is a little chatter or chugging when clutch is engaged

[dannylightning]

when the bike is setting there running in nuteral i hear a bit of a chattering sound, if i pull in the clutch the sound completely goes away.

i would have never thought twice about the sound untill i pulled in the clutch and i noticed the motor sounded a little different, when i release the clutch lever the sound is there again.

best i can describe it would be a bit of a chattering or a chugging sound i guess more of a chug.

is this normal or should i have it looked at.

[Easy Rider]

best i can describe it would be a bit of a chattering or a chugging sound i guess more of a chug.

is this normal or should i have it looked at.

Yes, probably........to both questions, because nobody can tell for sure without actually HEARING it. I wouldn't make a special trip to the dealer though.

[JWR]

This is what I would do.

Ride the bike about 100 miles, then do another look and see safety check.

I will bet it will sound better or not.

This bike just needs to be limbered up.

Not many miles for the year model.

Jerry

[Easy Rider]

I will bet it will sound better or not.


I will bet that nobody can argue with logic like that !!! :itsokay: :crackup

[JWR]

I had a nice long response typed out and lost it........Duh....

Short and sweet.


Jerry

[dannylightning]

I had a nice long response typed out and lost it........Duh....

Short and sweet.


Jerry

man i hate when that happens,

any ways. im not asking for a diagnosis of the problem if there even is one, just wondering if all of these bikes sound a little different with when the clutch is engaged compared to when it is disengaged, so i know if this may possible be a problem

the bike runs really good

[music man]

Mine does that same thing, has ever since i have had it (almost 8,000 miles ago), when I first got it i thought the same thing you did, but I think that these bikes (most of them anyways) just do that.

[patrick_777]

I've never really paid attention, but I'm going to be riding a little tomorrow, so I'll listen more carefully.

[dannylightning]

I've never really paid attention, but I'm going to be riding a little tomorrow, so I'll listen more carefully.

Thanks, the only time i can really notice it is when I'm not moving and its in neutral. when driving i cant really tell if it does this or not, once i get moving all the road noise, wind noise, the muffler noise and rpm's up higher it is impossible to tell

the sound seems like it is coming from around the area where the clutch would be, i wasn't sure if my ears were playing tricks one me or not so i got down closer to he motor and pulled the clutch lever a few times.. i can hear it a little when setting on the bike but its much more noticeable when i get my ear down closer the the engine.

ill record the sound with my camera tomorrow when i get a chance and post something up on you tube and stick it on here. the mike on my camera is super sensitive condenser mike so it will pick up every little sound so it may make it sound a lot louder than it is, it seems to compress the sound a bit too witch amplifies things a bit.

if you play record music a compressor is a quite handy device to have around. but for bike engine noise not so sure..

[Water Warrior 2]

A chattering is normal with many bikes, depending on design. All of my bikes were Japanese and all had some sort of chatter. The chatter is more noticable after the engine and oil are warmed up. If the bike has too much of a chudder rather than a chatter I would suggest turning up the idle just a bit.

[patrick_777]

If the bike has too much of a chudder rather than a chatter I would suggest turning up the idle just a bit.

Listen carefully for the chittering though...that can mean a blown seal. Cheddaring has more to do with age and ripeness and is a sharper sound - sometimes "Extra Sharp"...

:banana:

[Easy Rider]

Mine does that same thing, has ever since i have had it (almost 8,000 miles ago), when I first got it i thought the same thing you did, but I think that these bikes (most of them anyways) just do that.

:plus1:

There are different stresses on the throw-out and thrust bearings when there is no load (ie-no stress) and they make a different sound.

[dannylightning]

its kind of a deeper mid range chugging sound i would say its probably in the 125HZ to 250Hz range of sound

Patrick, i was justt thinking i need to squash the bug on my computer screen, im gonna go and try to record a video now if its not raining

it is uploading on youtube now

[dannylightning]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_E2Wl0lVBI youtube video

[Easy Rider]

youtube video

My old ears couldn't hear any difference.
I DO think that it sounds like your idle speed is too low.......anybody else ??
Of course, maybe that is cold with no choke, in which case it might be about right.

