leaking engine pls help, got pics

[sheikh2]

When i got this bike it was in a garage for a good 2-3 years, just sitting there no one was maintaining it. battery was dead or something so i bought and got it a battery and did a maint. on it, i didnt have much money so i couldnt FULLY repair everything.
the repair guy did an 1. Oil & Filter change 2. brake change 3. back tire replacement. and a bit of tune here and there like the idle and stuff. when i got the bill it came to like $235 he told me i have a slippery clutch. so i just took that in mind , and i found out i do have a slippery clutch, but its not so severe, but it is getting worse, anyway so i have these pics for what i am truly concerned of right now.
http://www.postimage.org/aV1Fa9PA.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV1Fa9PA)
the left engine side is leaking some black oil
http://www.postimage.org/aV1FajO9.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV1FajO9)
another view #2
http://www.postimage.org/aV1FawgS.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV1FawgS)
view #3
http://www.postimage.org/Pq1G2lJ9.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Pq1G2lJ9)
and in this picture somewhere under the bolt of the exhaust pipe, white puffs of smoke comes out every time i rev, when i am in neutral i look down and rev the throttle, the bigger the rev is the bigger the puffs of smoke get.


I also found out that i have been riding this bike in reserve fuel for a 190 miles (since i bought the bike),total miles on the bike 6,884, total miles after i bought the bike ( that i have rode on it) 208

If you need me to post more detailed pics just PM me

[alanmcorcoran]

The "reserve" is a misnomer. It is just an alternate fuel path that is deeper in the tank than the "regular" one.

YOU PROBABLY NEED GAS RIGHT NOW!

If you have it on "reserve" and you run out, you are walking...

BTW, the reserve switch is very confusing. If you look closely, there is a little arrow embossed on it. Generally speaking, the "long" end is the pointing end, even though it could easily be interpreted as pointing the other way. There are some good pics about this in other related posts.

Also, I don't know $hit about motorcycle engines, but white puffs of smoke usually mean oil in the cylinder and often the source is the rings are shot (don't seal). Toyota Camry's are notorious for this - the oil tends to leak into the cylinders while "at rest" and when you start it up, you get a nice oil cloud. The good news is, if it doesn't bother you, you can drive (the Toyotas, anyway) like this for quite some time without any further symptoms. Eventually though, Bad Things Happen.

There are many others on this site with encyclopedic knowledge of the GZ engine and I am sure they will:

1) Tell you exactly what your problem is.
2) Tell me to please stop talking about things of which I know little.

Good luck!

[Easy Rider]

1) Tell you exactly what your problem is.
2) Tell me to please stop talking about things of which I know little.

Good luck!

Not at all.....on both counts.
We love the sound of your fingers typing away !! :)

As for the original problem(s), I really hope you paid close to nothing for the bike because with all the problems it has, that's about what it is worth.

My guess is that it needs a clutch job...couple of hundred $ and a head gasket....another couple of hundred. Neither job is one for a novice.

As long as you can manage, riding with a slipping clutch really won't make that repair more costly....BUT riding it with a leaking head gasket might trash the engine completely......if you let it get too bad.

Sorry...and yes, good luck!

[jonathan180iq]

What kind of oil did the mechanic put in your bike?
I am assuming that you took it to a motorcycle shop and the guy knew what he was doing. People who have used automotive synthetic oils have had problems with the clutch slipping.

My first suggestion on the head leak (my initial thought is that it looks like you need a head gasket) is to clean the crap out of your cooling fins and engine. Let it all dry. Go for a short 5-10 minute ride and see where the leak is coming from. If it hasn't shown up after 5-10 minutes, go for another rider, around 15-20 minutes. This is will definitively tell you where you need to focus your attention, and it won't cost you the trouble of repairing something that might not need repairing.

It's possible, although I do doubt it, as your leak looks worse, that you are experiencing the small head leak that everyone seems to get right around 6,000 miles. I had the same thing. Washed it off once and it never came back. Other people have experienced the same thing.

[Easy Rider]

I had the same thing. Washed it off once and it never came back.

Maybe that's because it is really NOT a head leak at all !! ?? :??: :biggrin:

[Badbob]

I had the same thing. Washed it off once and it never came back.

