Front brake pad troubles...

[RavenousPirate]

Heya guys, I'm trying to replace the front brake pads on my bike as the old ones have worn down to pretty much nothing. I've run into a problem while putting the new pads into place, however...

There doesn't seem to be enough room for them. An earlier topic on this forum suggests that I use the old pads and a screwdriver or pliers to pry them apart and push the piston back so that I have room for the new pads, but I don't know about that. As an alternative, couldn't I drain the brake fluid to make the piston easier to push out of the way, and then replace the fluid once I'm finished?

Sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm pretty new to bike maintenance and such. Thanks.

[Water Warrior 2]

Not a good idea to drain brake fluid. Use some force and push back the brake parts to allow more clearance. Yup, it is a pain in the butt but the best way to proceed.

[dannylightning]

Heya guys, I'm trying to replace the front brake pads on my bike as the old ones have worn down to pretty much nothing. I've run into a problem while putting the new pads into place, however...

There doesn't seem to be enough room for them. An earlier topic on this forum suggests that I use the old pads and a screwdriver or pliers to pry them apart and push the piston back so that I have room for the new pads, but I don't know about that. As an alternative, couldn't I drain the brake fluid to make the piston easier to push out of the way, and then replace the fluid once I'm finished?

Sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm pretty new to bike maintenance and such. Thanks.

you must push back the pistons, you got to find some way to do that, do not drain your fluid you may run it to unwanted complications, and do not squeeze the break lever with the wheel off or you will blow out the pistons.

if your gonna do things do them right when at all possible, and pushing the break pistons back is the correct way to do this.

well on a car i use a c clamp, you might be able to do that on the bike also but not quite sure, have not changed out pads on a bike yet, or if you have some kind of tool that opens up when you squeeze it, stick that between the break pads and open it up.. get creative if you halve to. im sure some one will have some better advice about this than i

[RavenousPirate]

Ugh, okay. Thanks for the quick response!

[Sarris]

Open the bleeder, push the pistons back by hand (some brake fluid will come out of the bleeder) and close the bleeder. Insert the pads and top off the reservoir.

:)

[Easy Rider]

Open the bleeder, push the pistons back by hand (some brake fluid will come out of the bleeder) and close the bleeder. Insert the pads and top off the reservoir.


OK, I didn't want to be the first. :roll:

FORCING the pads back can "blow" the seal on a piston, either in the caliper or the master cylinder. The system is designed for the fluid to push the pads; NOT the other way around. :cry:

I like the "Sarris method" much better.......unless you lose your grip on the piston and it sucks in some air. (No, never happened.......... :whistle: )

[dannylightning]

Open the bleeder, push the pistons back by hand (some brake fluid will come out of the bleeder) and close the bleeder. Insert the pads and top off the reservoir.


OK, I didn't want to be the first. :roll:

FORCING the pads back can "blow" the seal on a piston, either in the caliper or the master cylinder. The system is designed for the fluid to push the pads; NOT the other way around. :cry:


hmmm unless things are a little different on a motorcycle i have been pushing them back for years, and so has my dad who took auto mechanics in highschool , i have a good friend that fixes cars for a living. he does it the same way as i do,

you just got to do it nice and slow or you could possibly blow something out, i personally would not open the bleeder for any reason other than bleeding the breaks.

am i saying easy is wrong there NO im not fully trained mechanic but that goes against every thing i have been tought.
i dont know what the service manual says to do but you can download it off if this site, it should have good instructions on how to do this.

[music man]

I used a C-clamp on mine, like danny said, you just easily push it in, not all the way till it bottoms out, just enough to get the brake pads back in there, and the gz only has one piston if my memory serves me correctly, my intruder has two. You have plenty of pressure space in there as long as you don't have the brake lever squeezed when you do it, of course if you did that, the brake piston will shoot all the way out, if you don't have pads on it and have it mounted on the bike when you do it.

One more thing, i wouldn't use the old brake pad screwdriver method, you could push the piston back unevenly, and that is not good, just put a C-clamp right in the middle of the piston cup, and tighten it down slowly, and not very much and you should be fine.

[dannylightning]

the gz only has one piston if my memory serves me correctly, my intruder has two.

i think i remember reading that there is only one piston on the gz.

[bonehead]

Open the bleeder, push the pistons back by hand (some brake fluid will come out of the bleeder) and close the bleeder. Insert the pads and top off the reservoir.


OK, I didn't want to be the first. :roll:

FORCING the pads back can "blow" the seal on a piston, either in the caliper or the master cylinder. The system is designed for the fluid to push the pads; NOT the other way around. :cry:

I like the "Sarris method" much better.......unless you lose your grip on the piston and it sucks in some air. (No, never happened.......... :whistle: )
:plus1: Cars and trucks have a much bigger master cylinder, thus the fluid can be pushed "upstream". Opening the bleader is the best way to insure you don't damage the master cylinder on the bike.