Handlebar Length

[jamezgreen]

Hi, can someone tell me how long the stock handlebars should be on a 2003 GZ250? I suspect the bars on mine are aftermarket since they seem particularly small, maybe 30" across. Another thing that makes me suspicious is that when I turn them completely from side to side, the control boxes hit the gas tank and will ding it up if I'm not careful. Is this normal? Where can I find some larger stock bars if these are too small? And finally is it that hard to swap them out? Sorry for all the questions!

James

[patrick_777]

That's not normal, but you may be able to loosen them and "push" them forward a little to make them stand up straighter/taller. I don't have the standard bar dimensions right here, but you might can do a search and find them.

[Dupo]

http://www.sideroadcycles.com/ImportedM ... rsOne.html (http://www.sideroadcycles.com/ImportedMotorcycles/ImportHandlebars/StockBarsOne.html)

[jamezgreen]

So I checked out Dupo's chart. Thanks. My handlebars are about the right width and center but the pullback and height fall way short. Having a hard time finding handlebars that actually meet the sizes specified on the chart. (7" rise, 28" width, 10" pullback, 6" center) Any ideas on where I might find some used/new handlebars??

[alantf]

Do you know if the bike's been in a smash? I'm not saying it has, but people (including myself) have found that bent handlebars are the first thing that happens when the gz goes over. I was just wondering why the previous owner would put smaller bars on. Might be worth checking for any signs of the bike going over, such as grazes/scrapes. :)

[Dupo]

GO HERE: http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-motorc ... 04/o/m6283 (http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-motorcycle-gz250-2004/o/m6283)

Then enter this part number in search: 1484229-001

$68.63

[jamezgreen]

ok got my new handlebars here. They look like a way better fit. I've looked our the service manual on handlebar removal/install. I'm gonna have a go at it this weekend. Any tips or advice, tricks of the trade anyone might offer? thanks.

[patrick_777]

ok got my new handlebars here. They look like a way better fit. I've looked our the service manual on handlebar removal/install. I'm gonna have a go at it this weekend. Any tips or advice, tricks of the trade anyone might offer? thanks.

Don't try to completely unscrew the bar ends. Just loosen them a little, then pull them out...

[jamezgreen]

OK. The new bars are on... and they're awesome. Feels like a completely different bike. Much more comfortable ride and looks better to. Do have a few questions: 1. My front brake is gone. I've tried to bleed the line and the handle is pumping plenty of fluid, what am I missing?? 2. I think I need new bar ends since I can pull them out if I pull hard enough (don't think that should happen but not sure.

[5th_bike]

1. My front brake is gone [...] 2. I think I need new bar ends since I can pull them out if I pull hard enough (don't think that should happen but not sure.

Don't know about the brake, however you should be able to tighten the handlebar ends with a phillips-/cross-head screw driver, to make them fit more snugly.

[alantf]

My front brake is gone. I've tried to bleed the line and the handle is pumping plenty of fluid,

o.k. let's get EXACT :) What do you mean by " the brake is gone"? Was it working before you changed the bars? Does it work at all? Does it grate when you use it? Is the fluid coming out all the time, or just out of the bleeding nipple when you loosen it?

Afraid that until you say EXACTLY what's happening, or happened, there's a million things it COULD be. :cry:

[jamezgreen]

No problem. I guess I'm not getting pressure build up in the line enough to compress the disc brake at all. When I pump the brake lever, fuild will squirt out of the bleed nipple accordingly, and there is plenty of fluid in the resivoir. However, the brake pad doesn't engage at all. Not even little bit. It's weird. I did have to re-route some cabeling with the new bars to better accomate and I disconnected the brake line where it meets the resivoir on the handlebars briefly but that was it. ??

[Sarris]

You need to properly re-bleed the brakes using someone else to pump the lever for you.

The procedure is, be sure the bleeder on the caliper is closed. Then pump the lever 5 times and hold. Open the bleeder on the caliper, releasing fluid and air. Close the bleeder and then release the lever.

Repeat until the lever feels firm again. (4 or 5 times is usually sufficient) Be sure you keep the fluid reservoir full.

Don't pump the lever when the bleeder is open because when you release it will pull in air and defeat the process.

:)

[alantf]

You need to properly re-bleed the brakes using someone else to pump the lever for you.

The procedure is, be sure the bleeder on the caliper is closed. Then pump the lever 5 times and hold. Open the bleeder on the caliper, releasing fluid and air. Close the bleeder and then release the lever.

Repeat until the lever feels firm again. (4 or 5 times is usually sufficient) Be sure you keep the fluid reservoir full.

Don't pump the lever when the bleeder is open because when you release it will pull in air and defeat the process.

:)

Or see my post on bleeding (in detail):- "troubleshooting" - "in connection front brake lever problem - Now screwed up" :)

[jamezgreen]

Ok, this front brake is driving me crazy. I've been trying to bleed it for 3 days now. Just can't get enough pressure build up in the line to work the caliper. Brake fluid only comes out of the bleed nipple if I lossen it quite a bit not just 1 turn as you would think. I went out and bought a bleed kit, bottle of dot 4 brake fluid and I've been pumping that brake lever like a mad dog but no luck. ??? Is there something I should/can be checking on the master cylinder itself?

[jamezgreen]

As an additional note. I haven't been able to get the brake system to pump fluid out the bleeder valve uphill, or through the tubing to a higher elevation in my little bottle. Seems like the pressure just isn't there which makes me suspect the master cylinder even more. But why would it completely die just from disconnecting the brake line once when it was working beautifully before?

[jamezgreen]

Update! I can stop the bike! Another hour in the garage did the trick. Patience is a virtue. Disconnected the brake line a third time at master cylinder put my thumb over the hold had plenty of pressure. Re-attached then disconnected the line where it met the caliper, plenty of pressure there too. Had to play with the bleed nipple to get it just right where air was leaving, and fluid sucking back in and many many brake lever pumps later.... pressure restored. Thanks to all for your help.

[Easy Rider]

Had to play with the bleed nipple to get it just right where air was leaving, and fluid sucking back in and many many brake lever pumps later.... pressure restored. Thanks to all for your help.

Don't want to beat a dead horse BUT.....I think the bulk of your problem is included in your statement above. Sometimes is is virtually impossible to get the air out IF YOU LET FLUID SUCK BACK IN THROUGH THE BLEED NIPPLE.

You should:
Open nipple or banjo bolt or whatever point you want to purge
THEN
pull the lever
THEN
close the bleed point BEFORE releasing the lever <<<<<< THIS IS THE CRITICAL POINT

This will suck additional fluid in through the master cylinder reservoir so you must watch and keep it filled.

Somebody said that earlier but you might have missed the details.