Maybe that's because it is really NOT a head leak at all !! ?? :??: :biggrin:

I started my engine once with the oil filler cap off. I think I'm still oozing oil out of the cracks.

[jonathan180iq]

Maybe that's because it is really NOT a head leak at all !! ?? :??: :biggrin:


Yeah, exactly.

[sheikh2]

"People who have used automotive synthetic oils have had problems with the clutch slipping."

well i know it is supposed to take regular 10-40 or something and not synthetic oil. but i do remember the guy saying he put synthetic and i was told to put regular oil from another mechanic before i took it for a service. but i didn't correct the guy who fixed (or "messed up") my bike lol, cuz he was the "real mechanic" -_- (i wish i did) anyway if i change the oil to reg. would that solve the slippery clutch or just prevent it from getting worse?, or not do anything. and i don't have any tools for fixing a bike can anyone tell what i will need and if i should try to fix it my self or do i have to take it to a mechanic?

[Water Warrior 2]

"People who have used automotive synthetic oils have had problems with the clutch slipping."

well i know it is supposed to take regular 10-40 or something and not synthetic oil. but i do remember the guy saying he put synthetic and i was told to put regular oil from another mechanic before i took it for a service. but i didn't correct the guy who fixed (or "messed up") my bike lol, cuz he was the "real mechanic" -_- (i wish i did) anyway if i change the oil to reg. would that solve the slippery clutch or just prevent it from getting worse?, or not do anything. and i don't have any tools for fixing a bike can anyone tell what i will need and if i should try to fix it my self or do i have to take it to a mechanic?
You can use automotive or bike oil. Dino or synthetic, your choice. Must be at least a 40 weight as in 10-40, 15-40 or 20-40. Once you get into the 40 weight oils they rarely use friction molifiers in the oil. That is what will toast a clutch. If the back side label says Energy Conserving it will contain molifiers. Stay away from them in a bike with an oil bath clutch system.
Some old time bike mechanics might still be using 10-30 oils b/c they were okay 25 years ago. Oils have changed and so have bikes.

[Easy Rider]

I started my engine once with the oil filler cap off. I think I'm still oozing oil out of the cracks.

Confession time? I recently added some oil to my car. Alas, I forgot to put the cap back on and the hood closed with the cap sitting on the top of the engine just fine. :cry:

The REALLY bad part is that the next person to drive it was my WIFE and sister-in-law on a road trip. :skull:

Got a new cap at Auto Zone but the oil is still dripping out of the insulating liner inside the hood......8 months later......it only lost about 1/2 quart !! :biggrin:

[Easy Rider]

anyway if i change the oil to reg. would that solve the slippery clutch or just prevent it from getting worse?, or not do anything. and i don't have any tools for fixing a bike can anyone tell what i will need and if i should try to fix it my self or do i have to take it to a mechanic?

Changing the oil might help; might not too. It is an inexpensive thing to try before doing a major repair.

People in your position.....no tools and no real knowlege or experience with major repairs.....often make matters worse when they attempt their own repairs. I recommend taking it to a respected mechanic......unless you are REALLY wanting to learn something MORE than you want to ride !! :cool:

[jonathan180iq]

A simple oil change is something that you can easily do on your own, but you will need a couple of tools.

See this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=566 (http://www.gz250bike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=566)

There is also a lot of converstion in there about using automotive synthetic oils with friction inhibitors.
To make sure that everything is "A-OK" spend a little more cash and get MOTORCYCLE oil. Just to be safe.

If your clutch still slips after the oil change, then you'll need to start thinking about clutch work.

[Sarris]

You might try a simple clutch adjustment after your oil change. Also, lube the cable.

:)

[Easy Rider]

You might try a simple clutch adjustment after your oil change.

:)

Has nobody mentioned a simple clutch adjustment ?? Guess not; good catch! :)

So......DO you have a little slack in the clutch cable ?? If not, an adjustment might help.

[Badbob]

A clutch can get slippery for other reasons. If you use your clutch a lot it can get slick enough to cause it to slip. You can take it out and rough up the surface a bit with some sand paper to fix this.

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1568 (http://www.gz250bike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1568)