[dannylightning]

youtube video

My old ears couldn't hear any difference.
I DO think that it sounds like your idle speed is too low.......anybody else ??
Of course, maybe that is cold with no choke, in which case it might be about right.

it was just getting warmed up, i rarely every halve to use my choke to start the bike so that was no choke
it was only running for a minute or two and its kind of chilly out this morning. the idol runs just a little faster than when it is fully warmed up but not much. im not exactly sure how fast the idol speed should be set and with no tack its hard to tell how many rpm's its running at


i can hear the difference when i watch the video. its not really distinct difference but it is there if you really listen, than again i have my computer hooked up to a hi end stereo

from some of these responses i got im thinking it's probably nothing to worry about

[Water Warrior 2]

youtube video

My old ears couldn't hear any difference.
I DO think that it sounds like your idle speed is too low.......anybody else ??
Of course, maybe that is cold with no choke, in which case it might be about right.

+1 :2tup:

[Easy Rider]

from some of these responses i got im thinking it's probably nothing to worry about

Good conclusion.

As for idle speed......tach, what's a tach, we don't need no stinkin' fancy equipement; gauge by EAR. :biggrin:

No, seriously, listen to the video and notice how you can distinctly HEAR each time it fires.. clink, clink, clink. If it speeds up a little when warm, I assume that noise is much less pronounced, right?

If that is true, and it sounds a lot smoother when warm, you might consider using just a little bit of choke when cold; just enough to maintain a smooth idle. That lever does two things: Fast idle and enricher (choke). Typically, fast idle comes in first and then if you move it further, choke.

I'd be more worried about low idle speed than the slight sound difference that started this thread. OTOH, I seemed to be obsessed with idle speed these days and MAYBE the recording makes it sound worse than it really IS. :??:

[dannylightning]

i take it low idol speed is bad for the bike, i was thinking that you could probably judge it by how man times it fires but wasent exactly sure. so i take it i should up the idol a bit, ill halve to go through he manual again and look up the correct idol speed.

yes the faster the idols the less noticeable the sound.

[patrick_777]

I couldn't hear it in the video, but it sounds like it's running fine. +1 on the slightly low idle. This engine has only one cylinder, so when you set the idle on it, set it until you JUST think it's a bit too high, and that's about right. You'll never get a good lope out of it like you do a v-twin or an i4.

[Easy Rider]

i take it low idol speed is bad for the bike,
so i take it i should up the idol a bit,
ill halve to go through he manual again and look up the correct idol speed.



A low idle speed CAN be bad for an engine and the fewer the number of pistons, the more likely that it could be a problem. It strains the piston, rod and crank when it just barely has enough momentum to complete the compression stroke. It is kind of like pre-ignition knock or lugging the engine by being in too low a gear.

It also makes riding and shifting rougher if set too low.

So, when you find out what the recommended idle speed IS, how are you going to set it ??
The throttle stop, idle speed adjustment should be done when the bike is thoroughly warm (HOT).

And.....to repeat the important part from my last post......I am NOT necessarily saying you should increase the idle speed. If the idle speed goes up when warmed up and that "ticking over" is much less pronounced, then you probably should NOT change the basic throttle stop position.

What you should do it use a tiny little bit of choke/fast idle lever to achieve about that same idle speed until it warms up and doesn't need it anymore. My bike is rideable after a warm up of about a minute......if and ONLY IF I leave the choke on a bit. Depending on outside temp. that lasts from a mile or so in the summer time to maybe 5 miles or more if it is really cold.

The choke is your friend. Do not be afraid to use it !!!

[Easy Rider]

You'll never get a good lope out of it like you do a v-twin or an i4.

If you have an I4 that lopes at idle, it is set WAY too low.......or isn't hitting on all 4 !! :roll: :biggrin:

Or maybe it is a drag bike running on ether. :crackup

[patrick_777]

The choke is your friend.

