Bike check ups. [Archive]

dan_

01-22-2009, 03:41 PM

I've read on here that the 3000 mile check up is the most important because of valve adjustment or something. (not a mechanic by any means) After I take my bike to the dealer for the 3000 mile check up, if I don't take it in anymore after that and continue to do regular oil changes will I be fine or end up kicking myself in the teeth? What other things should I be doing regularly? I cleaned my air filter today and lubed my chain!! How often should I change my air filter? Sorry about all the newb questions.

alanmcorcoran

01-22-2009, 03:52 PM

I don't know that they did a valve adjustment on mine (for the 3K). It wasn't mentioned on the receipt. I think I will read the manual to see if it is called for and then follow up.

I recommend you read the manual - you can see the recommended service items in there. I think you can do about half of them yourself if you know what you are doing.

Easy Rider

01-22-2009, 05:56 PM

After I take my bike to the dealer for the 3000 mile check up, if I don't take it in anymore after that and continue to do regular oil changes will I be fine or end up kicking myself in the teeth?

Are you feeling lucky.........?? :whistle:

Checking the valves occasionally is highly recommended.

Reading the owner's manual comes highly recommended too !! :tup:

I personally think it does not need to be done every 3K miles like the book recommends and plan to have mine done every 6-10K miles.
If I get to ride as much as I would like, that will be every 2-3 years.

It is in the shop now for the 6K check. Valves were last checked at 600. It needed front brake shoes too. (They just called; done in one day; $310 total.)

In addition to regular oil changes, you need to keep the chain lubed and occasionally take up the slack. Lube cables and pivot points and adjust clutch lever slack and rear brakes.

P.S. If you are thinking about dealer service in the spring, consider doing it NOW. Mine offers free pickup and delivery this time of year when work is slow.

dan_

01-22-2009, 09:17 PM

At the risk of being laughed at... What's a valve and why does it have to be checked? Also how is valve checked?

JWR

01-22-2009, 10:17 PM

Intake= fresh air in to the piston
Exhaust= burned air and fuel going out to the muffler

Settings are for the correct amount of each.

They are checked with a feeler gauge to measure the thickness of the opening of each.

dan_

01-22-2009, 10:23 PM

So, Two valves? Intake valve and exhaust valve? INtake lets air in.. Exhaust valve lets it out? Where are they? How is it checked and adjusted?

dan_

01-22-2009, 10:24 PM

Heh I think you edited while i posted.. that or im blind..

JWR

01-22-2009, 11:47 PM

You are not blind.
I did not read the second part.

Where are they?

Follow the air flow......

Above the piston.

Easy Rider

01-22-2009, 11:54 PM

Settings are for the correct amount of each.

They are checked with a feeler gauge to measure the thickness of the opening of each.

Good bluff......but incorrect. :biggrin:

It is not the actual valve that is checked but the lash (gap) between the valve stem and the valve lifter or rocker arm. With wear over time that gap might change and need to be re-set.
How much the valve OPENS is determined by how the camshaft lobe is cut. That might change a bit with wear but it is not adjustable.

Easy Rider

01-22-2009, 11:58 PM

So, Two valves? Intake valve and exhaust valve? INtake lets air in.. Exhaust valve lets it out? Where are they? How is it checked and adjusted?

Sounds to me like you need to get a service manual......just for education value if nothing else.
That or visit the library for a book on basic gas engine design......or try Google.
It is really hard to explain without the appropriate pictures.

JWR

01-23-2009, 12:12 AM

Well I was trying to keep it as simple.

:neener:

Water Warrior 2

01-23-2009, 02:17 AM

Ron Ayers Motorsport can give you a nice exploded view of the valves(2 exhaust/2 intake)for your further education. Lynda had her valves checked for $100 and it was well worth it to me. I didn't have to do it. My VStrom will be closer to $300 and well worth it if I don't have to do it. Most maintenance I will do but anything "IN" the engine is best left to professionals with experience IMHO. I have a history of turning a time consuming simple task into a very expensive repair bill at a shop.

alantf

01-23-2009, 09:04 AM

Jeez,
I've never seen such high prices as you say they're charging in the American repair shops. You'd be better off crating the bike up, & sending it to a different country!

At least the last person to rob me had the decency to wear a mask.

music man

01-23-2009, 10:47 AM

Water Warrior 2

01-23-2009, 12:15 PM

Yup, we get to pay lots of $$ for the same bikes, their servicing and parts compared to the U.S. In Australia the costs are even greater in most cases so I won't complain too loudly. But I will say this, when riding gear is on sale in the U.S. I pay attention b/c the cost up here is nuts.

Easy Rider

01-23-2009, 12:50 PM

alanmcorcoran

01-23-2009, 01:29 PM

Mine idles at 1K acording to the tach (yeah, I got a tach...) and it's pretty mch all done by 2500. Most of my loping is at 2K.

(We're talking about my "other" bike, an 1850cc, here.)

