Plexistar 2 Windshield - Moedad, Alan?

I recently ordered a Plexistar 2 Windshield (based mostly on info I've read on this forum) and was wondering if Moedad was still around to offer me advice (I think Alan also had the Plexistar before he moved onto the Strat). I'm 5' 10", so do you think when I install I should try to raise it as much as possible from where it "naturally" sits above the headlight? As low as possible?

I've had my bike since late summer and have now added saddle bags/brackets and the windshield; I also think I'm a good candidate for the 16T sprocket, but after that I need to stop. My wife is starting to wonder about this motorcycle thing. In all seriousness, this forum has been invaluable - thanks to all who weigh in with advice/comments. Even when I don't participate in a thread, I learn a lot.

Keith

[JWR]

I do not have the Plexistar, but from experience I will share this:
Tall enough to completely get behind the shield to block all wind.
Short enough to get you head in the slipstream of the air.

For me , if the shield is between chin to eye level , does not work so well.

You will have to try different setting to see what works for you.
I know this didn't answer your question on placement, but this is what you will find out on your on.

[Moedad]

I'm alllllmost 5-10 and mine is mounted so I look over the top of it.

[Easy Rider]

I'm 5' 10", so do you think when I install I should try to raise it as much as possible from where it "naturally" sits above the headlight? As low as possible?


It might depend more on what is possible than what is desirable; that is, you may not have as much mounting flexibility as you want. I had to buy longer mounting rods for mine to get it just right (not the same model).

In general, higher is better because then you can vary the position of the top by changing the rake angle instead of moving the shield up and down. You need a slight rake angle to prevent the shield from acting like a sail; more angle = less resistance. I would recommend starting out with the top about at eye level; then you can adjust from there. It might take MANY days and lots of test rides to get it right. My last one took about 3 weeks !! O_o

The ultimate position is a matter of personal taste and depends mostly on what your main objective IS. If you want the best wind protection possible, then the shield needs to be high with only a minimum rake. That will probably let more wind in UNDER the shield but in hot weather that can be a good thing. Looking through the shield isn't a problem.......if you keep it clean and ride mostly in the daylight with no rain. You should NEVER mount one so high that you can't "stretch" and see over it because a few bugs or a little rain reflects oncoming headlights and makes it almost impossible to see through it at night or when very cloudy.

Most who have tried the 16T love it; a few didn't and went back.

[alanmcorcoran]

km,

I now have the benefit of two windshields... and yet, I still don't think I'm in a position to offer you any constructive advice. Here's some musings nonetheless:

1) I think the "rake" is almost as important as the height. I found it difficult to get the rake at the angle I wanted with the Plexistar. I actually messed around with it some more a couple of nights ago, but I'm still not 100% happy with it.
2) Despite what a previous poster said about getting it up as high as possible, my personal experience agrees with Moedad and Easy - you want to be able to look over the top at the horizon. It won't block all of the wind, but it will divert most of it.
3) You'll find that the shape of the plexistar gives you some conflict with the top of the fork in the handlebar clamp area. Spend some time studying the numerous ways the clamps and the attachment thingies can be put together to hold the "L" connectors. You'll want it to complement the lines of the bike, but not be too close to the fork - otherwise, you'll get rattling or vibration as it whacks against the bike in buffeting conditions.
4) Whe you first start with a windshield, your expectations may be too high. There will be residual currents of air floating around the sides and back of your helmet. Some are fixable, some are not. The ones that aren't you get used to after a while.
5) Here is my recommended sequence for the installing the Plexi: Once you have the hardware sorted out, work on getting the handlebar mounts on, and as high on the rise (before the bend) and symmetrical as you can. (The symmetry is in two dimensions - relative to the bars and rotation of the connectors.) You'll probably find some of the controls on the right side limit how high up you can go, and you also may notice the clamps don't fit perfectly, but are "close enough" given the bend in the bars. Once those are on as symmetrically as possible, loosely attach the windshield to the handlebar connectors, get the bottom tucked in towards the fork clamp, and start to visualize the height and how far forward of the fork you want to secure it. The blinkers and the fork clamp may be in your way. Before you secure anything too tight, always check the relative spacing right to left, space between the clutch and brake levers, relative height of the hand "bubbles" to the hand controls, even spacing on the lower cutout that sits in front of the top of the fork.

To be candid, I think it's best to get it on, ride it for a while, and then take a second or third whack at it. It's very adjustable, and that is both the benefit and the downside.

If you get the thing on perfectly, take a picture. Moe is selling his GZ but I still have mine.

