Added Visibility.

[Water Warrior 2]

For those riders out there who would like added lighting for more visibility while riding there is an option. MR-16 LEDs will fit in the el cheapo driving lights from Wally World. The lights only require 1.2 watts each so there is no real power draw to speak of. Two driving lights and the headlight will create a triangular effect and are much easier for cagers to judge distance and speed of an oncoming bike. I recently put the LEDs on the Vstrom and they are much more noticeable than the 20 watt Halogens they replaced. A very sharp white light from lots of little LEDs. Downside is they wouldn't light up the inside of a cow after dark so don't assume they will light up the road after dark. These are a Globe product which might or might not be a good thing. Their Halogen bulbs are junk but the LEDs might be worth it. Free replacement for up to 2 years if they die.

[Easy Rider]

For those riders out there who would like added lighting for more visibility while riding there is an option. MR-16 LEDs will fit in the el cheapo driving lights from Wally World.

Good report.
Available where?
Pictures ??? :)

[alantf]

One thing I've not quite worked out ............ When you add extra lights, what sort of awitch (i.e. shape etc.) do you use, & where do you fit the switch?

[Water Warrior 2]

Found them at Rona home center here in Canada. I also found them online at Autolumination.Com but the price for shipping doubled the price so decided against them at the time(your results may vary). Check out their Garden section for 12 volt LED lights. Lots of colors and various numbers of LEDs. Amber would be an excellant choice and I know Amber works well. Had a couple Amber MR 11 halogens at one time and they are very visible.
As for a switch I wouldn't even bother installing one. With only a slight power draw I would just tap into the tail light circuit and run them full time with a ground directly to the battery. Turn on the key and you have lights.

[alantf]

One thing I've not quite worked out ............ When you add extra lights, what sort of awitch (i.e. shape etc.) do you use, & where do you fit the switch?

Actually, I didn't mean just for THESE lights. I can't quite get my head round how/where to fit a switch for something that I wouldn't want on all the time. :??:

[Water Warrior 2]

One thing I've not quite worked out ............ When you add extra lights, what sort of awitch (i.e. shape etc.) do you use, & where do you fit the switch?

Actually, I didn't mean just for THESE lights. I can't quite get my head round how/where to fit a switch for something that I wouldn't want on all the time. :??:

A quick easy and crude switch bracket. A small piece of flat iron about 1 by 2.5 inches. Drill hole in one end for a toggle switch. Drill another smaller hole in the other end. Remove one bolt from the handle bar clamp and add the flat iron. You will need a longer bolt to do this. Keep in mind there is only about 50 watts extra in the bike's charging system. Lynda's GZ was drawing an extra 40 watts with no problems. To avoid a dead battery by accidently leaving the lights on you could use the tail light circuit to trigger a relay and the relay would supply power to the switch for the lights.

[dannylightning]

One thing I've not quite worked out ............ When you add extra lights, what sort of awitch (i.e. shape etc.) do you use, & where do you fit the switch?

Actually, I didn't mean just for THESE lights. I can't quite get my head round how/where to fit a switch for something that I wouldn't want on all the time. :??:


i think i would use 3m tape and stick the switch under the gas tank out of the way and easy to get to.,

[Easy Rider]

Actually, I didn't mean just for THESE lights. I can't quite get my head round how/where to fit a switch for something that I wouldn't want on all the time. :??:

On the handlebars. I have seen links posted.....but of course didn't save it or remember where I saw it. :cry:

There are rocker switches that claim to be waterproof, mount on the bars and "almost" look like they came with the bike !! :)

[Easy Rider]

With only a slight power draw I would just tap into the tail light circuit and run them full time with a ground directly to the battery. Turn on the key and you have lights.

These lights are mounted of the FRONT, right?
So why would you tap off the TAIL light curcuit when there is battery and ground much closer in the HEAD light wires ?? :shocked:

Just a thought. :biggrin:

Oops.....just as I hit "submit" I realized that doing that, you would have to choose between on with low beam OR on with high beam......and you would probably want both. DUH!

I think it is likely, however, that there is something in the headlight bucket that is hot all the time. Seems like I've heard that there are lots of wires in there.

[Water Warrior 2]

Yes there probably is a hot wire in the headlight bucket and would work for a while. The problem is if it is switched through the ignition switch you will eventually cook the ignition switch. You could of course use that wire to trip a relay that carries the load from the battery to the lights.
As for hiding the off/on switch with 2 sided tape under the tank, not a good idea in my opinion. Might be a pain in the neck to reach easily and just wait till you want to remove the tank with something stuck to the bottom.
One of the main reasons to use the tail light circuit to trip a relay is the ease of access and the relay can be fitted into the end of the frame's backbone opening. A square relay snugs nicely into the round hole with only the terminals showing and allows reasonable access for wiring.

[Easy Rider]

Yes there probably is a hot wire in the headlight bucket and would work for a while. The problem is if it is switched through the ignition switch you will eventually cook the ignition switch.

Mmmmmm.......we ARE talking about LED assembly's.....that have a VERY low current drain...... at 1.2 W each, together they would draw about .2 amps; hardly enough to bother the ignition switch, I would think. :cool:

Now, if we were talking about a light bar with "conventional" bulbs, that is a WHOLE different matter.

[Water Warrior 2]

[quote="Water Warrior":7vltt5xn]Yes there probably is a hot wire in the headlight bucket and would work for a while. The problem is if it is switched through the ignition switch you will eventually cook the ignition switch.

Mmmmmm.......we ARE talking about LED assembly's.....that have a VERY low current drain...... at 1.2 W each, together they would draw about .2 amps; hardly enough to bother the ignition switch, I would think. :cool:

Now, if we were talking about a light bar with "conventional" bulbs, that is a WHOLE different matter.[/quote:7vltt5xn]

Absolutely correct. I was Mind Locked into conventional bulbs when I wrote that. I started remembering a few other forums where guys an gals tapped power from the headlight bucket which was routed via the key and cooked the ignition switch.