter.

They said :- Be sure to TOP-OFF the fuel tank to minimize the amount of air (and therefore moisture) that is present in the tank. If you store a fuel tank with air in it, the moisture will cause rusting on the inside of an uncoated tank and that rust can play havoc with your fuel system come spring.

Easy Rider
10-26-2009, 08:46 PM
and battery in the house on a trickle charger.


Be careful with that. It is neither necessary nor desirable to have the battery charge continuously. Unless you get a fully automatic battery maintainer....like a Battery Tender....then connecting your "trickle charger" for 12 hours a month will be PLENTY.

Water Warrior 2
10-26-2009, 09:50 PM
All good info here. Each of us has a slightly different storage routine so we can use the info to fit our own circumtances and have a bike ready to go in the spring.
We hope to ride a bit during the winter if weather permits but both bikes will have a dose of Stabil in the tank and the batteries will stay in the bikes with a periodic charge from the Battery Tender. Oh yah, also picking up some more TourMaster heated gear at the end of the week. That stuff rocks. Check out Cycle Giant for the full line of heated gear available. Live better electrically.

mrlmd1
10-26-2009, 11:00 PM
First off, the inside of the tank should be painted at least, if not coated, for some rust protection, but also the moisture in the air can condense on the inside walls of the cold tank and can add a significant amount of water into your fuel over a period of time. Not good. That's why you fill the tank, to remove the air space.
As an aside, this is a bigger problem with diesel than gas because mold (fungus) and slime grow in the tank at the fuel/water interface and can clog up filters and/or injectors real quick and is a bitch to get rid of. Diesel tanks also need to be filled and a biocide added to the fuel to prevent this growth during long-term storage.
I'm so glad I moved to Florida from NY/NJ so I don't have to do that shit anymore, although we do get an occasional freeze down here we have to prepare for.

mrlmd1
10-27-2009, 03:40 PM
For interest - this is from the latest issue of Boat US magazine, an article about storing E10 fuel (which a lot of us may have) over the winter. It should apply to E10 in general, not only in boats.

http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/boatus/200911/#/66

burkbuilds
10-29-2009, 12:54 AM
Great article mrlmd1, thanks for sharing the link!

mrlmd1
10-29-2009, 09:56 AM
Thanks for that.
That's supposed to be why we're here, to share some factual as well as interesting and helpful knowledge with our fellow bikers.

oakies
10-29-2009, 05:52 PM
I want to thank everyone for all the advice.
It looks like I will storing it in my shed, with a cover

Thanks again

Mark

If you keep it covered, use a bed sheet or something that will not trap condesation under the cover. Never cover it with a plastic tarp.

mrlmd1
10-29-2009, 06:40 PM
Better yet, bring it into the bedroom. Put the plastic tarp on the floor under it, just in case.

mrlmd1
10-29-2009, 06:48 PM
Seriously, if you store it outside in a shed, stick a rag up into the exhaust to keep critters (mice, bugs, etc) out, not nesting in there. Leave a length of the rag sticking out so you don't forget you jammed it in there for storage, 'cause you won't be able to start the bike in the spring if it's still in there.You'd be surprised at what makes a nice nest in something like an open pipe.

Mercutio57
12-19-2009, 04:43 PM
Just got my license at age 52. It's never too late to have a happy childhood!

Water Warrior 2
12-19-2009, 09:43 PM
Just got my license at age 52. It's never too late to have a happy childhood!

Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

Mercutio57
12-21-2009, 02:46 PM
Exactly!

When I open the garage and see that little black & chrome beauty waiting for me, I'm instantly 17 again, minus the insecurity and angst.

Now I know why so many motorcyclists are "of a certain age!"