[Moedad]

Here are a couple of pics of mine to give you an idea.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/danmartin56/Miscellaneous/GZ250Luggage004.jpg

Zoomed in. I think Alan has his mounted high enough so the lowers aren't behind the blinkers. I'm actually pretty satisfied with mine where it is. I get some wind hitting the top of my helmet at freeway speeds, but it's not really bothersome.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/danmartin56/Miscellaneous/GZwindshield.jpg

[BusyWeb]

[quote="Moedad"]Here are a couple of pics of mine to give you an idea.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/danmartin56/Miscellaneous/GZ250Luggage004.jpg

Hi, Moedad.
I like your saddle bag and rear bag setup..
Um, it might be very helpful for the long run riding..
For the coming summer... I may need it.. :roll:
I found that Back-Pack and Messenger style bag is not good for the bikers.
Today, I put my stuffs to the rear bag from back-pack as raining.
I felt really comfort compare to the wearing back-pack.
And less exhaustion.

[Water Warrior 2]

Nice bag set-up. Are those Cortech and are they expandable ?? Might be a solution for the new M 50 without breaking the bank.

[Moedad]

Nice bag set-up. Are those Cortech and are they expandable ?? Might be a solution for the new M 50 without breaking the bank.

The saddlebags can be stuffed and get fatter than they look in these pictures, but they are not officially expandable. The tail tailbag does expand to the sides out over the saddlebags a couple of inches on each side.

[Moedad]

Hi, Moedad.
I like your saddle bag and rear bag setup..
Um, it might be very helpful for the long run riding..
For the coming summer... I may need it.. :roll:
I found that Back-Pack and Messenger style bag is not good for the bikers.
Today, I put my stuffs to the rear bag from back-pack as raining.
I felt really comfort compare to the wearing back-pack.
And less exhaustion.

Thanks, Busy. I look forward to using them all on a multiday ride. So far I've just loaded them up for pretend.

Moedad, Alan and Others,

Thanks for the advice - your second picture is especially helpful, Moedad. I even have the same year/color as your (former?) bike - did you sell it yet, BTW? I know you live in California, but do you find the portion of the shield that covers the grips help cut down on your hands getting cold. My hands getting cold are the worst part of riding in cooler/cold weather, I find.

Keith

[dan_]

My hands getting cold are the worst part of riding in cooler/cold weather, I find.

Do you wear gloves? Leather gloves with a nice lining will totally do the trick. Try thinsulate gloves too. I have deer skin thinsulate gloves and they keep my hands toasty toasty even when is like 30 outside.

[music man]

Do you wear gloves? Leather gloves with a nice lining will totally do the trick. Try thinsulate gloves too. I have deer skin thinsulate gloves and they keep my hands toasty toasty even when is like 30 outside.


I also wear those same gloves but they only keep my hands warm for about 25-30 minutes of highway speeds and then its frozen finger time. Plus did you happen to notice that he is from Michigan, 30 degrees in Michigan is probably what they hope for on a nice Autumn day, so for the most part I doubt that our Thinsulate Deerskin gloves are going to cut it.

[dan_]

They're soft though.

[Water Warrior 2]

Cold hands can be a deal breaker with riding pleasure. The shield looks quite protective to me. Thinsulate Deer skin sounds like a good bet too. Get them in a gauntlet style to protect your wrists and block drafts. Symtec heated grips will make a difference too and the GZ will easily provide enough power for them. Lynda fell in love with her warm hands after a couple cool rides with heated grips. Cheap and easy to install too.

[alanmcorcoran]

Moedad, Alan and Others,

Thanks for the advice - your second picture is especially helpful, Moedad. I even have the same year/color as your (former?) bike - did you sell it yet, BTW? I know you live in California, but do you find the portion of the shield that covers the grips help cut down on your hands getting cold. My hands getting cold are the worst part of riding in cooler/cold weather, I find.

Keith

It actually does occasionally get cold out here (well, forty-ish) and, yes, the windshield makes a huge difference on your hands. You'll still want the gloves on though.

[Easy Rider]

I also wear those same gloves but they only keep my hands warm for about 25-30 minutes of highway speeds and then its frozen finger time.

If that is without any shield at all, then yes, properly positioned hand guards should double your freeze time. By that time, you may notice something ELSE getting cold !!

[music man]

I don't have a Windshield at all. I have solved pretty much every part of my body getting cold EXCEPT for my hands, I just never have bitten the bullet to spend some serious cash on glove experiments. But for the most part when it is winter time I only ride 30 minutes to an hour at a time anyways, so it is really not too much of an issue.


Riding too long in the winter time regardless of your clothing choice could end up in you looking like this.....
http://www.postimage.org/aVs5GB9.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aVs5GB9)

[Water Warrior 2]

MM, check with New Enough for some closeout sales. You may find a good winter glove for less than you think. Also check webBikeWorld, they did a winter glove evaluation of 9 different glove and recommended a couple that would work very well without a bank loan.

MM wrote . . . "Plus did you happen to notice that he is from Michigan, 30 degrees in Michigan is probably what they hope for on a nice Autumn day . . ."