Nonetheless, I agree with Easy. more revs on the GZ the better. I rarely use 5th gear and I wind it up pretty high on the way up to fourth.

alantf

01-23-2009, 01:57 PM

My apologies to you nice American folk. I'll have to take more notice in future (slap on the wrist)

By the way WW, we've got friends in Namaimo. That's somewhere near you, isn't it? With the distance we don't meet very often - it's mainly by e-mail, but they seem to have enough cash to run a Mustang, & travel all over the world (Like on cruise ships & safaris) so someone must be making the money to pay for your high prices. Like you say, Australia is even pricier. When a friend of ours in Perth started quoting the prices of different things in Australia (Like our marble kitchen worktop which cost us 180 euros, but would have cost him 5000 $A) I began to realise just how lucky we were.

Easy Rider

01-23-2009, 04:38 PM

Nonetheless, I agree with Easy. more revs on the GZ the better. I rarely use 5th gear and I wind it up pretty high on the way up to fourth.

With the stock gearing, not using 5th is kind of a shame.....unless you are staying under 40 mph.

I remember the discussion about actually USING the rev's available on the GZ and it took us a little while to make a believer out of you. After the break-in period is over, are we going to have to brow beat you yet again to convince you that 4500 to 5K on the Liner really is OK ?? :poke2: :biggrin:

What is red-line, BTW ?? I'm guessing maybe 7,500.

patrick_777

01-23-2009, 04:46 PM

Got the bike back and learned two things:
It does NOT like cold weather (40F) and the shop set the idle speed WAY too low. :cry:

Alan might be able to get by with loping his 1800 at 600 rpm but the little one-banger won't perform good off the line until you get it up around 1K (guessing a bit at the actual speed).

When I first picked my GZ up, the guy I bought it from started it up and the idle was set too low also. He was used to big touring cruisers and I figure he assumed I was looking for a big sounding thump from it. It also had the pipes drilled, so it would sound "bigger". Even having never owned a bike before, I immediately knew the idle was low and turned it up as soon as I got it.

If you can kind of hear the thump-thump of each engine stroke then your idle speed needs to be turned up AND you might be amazed at how much better it rides that way.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't the idle setting only affect the bike at idle? How would it make the bike actually ride better at speed, or with the throttle even cracked open? Other than affecting performance in stop & go traffic, I don't really get this.

dan_

01-23-2009, 04:55 PM

With the stock gearing, not using 5th is kind of a shame.....unless you are staying under 40 mph.

So.. if I only use fifth gear when im going over 65mph this is a bad thing?

alanmcorcoran

01-23-2009, 06:32 PM

With the stock gearing, not using 5th is kind of a shame.....unless you are staying under 40 mph.

I remember the discussion about actually USING the rev's available on the GZ and it took us a little while to make a believer out of you. After the break-in period is over, are we going to have to brow beat you yet again to convince you that 4500 to 5K on the Liner really is OK ?? What is red-line, BTW ?? I'm guessing maybe 7,500.

I live in Anaheim Hills, and, well, it's hilly (go figure.) It's nestled on the side of the Santa Ana Canyon and it is also frequently windy (perhaps you've heard of the "Santa Ana" wind conditions, or seen our houses burning up on the telly.) So, between the hills and the wind, I like fourth. 5th is okay if you get a long, flat straightaway.

I think you are right about the redline on the Strat. FWIW, about 2800-2900 rpm's in 5th on the Strat = 70+ mph. 4500-5000 is gonna be over 100 mph I think.

alanmcorcoran

01-23-2009, 06:35 PM

With the stock gearing, not using 5th is kind of a shame.....unless you are staying under 40 mph.

So.. if I only use fifth gear when im going over 65mph this is a bad thing?

That's pretty close to my experience, although, if I'm out on a flat country road, I'll go into 5th sooner. On hills or the freeway, I generally just leave it in fourth so I don't have to keep dropping it down for every rise in the road.

Moedad

01-23-2009, 07:09 PM

I'm on flat ground mostly with mine and I use 5th all the time. If I'm only going 40, I'll leave it in 4th, but most of the time 40 is just a number on the way to 50 and above.

Easy Rider

01-23-2009, 07:15 PM

Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't the idle setting only affect the bike at idle? How would it make the bike actually ride better at speed, or with the throttle even cracked open? Other than affecting performance in stop & go traffic, I don't really get this.

Well, yes, of course you are (mostly) right. Except for smoothing out the engine braking when you chop the throttle, it mostly improves the "launch". :cool:

Easy Rider

01-23-2009, 07:20 PM

So.. if I only use fifth gear when im going over 65mph this is a bad thing?

Yes. :skull:

Running the engine at (or very near) red-line all the time (also known as WFO) strains the engine and contributes to premature failure. OK for climbing an occasional long hill but NOT all the time.

dan_

01-23-2009, 07:49 PM

Well most of the time i stay in 4th gear going between 55 and 60 mph. I rarely ever go above 60 (last thing i need is another ticket) Is this to much strain? I can get up to like 68 in 4th before it sounds like its gonna explode.. Which im guessing is redline..Only did this once...okay maybe twice.. Anybody put a tach on their GZ? What MPH do you guys switch to 5th?

music man

01-23-2009, 08:21 PM

Well I don't have a tach on my bike but I can tell you that on mine at 68 mph in 5TH GEAR sounds like it is pretty much WFO, I couldn't imagine what it would sound like in fourth at that speed.