Don't you mean "Enrichment Lever"? :poke2:

If you have an I4 that lopes at idle, it is set WAY too low.......or isn't hitting on all 4 !!

True. I4's don't lope. My bad.

[Easy Rider]

[quote="Easy Rider":17eoz92y]The choke is your friend.

Don't you mean "Enrichment Lever"? :poke2:.[/quote:17eoz92y]

I've got a lever you can "enrich"........ :neener:

[dannylightning]

I4's ????? well i set my idle higher, just to the point where it sounds a little too high.. i guess i did have it set kind of low after watching a few videos on youtube of gz's setting there running way faster than mine was..

i just got me motorcycle license that was a joke, so the bike just came back from a 50 mile trip, ran great. my uncle drove it down to the testing center and i rode it home.

i say it is a joke cus they had me do one lap around the parking lot witch i had to go around the building for.. i would say the total amount of time the lady saw me on the bike was about 10 seconds, probably not even that so if thats all they do they should just hand out the license to every one or not require one.

no more sticking to the back country roads and trying not to go more than a few miles from my house... too bad it's about 40 degrees out or i would go riding some more. im still frozen from the ride home.

[music man]

An I4 is a inline 4 cylinder engine. instead of being in a V like a V-twin.

[dannylightning]

thanks, never been good with abbreviations..

[primal]

I4 is the abbreviation for inline-4. That's the type of engine used in most sport bikes.

BTW, I don't know if anyone mentioned this to you before, but you should really look into taking the MSF course.

[music man]

I4 is the abbreviation for inline-4. That's the type of engine used in most sport bikes.

look up about three posts :haha2:

[dannylightning]

BTW, I don't know if anyone mentioned this to you before, but you should really look into taking the MSF course.

the class is a bit pricey, 250.00 at one place and 300 some bucks at the other plus you got to buy all this saftey gear. i think both of those places charged a 50 dolor charge for insurance perpouses too. i guess its for if you get hurt or trash their bike.

im not new to riding, but it has been a while. how ever this is the first bike i have owned, my buddy that lived way way out in the sticks in ohio had bikes and we used to go out riding them all the time.

alot of the time i chose his little yz80 over the motorcycles. that thing was fast he had it modified, not sure if those are little rockets stock or not. we used to take that out on trails and jump it too. i really miss riding that little bike ahhhhh good memories

[patrick_777]

:popcorn:

[JWR]

plus you got to buy all this saftey gear.





I wonder why they call it that???

[dannylightning]

plus you got to buy all this saftey gear.





I wonder why they call it that???
they gave me a sheet of about 10 things you had to have. and they were specific on the type and what it was made out of and none of it was cheep, every thing on the list if bought new would probably cost between 400 and 600 probably more, plus the money for the class.

all that money just to take a written test and ride around in a parking lot for a few hours, my uncle took a course a while back when it was cheep and they supplied all your safety gear, he said they thought him how to turn, use the breaks and sift the bike, he cant remember a damn thing they showed him in the class room or most of what they did in the parking lot.. in my opinion experience is what makes you good not some one trying to tell you or show you how to do something only a few times. your probably gonna forget most of it and pick up your bad habits any ways. im sure there is some info that may come in handy but i cant see spending a lot of money on something like that.

i can show any one how to get a knife away from a attacker and go over it with them a few times but it don't mean if the situation arose a few months down the road they would be ready for it or even remember what to do.

im sure the class is good but i dont thing it would be worth what its gonna cost

[music man]

:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

[Easy Rider]

im sure the class is good but i dont thing it would be worth what its gonna cost

Nobody can tell you what to do; you take responsiblilty for your own well being.

Although we have ONE on here that doesn't agree......the VAST majority of people who have taken the course think it is WELL worth the time and money. That's why almost every course in the country has a waiting list every summer..........in addition to the license testing break you get in some states.