It was 3 degrees below zero Farenheit this AM as I started up the car, recalling fondly those October mornings when I rode the bike to work and it was 37 degrees (and my hands still got cold, gloves and all!). I am really jealous of you warm weather, year round riders, but we live vicariously through your reports, so keep 'em coming!

Keith

[music man]

I do ride year round, but it is far from warm weather year round here. Unless it is unseasonably warm here, I am usually the only dumb-ass on two wheels out riding around in the winter time.

[dan_]

I do ride year round, but it is far from warm weather year round here. Unless it is unseasonably warm here, I am usually the only dumb-ass on two wheels out riding around in the winter time.

I feel the same way man there's never anyone out and if I stop to get gas the clerk always makes some crack about keeping warm.

[alanmcorcoran]

but we live vicariously through your reports, so keep 'em coming!

Well Keith, it got down to about 41 or so where I live (I think I could see my breath!) tonight. I went out to a coffehouse/cafe thingie on the Strat. The windshield on my big bike is not as big as the one on the GZ, and I have worn some holes in my thicker gloves, so, it was a bit chilly. Wore my headgator! At the lights, I put my hands down below the gas tank - like a heater down there. It doesn't get much colder than this, and I was going 75 (for about 25 minutes) without too much discomfort.

Maybe my three days of -3 in Chicago two weeks ago made me immune.

[patrick_777]

At the lights, I put my hands down below the gas tank - like a heater down there.

Believe it or not, this is one of the reasons I would have to consider a large-bore engine. I've tried this tactic on the Ninja and it's disappointingly cold down there (water-cooled no less). The GZ is better, but due to the size, it doesn't radiate that much.

[Water Warrior 2]

At the lights, I put my hands down below the gas tank - like a heater down there.

Believe it or not, this is one of the reasons I would have to consider a large-bore engine. I've tried this tactic on the Ninja and it's disappointingly cold down there (water-cooled no less). The GZ is better, but due to the size, it doesn't radiate that much.

Just try to imagine all that radiating heat in the summer.

[purslant]

I'm looking at ordering a Plexistar II windshild for my GZ, any suggestion on who would be the best to order from, price, reliablity, etc.

Thanks Anthony :2tup:

[alanmcorcoran]

Got mine from Motorcycle Accessories Int'l. Not sure what the alternatives are. I ordered different one from them originally, sent it back and lost the shipping. They were also going to charge a re-stocking fee until I bought another windshield. The one they sent me on the first go round came detached from it's shrink wrap and was missing a sheet metal plate when it arrived - so I really shouldn't have been charged for shipping, not should I have had to pay for sending it back, nor should I have had to pay a restocking fee.

They did end up crediting me the base amount of windshield one vs windshield two, but I was out 40 bucks or so on shipping charges. I'd give them a C-. The only other vendor I've bought stuff from was BikeBandit. Got what I ordered first time, but it was just o-rings and oil filters.

Also, be advised, that some vendors (Motorcycle Accessories included) will NOT ACCEPT RETURNS of windshields if you have attempted to install them.

[purslant]

Thanks for the info

[Moedad]

I got mine from National Cycle. No issues.

[Easy Rider]

I'm looking at ordering a Plexistar II windshild for my GZ, any suggestion on who would be the best to order from, price, reliablity, etc.


Canned answer #6:

I believe in supporting your local (Suzuki) dealer so that they will (hopefully) still be there down the road when you really need them so..........

At least visit the dealer and get their price. It may not be that much different than "mail order" when you add in S&H.
And returns or fixes are often much easier that way.

[purslant]

Thanks for the info, and I will check out my local dealer first.

[alanmcorcoran]

I re-futzed with my Plexistar Two and I think I have finally arrived at a mounting that is:

1) The proper height.
2) A decent rake.
3) Matches the bike: handlebar, cables, fork wise.

I went with a different mounting than Moedad - I flipped the holders for the bottom around so they push the bottom of the shield up and out further than the standard(??) mounting. (Note: The Plexistar instructions encourage you to be creative with the mounts, so I don't think my approach is anything less safe or sturdy than Moe's.) Couple of other notes:

1) Make sure you have at least 1/4" clearance for the hardware from the fork and the tubes. 3/8" would be better.
2) Make sure you have at least 3/8" clearance for the shield from the bike. 1/2 - 3/4" would be better.
3) If I wasn't so lazy, I would remove and flip the pipe clamps around so the tightening screw is accessible from the front of the bike instead of the inside.
4) You can't see it in the pictures, but the end of the L attachment is flush with the end of the clamp.
5) You need to pull the shield out and up as you are tightening the pipe clamp to get the proper clearance - it will want to hug the fork and tubes too close.

http://www.postimage.org/aV1BZKCJ.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV1BZKCJ)

http://www.postimage.org/Pq1DXAK9.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Pq1DXAK9)