Easy Rider

01-23-2009, 09:52 PM

Well most of the time i stay in 4th gear going between 55 and 60 mph. I rarely ever go above 60 (last thing i need is another ticket) Is this to much strain?

Yes....no.....maybe!
The question is: Why ??

Unless you are in a situation like Alan, with some adverse riding conditions, like significant hills, why NOT shift to 5th?

The little beast will pull moderate hills in 5th at 60 and will even tollerate a moderate headwind.
I usually shift to 5th around 45, unless I'm in a hurry or bucking a serious wind........and I have a higher final drive ratio with a 16T front sprocket.

5th gear is there for a reason; use it when you can.

JWR

01-23-2009, 10:08 PM

I always use 5th gear. If I really need to get up to speed I will use 4th up to 60 or 65.
Mine will also go about 70 in 4th.

I have never had a day that I don't usually hit 75 on it.

I have a 16 tooth sprocket ordered, should be in by the middle of next week.

Easy Rider

01-23-2009, 10:39 PM

I have a 16 tooth sprocket ordered, should be in by the middle of next week.

You will LOVE it below 60 or so; above that, maybe not so much.

I almost never have a need to go over 65 so I love it all the time!!!

JWR

01-23-2009, 11:22 PM

I may get fooled but I believe my bike will pull the 16 t ok in 5th gear.
I have always been able to ride at speed in side or head winds.

We shall see.

dan_

01-23-2009, 11:24 PM

Does WFO stand for yer bike saying "WHAT THE FUCK?? OUCH!!!"..?

JWR

01-23-2009, 11:50 PM

I believe it is WIDE F...en OPEN.

A lot of the time some say WOT or wide open throttle.

01-24-2009, 11:25 AM

Okay, noob question and I'm not sure if I should make it a new thread, but it seems related to this one, though it goes in the "opposite" direction, if you will. What, exactly, is "under shifting" and why would - or should one - ever do it?

Before I got my bike, the few times I'd been on a motorcycle I was mainly concerned with just staying upright. Now that I'm trying to learn how to ride one with some skill, this thread in particular has been helpful. But I have read in a few places about "under shifting" (not addressed in my MSF course). Seems the opposite of what this thread has been about, from what I gather. Why do it? Easier on the engine? Better on gas? What are the caveats/concerns?

Thanks,

Keith

JWR

01-24-2009, 11:35 AM

From what I understand of your question, this would be to shift easy and quickly thru the gears to get the most fuel mileage.

Not for the most performance, but economy.

I do not ride like that, wish I could. Too much right hand for me.

Easy Rider

01-24-2009, 12:35 PM

Does WFO stand for yer bike saying "WHAT THE FUCK?? OUCH!!!"..?

Yes, you got that right !! :crackup

Easy Rider

01-24-2009, 12:41 PM

What, exactly, is "under shifting" and why would - or should one - ever do it?

Why do it? Easier on the engine? Better on gas?

Yes and yes but not much. It's the "little old lady" style of riding.

With a small engine, the main risk is getting run over by the vehicle behind you !!
If you carry it to an extreme and "lug" the engine, it can be damaged......quickly.

alanmcorcoran

01-24-2009, 03:30 PM

I'd say the recommended shift points in the manual (which is how I rode for the first 1K or so) are "undershifting." I think you have to look at who you are and what you are trying to accomplish with the bike. If you:

1) Bought the bike to save gas money, shift sooner, accelerate like a little old lady and forget about riding over 55.
2) Financed the bike for seven years and have to collect cans to buy filters and oil, see #1.
3) Bought the bike to have some fun before you die and have more money than God, double the recommended shifting points, and ride WFO all the time.

I don't know how long mine will last with the way I ride it, but, when I'm out riding it, my first priority is enjoying the ride, second is not getting run over, and the life of the bike is, well, lower on my list. This is obviously not going to be the case for everyone, so there really is no one answer to this question.

I have seen other posts on other forums that suggest there is a built in limiter before redline, but this could just be internet folklore. I run mine up to 55-60 regularly in fourth and it's pretty much a must for freeway or hills. Having the other bike will help alleviate this, as I will mostly be using the big one for anything other than the office commute.

dan_

01-24-2009, 03:38 PM

Alan u crack me up..

mr. softie

01-31-2009, 07:09 PM

I have a 16 tooth sprocket ordered, should be in by the middle of next week.

Say JWR, where did you find a 16 tooth?

JWR

01-31-2009, 08:51 PM

Sprocket specialist from CA.
My dealer tried to order from JT but they always showed ( expecting
to be in stock) but it never came up as available.

If Sprocket Specialist does not have it in stock, they will build you one.

Took 10 days and cost $22. 00.

Took longer to clean the chain guard than to install the sprocket.