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GZ250
04-20-2009, 11:52 PM
Today I went to Walmart to actually see the Rotella oil cans. Until now I have only read the posts about that. They have Rotella T 5W-40 (blue 1g can) for $19. It is full synthetic and it says on the can that it is for gasoline engines also. They also have Rotella T 15W-40 (white 1g can) for $10.50 but on the can it does not say that it is for gasoline engines. It only mentions diesel. On Shell website they mention this oil as multigrade and it is also for gasoline engines. Is it only for big gasoline engines or any gasoline engine (small as GZs)?

There is a difference of $10. So which type is really good. The difference is not that much. I change (oil + filter) every 3000 miles. I use my motorcycle everyday, does not abuse but I drive fast.

Actually I am asking to compare the two types with the standard Suzuki brand. On the scale of 1-10, where is 5W-40 and where is 15W-40. :??:

Thanks a lot.

music man
04-21-2009, 12:05 AM
the 15w 40 is dino oil (in other words its just plain oil, not synthetic) that is why it is cheaper. as for the rest of what your asking, the 15w 40 is a little thick but I have seen people on the internet with old Volkswagen beetles that use it alot, and say it works good, and it has a very small engine (but its still about 7 times the size of the GZ engine) and also you have to be careful using anything that thick when its cold, which is why they (beetle owners) use thinner oil in the winter. the beetle is also air cooled like the GZ. So I don't know if i would use it or not in my GZ, but I do use the 5w40 synthetic and i love it, I have used royal purple, lucas, and the suzuki brand, so far the Rotella synthetic is the best as far as performance and lasting.

patrick_777
04-21-2009, 12:09 AM
The synthetic is exactly what I use on all my bikes. Shifting and running is the smoothest it's ever been. I changed the Shadow over to it after I bought it and was amazed at the difference.

The "Diesel only" dino oil is just fine for wet-clutch motorcycles also.

burkbuilds
04-21-2009, 12:34 AM
I did some work for a company that tested oils a few years ago, and after seeing the significant difference in synthetic over conventional oil, I've never chosen to use conventional again. I used the Shell Rotella 5W-40 Synthetic in three diesel trucks, a cadillac STS with a Northstar engine, two Saturn's, and two Ford Rangers. It's good stuff, now after reading the article somebody linked on the Forum, I plan to use it in my GZ 250. I've been paying about $9.50 a QT for Suzuki's Synthetic oil from the dealer, but I'd rather have the Rotella for less than half the cost!

Easy Rider
04-21-2009, 09:50 AM
but I do use the 5w40 synthetic and i love it,

I use the "blue jug" synthetic in everything I own, including one light duty diesel tractor..........except my bike. Like others have said, it would be fine in there too but I guess I'm a little paranoid when it comes to the bike. I use Mobil 1 synthetic Vtwin; it's 15W40, I think. It is formulated for an air cooled bike. Quite a bit more expensive, however.

Plan to use the Mobil 1 MX Synthetic in the VTX as it recommends a thinner oil, since it is water cooled.

Don't obsess over exactly which oil to use; just pick one and stick with it. Any modern major brand oil will be fine......as long as it isn't labeled as "energy conserving"; synthetic may be a tiny bit better.

primal
04-21-2009, 07:51 PM
I used the Rotella-T synthetic in my GZ250 and loved it. When I got my KZ550, I decided to use the conventional version, mainly because the guys at the KZ forums pretty much unanimously agreed that synthetic oils in these older bikes (with dried out gaskets, etc) isn't a great idea. I don't know how much truth there is to it, but when an entire population of riders riding the same bike as you decide against synthetic, it makes ya think. So far I have had ZERO issues with the conventional oil. Even the Rotella-T conventional is stuff stuff designed for heavy use in diesel engines.

GZ250
04-21-2009, 11:19 PM
today i did the oil and filter change and washed my motorcycle, looks great and runs smooth, gear shifting is really swift and smooth and i feel some difference. will know more after this oil gets old and i get used to it.

Thanks to everyone for replies.

mrlmd1
04-22-2009, 01:27 PM
So which one did you use?

GZ250
04-22-2009, 03:27 PM
i used Rotella T (full synthetic) blue jug.

Water Warrior 2
04-22-2009, 04:27 PM
Would love to try Rotella Synthetic but no one in this area carries it. Not even a shell station. Have been using Amsoil and think it is the best but recently it went up to $20 a liter here. Filters and oil for both bikes would cost $150 minimum. That is just plain retarded.

adrianinflorida
04-22-2009, 05:28 PM
Would love to try Rotella Synthetic but no one in this area carries it. Not even a shell station. Have been using Amsoil and think it is the best but recently it went up to $20 a liter here. Filters and oil for both bikes would cost $150 minimum. That is just plain retarded.
Do you happen to have any truck stops or semi truck repair shops in your area? They'll likely have it.

