Ignition circuit problem

[adrianinflorida]

OK, Replaced the handle bars last night, got it all put back together got the wires plugged back in (Front Brake light switch and clutch position switch) Turned the key, pulled in the clutch and pressed the start button....Nothing, nada, zip zilch.

Cursed, had a cigarette, drank some coffee, went back to the bike and rechecked the wire connections, opened both swictch assemblies (Left and right) checked for broken wires, etc. adjusted the clutch handle position to get it to pull back a bit more to allow the clutch switch to open fully...the bike started.

Readjusted and reassembled everything (Reqadjusted the clutch handle assembly to where it works best with the new bars) while it was running, put it in first to test drive, stalled it, no starter button function again. Supidly, filed back the tip of the plunger on the clutch switch, to allow it to fully open with the clutch handle positiioned where I have it positioned. Still nothing.

The bike will push start, the starter works when when I apply voltage across the starter relay terminals. The kickstand switch functions properly the engine cut off switch functions properly.

Is the "Clutch Position Switch" an on/off type switch, or is there a "sweet spot" in the travel of the plunger where it allows the starter button to be energized? If I temporarily jumper the Clutch Position Switch connector, that should fool it into thinking the clutch swith is 'closed' or allowing the circuit to energize, correct?

The other possibility I can think of is a bad starter switch or connection to the starter switch.

I'm betting on the Clutch Switch, though, as over the past few weeks I've noticed that when I'd go to start the bike, I'd pull in the clutch, push the button and occasionally it would either do nothing or take a second before the starter spun up. Sometimes letting go of the clutch and reapplying it would allow it to start right up.

So I guess my main question is would jumpering the clutch switch connector/circuit fool the circuit into thinking the clutch is properly depressed for testing purposes? If it's on on/off type switch I would think so, and the electrical schematic shows no diodes, etc for that part of the starter circuit, unlike the sidestand switch.

[Easy Rider]

Sometimes letting go of the clutch and reapplying it would allow it to start right up.

If it's on on/off type switch I would think so, and the electrical schematic shows no diodes, etc for that part of the starter circuit, unlike the sidestand switch.

I think you've pretty well got it figured out.
Please do let us know how it turns out.

[adrianinflorida]

Will do, It seems as though it's either the clutch switch or start button, my bet is the clutch switch. I'll make a jumper up at lunch time and give it a try.Worst case it's the starter switch, and that shouldn't be a horrible repair, either. Just wanted to bounce my ideas off of you guys to validate what I was thinking.

[mrlmd1]

You have to be real careful about jumping the clutch switch so you don't try to start the bike in gear and have it lurch forward when you hit the starter. Keep the clutch pulled in (disengaged) when you try and start it like you would if you didn't bypass the switch.

[adrianinflorida]

You have to be real careful about jumping the clutch switch so you don't try to start the bike in gear and have it lurch forward when you hit the starter. Keep the clutch pulled in (disengaged) when you try and start it like you would if you didn't bypass the switch.
Yep, I'm only going to do it to test if it's the clutch switch, and then head over to the Suzuki dealer to get one, or at least order it. Not gonna ride it with the jumper in place.

As an aside, would the starter work with the sidestand down and the bike in gear? Or would the sidestand switch prevent starting or only prevent ignition, allowing the starter to turn and lurch the bike. Dont want to find out for real, just curious.

Time to look at the electrical diagrams, again. :)

[Easy Rider]

As an aside, would the starter work with the sidestand down and the bike in gear?

NO! Clutch or no, it won't run the starter.
I hate these "simple" logic circuits !! :cry:

[adrianinflorida]

As an aside, would the starter work with the sidestand down and the bike in gear?

NO! Clutch or no, it won't run the starter.
I hate these "simple" logic circuits !! :cry:
Either they're not that simple, or we're just getting older and less able to deal with 'em.

:)

[Easy Rider]

Either they're not that simple, or we're just getting older and less able to deal with 'em.


Oh sure. You HAD to point that out, didn't you! :skull: :biggrin:

[adrianinflorida]

Either they're not that simple, or we're just getting older and less able to deal with 'em.


Oh sure. You HAD to point that out, didn't you! :skull: :biggrin:
I feel it more and more every morning, too many years of hockey as a kid and changing tires in pit stops in the last 15 or so years have destroyed my old knees. I sound like a bowl of rice krispies when I stand up out of bed.

[mrlmd1]

The bike will run in neutral with the sidestand down, and it will start that way with the clutch pulled in. If it's in gear and the stand is down it won't start or it'll shut off when you try and pull away or if it's running in gear and you put the stand down.

[Water Warrior 2]

Either they're not that simple, or we're just getting older and less able to deal with 'em.


Oh sure. You HAD to point that out, didn't you! :skull: :biggrin:

Easy, I'll hold him and you hit him. :lol:

[adrianinflorida]

Disturbingly, the jumper in the clutch switch didn't work. I got home checked the slack in the wires coming from each handlebar control, and miraculously it started right up. I'll dig into both bundles of wires and check for bad conections or breaks this weekend, and double check the starter button, as well.

[adrianinflorida]

Just a follow up,
When I had the controls off to change the handlebars, and reinstalled them, they are a bit higher and further back than on the stock bars, thereby casuing a bit of stretch to the harness when the handlebars are turned to the left when parked. When this occurs, it seems that it's pulling oo the starter switch wire, causing it to not work, stratighten out the handlebars, the tension comes off the wire, it starts. Go figure.

So I'll be re wiring the parts of the harness (Clutch switch, start switch, etc) that come from the handlebar controls to give a bit more slack in the wires, also up grading to a stainless front brakeline about 2-3 inches longer, to give a bit more slack there, as well.

Thanks for the ideas earlier.