While I have a good understanding that Govt. run programs like this can end up being anal in their specific requirements, I quite assure you that the MSF itself does NOT have gear requirements that are brand specific. I suggest that maybe the "requirements" are just suggestions....as far as specific brands go. If not, maybe the folks running the course in your area need a good kick in the ass.

AND just to keep the record straight, I have never taken the course. When I started riding there was no M endorsement (yes, OLD fart) and when there was, the test consisted of making one circle around the parking lot without falling down.

[dannylightning]

well it don't matter what brand you got, it matters what kind of material its made out of and it needs to be made to for motorcycles.

you had to have
(a helmet of course but i already had that)

full fingered leather motorcycle gloves
some kind of certified shatterproof glasses
a jacket with the padding and all that in it

that's when i thought theres a few hundred bucks right there bucks in right there. thats just what i remember on the list. i glanced at it when i got home and put it in the trash.

they actually tried to tell me that if i went down to take the test at the local testing center i would still halve to have every thing on their list or you will fail the test . i went down there with my helmet and my doc martins

and yes one lap around the parking going around the building while the tester stayed at the front of the building. they would have had no idea if i were pushing the bike and reving the engine to make it sound like i was riding when i went around the corner. i don't see why there was a test. probably required by the goverment..

one little lap around the building only in their site for 5 or 10 seconds i was expecting to go through cones do figure 8's and jump through burning rings of fire.

[music man]

The thing is, it isn't like you are not going to use all those things anyways (except for maybe the Safety goggles) after you got done taking the MSF course (unless you weren't planning on riding motorcycles after you took the course). Every motorcycle rider needs a good pair of Gloves, a good jacket, and a helmet.

[dannylightning]

time to get my post back on track here, just to set things straight, im not trying to argue with any one or say the course is crap. bottom line, i got my gz a few weeks ago, my job is now part time, they just laid off about 1000 people last week. it would cost quite a bit of money to buy all that and take the class and i don't have the money for much of any thing that i don't absolutely need to spend it on at the moment. im sure it would be a good program to go through and probably fun too.

Now back to the subject

i adjusted the idle speed yesterday, I'm gonna record a video later on today after i get back from riding so the engine should be good and warm. hopefully its set about right now.

[dannylightning]

is this too fast or just about right,

[youtube:21r7qggy]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mfnse9J2VCY[/youtube:21r7qggy]

[David Bo]

That sounds WAY fast to me...

[Easy Rider]

is this too fast or just about right,


Sounds good to me; definitely NOT too fast. Was this with engine hot or cold ??

I'm still curious about the recordings though; they all seem to make the "thump" a lot more pronounced than when your are standing right there. Guess that will remain a mystery!

David, why do you think it is too fast?
This isn't a loping Harley we are dealing with here......... :biggrin:

[David Bo]

If that recording was while his bike was idling, that sounded very fast to me. I have my idle screw set much lower... I turned mine down until the engine was just about ready to stall and then turned it back up about one full turn. That is how my bike idles...

Easy, I thought you were into saving gas !!!

[Easy Rider]

Easy, I thought you were into saving gas !!!

I'm into saving engines. Did you miss the part where a really low idle speed can cause engine damage ??

I don't think his is really going as fast as you think it is.

[alantf]

David, in case you haven't read the handbook, suzuki say 1200 to 1400 rev/min for tickover. I'm not saying that you MUST adhere to this, but just that you might like to use that as a reference point. A car is set at, what, 800 (?) rev/min, so the gz should sound as though it's ticking over at 1½ times the car.