Water Warrior 2
04-22-2009, 11:45 PM
Would love to try Rotella Synthetic but no one in this area carries it. Not even a shell station. Have been using Amsoil and think it is the best but recently it went up to $20 a liter here. Filters and oil for both bikes would cost $150 minimum. That is just plain retarded.
Do you happen to have any truck stops or semi truck repair shops in your area? They'll likely have it.

I think I will have to find out where the logging trucks are serviced. With the number of diesel pickups in town I sure have to wonder.

David Bo
05-01-2009, 05:51 PM
Isn't Rotella T Synthetic in the blue jug 5W-40 (as opposed to 10W-40)?

music man
05-01-2009, 06:15 PM
Isn't Rotella T Synthetic in the blue jug 5W-40 (as opposed to 10W-40)?


Yep you would be correct, but as far as I know when you are going to synthetic from dino oil, it is perfectly safe to drop the weight of the oil a little. I have been using it for quite some time now, and it works like a charm.

Water Warrior 2
05-01-2009, 06:40 PM
Oh happy day. I just discovered Canadian Tire now has Synthetic Rotella. Hope they continue to stock it on the shelves as it is a bit less than half the price of Amsoil.

music man
05-01-2009, 07:02 PM
Oh happy day. I just discovered Canadian Tire now has Synthetic Rotella. Hope they continue to stock it on the shelves as it is a bit less than half the price of Amsoil.



Then in that case you need to buy about 4 gallons of it, just in case :2tup: .

Easy Rider
05-02-2009, 12:36 PM
Isn't Rotella T Synthetic in the blue jug 5W-40 (as opposed to 10W-40)?

Yes but shouldn't be a problem for anybody except maybe those living in the desert southwest, where the temps get to 120F or above.

primal
05-02-2009, 10:12 PM
[quote="David Bo":1yic3vuo]Isn't Rotella T Synthetic in the blue jug 5W-40 (as opposed to 10W-40)?

Yes but shouldn't be a problem for anybody except maybe those living in the desert southwest, where the temps get to 120F or above.[/quote:1yic3vuo]

Why exactly? At temperature a 5W-40 oil will have the same viscosity as a 10W-40 oil.

Easy Rider
05-03-2009, 02:55 AM
Why exactly? At temperature a 5W-40 oil will have the same viscosity as a 10W-40 oil.

No reason, exactly. I'm just blowing off hot air. :shocked:

In that kind of climate, you probably should have a 50 as the top number.
They both "should" act like a 40W at high temperatures but maybe not exactly like and maybe not exactly the same.

I am not an oil engineer but I have looked at a LOT of owner's manuals for all kinds of vehicles and the recommendations for 5WXX and sometimes even 10WXX oils stops at the upper temperature ranges. I don't know why EXACTLY and I don't especially care. If you DO, maybe you should ask an engine manufacturer.

Water Warrior 2
05-03-2009, 11:27 PM
Why exactly? At temperature a 5W-40 oil will have the same viscosity as a 10W-40 oil.

No reason, exactly. I'm just blowing off hot air. :shocked:

In that kind of climate, you probably should have a 50 as the top number.
They both "should" act like a 40W at high temperatures but maybe not exactly like and maybe not exactly the same.

I am not an oil engineer but I have looked at a LOT of owner's manuals for all kinds of vehicles and the recommendations for 5WXX and sometimes even 10WXX oils stops at the upper temperature ranges. I don't know why EXACTLY and I don't especially care. If you DO, maybe you should ask an engine manufacturer.
At extreme hot temps the lighter oils will break down sooner and cause engine failures. Also some bikes(especially air cooled bikes)will run at higher temps which affect oil life.

primal
05-03-2009, 11:37 PM
My whole point is that I've never heard anyone recommend a different cold weight oil for higher temperatures. Now, if you'd said 20W-50 instead, I'd have agreed with you. ;)

BTW, as far as I know, the additives affect the cold weight of the oil. I.e, a 5W-40 and 10W-40 oil are made from the same 40 weight base, but have a different additive mix for the cold weight.

patrick_777
05-04-2009, 05:05 AM
I have been using it for quite some time now, and it works like a charm.
Ditto, and a LOT of sportbikes and trackbikes use Rotella-T Synthetic as well...and they generally run hotter, at a much higher compression and oil pressure and are usually abused a lot more than the GZ ever will be.

Easy Rider
05-04-2009, 10:37 AM
BTW, as far as I know, the additives affect the cold weight of the oil. I.e, a 5W-40 and 10W-40 oil are made from the same 40 weight base, but have a different additive mix for the cold weight.

If you really care about this stuff, maybe you should research it a bit.
The "stuff" that makes oil multi-viscosity is mainly viscosity improvers.
That is long molecular polymer chains that ball up or string out depending on the temperature.
I don't think that particular "additive" is even petroleum based......but I'm not sure about that.

Bottom line is: I really don't care because minor differences in oil viscosity are just not that important.

patrick_777
05-04-2009, 11:23 AM
The real differences/problems in viscosity usually only manifest themselves long after the time to change it has passed anyway.

Not to be confused here with the Energy-conserving additives, which begin to cause problems immediately in a wet-clutch system.