[dannylightning]

im all about saving gas but when your driving the engine is revved up way more than that, you should spend way more time moving that stopped. some one said earlier the bike will run better with the idol set higher, well it does i noticed much better pickup right after i shift gears. i tried to turn the idle about a turn lower and the bike did not have as much pickup, every time i stopped i turned it just a slight bit higher as soon as i felt that extra pickup again i i left it right there. i think i got it set just right.

so my advice is to warm the bike up all the way than play around with it until you get a noticeable difference in pickup as soon as you do stop right there and than you probably have it set just right..

i would rather burn a little more gas while stopped than damage the engine. and i would rather have the bike take off a little faster from a stop and between gear changes. it is only one cylinder it makes perfect sense to have the idle set a little higher.

damn i need to learn how to spell idle i keep reading over my post and catching my self spelling it idol

[David Bo]

I think you've been watching too much American Idol :biggrin: ... This is why I am glad I joined this forum. I honestly did not realize that the idle needed to be set higher on our thumpers (should re-read my manual). I guess I will have to turn my screw another half turn or so... I do run Castrol FULL SYNTHETIC 10W-40 oil though. I would guess that that would be more benefical to the engine at low idling speeds???

Easy - your thoughts?

[dannylightning]

is this too fast or just about right,


Sounds good to me; definitely NOT too fast. Was this with engine hot or cold ??

I'm still curious about the recordings though; they all seem to make the "thump" a lot more pronounced

it was hot, took it around the block witch is about 10 miles

i believe most cameras have a condenser mike in them, that is why it is possible for them to pick up sound from across the room quite well . condenser mikes are extremely, extremely sensitive and pick up every thing, there is probably also a little compressor in there witch will amplify and bring out the suttle sounds out more so you can hear every thing that way you don't get lousy dry audio reproduction. if you don't have some kind of effect for instance compression, slap back delay or a little reverb audio will sound dry and lousy.

that is my educated guess on why they would sound different when recorded

[dannylightning]

I think you've been watching too much American Idol :biggrin: ... This is why I am glad I joined this forum. I honestly did not realize that the idle needed to be set higher on our thumpers (should re-read my manual). I guess I will have to turn my screw another half turn or so... I do run Castrol FULL SYNTHETIC 10W-40 oil though. I would guess that that would be more benefical to the engine at low idling speeds???

Easy - your thoughts?


well im sure the full synthetic would help, but better safe than sorry. that's what i always say. i just put some mobile1 racing 4T 10W-40 in mine, full synthetic, they sell it at walmart. its shifts much smoother now and i only get a clunk going in to first gear some of the time. most of the time i get a nice little click instead of a clunk. before i changed the oil it would always clunk loud, after driving 20 or 30 miles it started to clunk less and less after about 100 some miles i only get a occasional clunk.

well this post turned in to something that will probably to help some folks not ruin their motors, my first thought was the have the idle set kind of low

[Easy Rider]

I do run Castrol FULL SYNTHETIC 10W-40 oil though. I would guess that that would be more benefical to the engine at low idling speeds???

Easy - your thoughts?

Synthetic is a TINY bit better at a lot of things....so tiny that for most things it doesn't matter.
I suspect that includes things like abuse from running an engine "out of spec.", either too fast or too slow.

What it is REALLY good at is not breaking down due to heat. I consider that important in an air cooled engine .....that tends to run a bit hotter that a water cooled one and can over-heat without you even knowing it.

I use synthetic in everything I own mostly because I tend to keep things with an engine for a VERY long time........and those tiny little advantages tend to add up over, oh say 150,000 miles (for a car, not a bike).

[Easy Rider]

it was hot, took it around the block witch is about 10 miles


City folks won't understand that. :roll: :biggrin:

[David Bo]

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing... That is ONE HELL OF A BLOCK!!! In Massachusetts, if you go on a 10 mile ride, you've gone through THREE SEPERATE TOWNS. O_o

[dannylightning]

it was hot, took it around the block witch is about 10 miles


City folks won't understand that. :roll: :biggrin:

around the block in the country consist of usually 1-10 miles of twisty country roads than you come to a stop sign, there may or may not be a street sign at the intersection. after you turn there you got a few more miles of winding country roads tilll you get to the next stop sign and so on.

[Easy Rider]

it was hot, took it around the block witch is about 10 miles


City folks won't understand that. :roll: :biggrin:

around the block in the country consist of usually 1-10 miles of twisty country roads

Well I guess NOW they do.............. :facepalm: