GZ250 'throttle cap tightener bolt'

[TXtwowheeler]

The long thin bolt running into the handlebar through the throttle and through the cap on the end of the handlebar rattled loose. I was trying to tighten it back in, but way down 4 inches inside, the piece that's supposed to receive the threads got pushed too far in when I was trying to get the threads started. Now I can't reach it. The cap is off, and I can't get it back on until I get the piece back out where I can reach it.

First: Any tricks to getting it back out?

Second: Any tricks to avoiding having it rattle loose again?

I'm pretty handy, and have a moderate assortment of automotive tools, etc, but new to bikes.
Thanks in advance for your help.

[music man]

Are you talking about the black bar ends?

[Easy Rider]

The cap is off, and I can't get it back on until I get the piece back out where I can reach it.

First: Any tricks to getting it back out?

Second: Any tricks to avoiding having it rattle loose again?


Last question first: Blue locktite.....or a little fingernail polish. And when you put it back on, do NOT overtighten. Very snug is about right.

First question: It depends on what pieces are IN and which ones are OUT. If you have the rubber expansion plug OUT, then with the help of a friend you should be able to lean the bike over to that side and shake the nut (and washer) out of the bar end.

If (more likely) you don't have the rubber plug out, then things get more difficult. First, try the bolt by itself, without the weight.
Failing that, a coat hanger with a tight hook at the end might work.
Third option would be a long lag bolt (wood screw) about the same size as the assembly bolt.

I think probably the best thing you can do is to remove the OTHER one so you can see exactly how it works. Loosen the bolt/screw just to the point where it feels loose; NO FARTHER. Then get a firm grip on the weight (or bolt or both) and PULL/wiggle the whole thing out of the bar. The whole thing comes out as an assembly, not in individual pieces.

Good luck!

[TXtwowheeler]

Thank you for replies. I'm going to try the coat hanger with tight hook. The plug is down in there so shaking it out won't get it.

Yes, it's the bar end. I'm not well-versed in the part names. I noticed in pictures of other people's bikes, that it's not a problem unique to me. Thanks to all for help!

[Dupo]

Coat hanger can work. Ive done it once. 2nd time i had to saw the bars in half and buy new bars from a local bike shop.

[Easy Rider]

Coat hanger can work. Ive done it once. 2nd time i had to saw the bars in half and buy new bars from a local bike shop.

You are serious aren't you?
You were wanting to change the bars for another reason, weren't you ?? :??:

I can't imagine anybody really doing that......just to get the rubber plug, nut and washer out of the bars.

Before doing that, I would first find a long lag bolt about the same size as the assembly bolt. It should "catch" the hole in the plug and enable you to pull it out.
Failing that, I would just leave them in there and get a new bar-end weight assembly. It can't be THAT expensive. :)

[Dupo]

Uhhhh yea i am serious. On the old GZ i had ..... took the bar end off and that dam piece fell in, all the way in. Couldnt get it out by tilting the bar. One side came out by grabbing the plug with a coat hanger and the other one grabbed but kept getting stuck.

I sawed it in half to get the plug and nut out. Nut fell in and the plug got pushed in too far. Those plugs get f'king stuck ... try it some time.

The bars were probably as cheap as new bar ends quite honestly. The GZ has very simple design .. cheapo bars.

[Canuck]

YES FINALLY someone else did it and brought it to this forum!
wanted to save myself the embarrassment.... hahaa!!
so the cheapest fix is to Saw the bars off get new ones... and recover the lost pieces?

[Easy Rider]

so the cheapest fix is to Saw the bars off get new ones... and recover the lost pieces?

I suggest that you price the parts and make that judgement for yourself. I am skeptical.

Some of us that have LOTS of mechanical expertise tend to ...mmmm... forget what it's like for someone who doesn't. :roll: :biggrin:

[music man]

The only draw back to leaving them in there(the hardware to the bar-ends) is I ended up doing that and I can hear them rattling around in there from time to time.

[Water Warrior 2]

It is also possible to blow the parts out from the other side using compressed air.

[TXtwowheeler]

Thanks guys for all the input. I actually tried the coat hanger before posting the original question. With no brighter ideas surfacing, I took to the coat hanger plan again with renewed determination. I got the rubber plug out, but the nut is still in there. It's all the way down to the middle of the bar. I'm thinking I'll just get a new nut and let the original rattle in there. I can't hear it with the engine running. I have to give Suzuki the thumbs down for their design in this particular case. I love my GZ, but with so many of us having the same problem, it seems a design flaw. I have to scratch my head. Especially, having the nut on the back side of a rubber plug, where it will most certainly fall off and get lost if the thing rattles loose.....

Anyway, I may try to get it out with a magnet before I go and buy another nut. You can bet I'll glue the nut to the back side of the plug, AND use loctite when I put it back together.

[patrick_777]

This isn't just a Suzuki design. A lot of other manufacturers use the same method for their bar ends. Kawa actually uses red loctite in theirs, so you literally can't get it out without destroying it in the process.

[mr. softie]

My bike was missing the bar end weights when I got it. My local bike shop had some nice heavy chrome ones for $8/pair. :roll:

[Badbob]

I've used a small long lag bolt to get the rubber part out. Once that is out you can dump the nut out of the bars.

[Easy Rider]

Anyway, I may try to get it out with a magnet before I go and buy another nut. You can bet I'll glue the nut to the back side of the plug, AND use loctite when I put it back together.

The magnet will probably work.....as would laying the bike on it's side momentarily.....with help from another person.

Anything you put on the nut or threads that makes the nut tighter will lessen the likelyhood of it coming loose.......even if you WANT it to at some later time. IOW, you won't be able to get it loose even if you want to. Probably NOT a good idea. :)

[alantf]

Nut rattling around inside the bars? Just a thought, but how about the cylinders of expanding foam you use for D.I.Y. around the house. Do you think it would be possible to shove the long tube that's fitted to the cannister, down the tube & give a short blast. When it sets it should stop the nut rattling. I've never tried it as I managed to get the bits out with a wire coat hanger, but I suppose that it should work.

[alanmcorcoran]

I debated weighing in here as I am neither mechanically inclined, nor do I know anything at all about the in's and outs of the Suzuki front end, but, what the hey...

Is the handlebar removable without cutting it in half? If so, remove the bars from the bike and all of the attachments, then use centrifugal force to dislodge the prodigal nut (swing it like a bat or a tennis racket) and move it back towards the end. If your alternative is cutting and replacing the bars, this seems like it won't take any longer and may eliminate the need to buy new bars.

[TXtwowheeler]

With a coat hanger I managed to get the rubber part out, but the nut remains. I never hear it. I could replace it for a few cents. It's on my list. I don't have an able-bodied friend handy to help me turn the bike over and shake it out. (I know, it's sad but true.)

[Easy Rider]

With a coat hanger I managed to get the rubber part out, but the nut remains.

A flexible magnetic "pickup" would probably work. I think I'd be tempted to leave it alone.

[5th_bike]

With a coat hanger I managed to get the rubber part out, but the nut remains.

A flexible magnetic "pickup" would probably work. I think I'd be tempted to leave it alone.
I got the nut out by putting it on its side, on the lawn, and shaking it a bit. It will just roll out.

[Badbob]

Mark the position on the bars so you can put them back in the same place. A sharpie will work and you can get the marks off with alcohol.

Take out the four bolts in the clamps that hold bars on. There is no need to remove any of the controls.

Tip the bars and shake the nut out.

Reassemble.

[Canuck]

I was curious if this could be the cause of excess "harmonic resonance that would cause a "Buzz" or rattle as you accelerate up through the gears...

I find at higher RPMs i tend to get a loud vibration coming from the front of the engine... I've tightened the bolts everywhere....made little change...and I just added Chain Wax to the drive chain hoping that would stifle those sounds...

nothings worked yet...

anyone else had these Harmonic Resonance Issues?

Thanks All

[Easy Rider]

anyone else had these Harmonic Resonance Issues?


Yes.
It kinda comes with the territory when you have a thumper.......even one that is counter-balanced. If you short shift and ride like a little old lady you won't notice it much at all !! :whistle:

How long since you've had the valves checked?
IIRC, there is also a cam chain tensioner that needs periodic adjustment.

AND here's a really wild idea: If you have any spokes loose, they could even be "singing". :shocked:

[mr. softie]

Canuck...How high are you revving the poor little thing anyway? :roll: It does buzz pretty much at high revs, Do you have a windshield? That can make the noise from the top end seem louder and "buzzier". Also Like Easy said it might be time for a valve lash check /adjustment if the top end is noisy.


Some folks fill their handlebars with lead shot and foam insulation to kill the buzz (not me!). Or better yet try foam or silicone padded grips to lessen the effect of vibration on the old hands and arms. I got some heavy chrome bar ends (see previous post on this thread) which do help. Plus a set of "superbike" cushioned grips that do a better job than stock.
http://www.postimage.org/gxy94ji.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxy94ji)

http://www.postimage.org/aV16PybA.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV16PybA)

[Dupo]

so the cheapest fix is to Saw the bars off get new ones... and recover the lost pieces?

I suggest that you price the parts and make that judgement for yourself. I am skeptical.

Some of us that have LOTS of mechanical expertise tend to ...mmmm... forget what it's like for someone who doesn't. :roll: :biggrin:

I know this is old, but daym .....

1. the bar replacement cost ... 19.99 from a local shop.
2. no one that i could find, sold bar ends 'alone'. Had to be ordered or bought with new grips.
3. bars were more readily available and would solve the problem that day, instead of waiting. worth the 20.00 cost of new bars.
4. mechanic by trade, thanks, just because i saw bars in half doesnt make me or anyone else less experienced.

[Easy Rider]

mechanic by trade, thanks, just because i saw bars in half doesnt make me or anyone else less experienced.

I don't know HOW you got that out of what I said. I meant just the OPPOSITE. :??:

Those who work as a mechanic or have lots of experience as an "amateur" tend to suggest things as "easy" that might NOT be for the novice public at large.

I still don't agree that sawing the bars in half, removing all the levers and controls and then putting it all back together.........just to replace a bar end weight is a prudent thing to do, for the "average" rider, that is. (Come to think of it, why would you have to saw the old bars in half to remove and replace them??? Maybe I'm missing something here.)

I just looked at a parts fische for the GZ and bar-end weights ARE available, only as a set of 2, for about $23 (MSRP) but any 7/8" end weights from a salvage yard should work too.
If you sell off the extra one for ~$10, then your cost is down to about $13 and the actual repair time down to about 2 minutes.

[mrlmd1]

What did you cut the bars with? Are they stainless or just chromed? SS may take a few hacksaw blades, but I bet these bars are just plain steel with a chrome finish.

[mr. softie]

I bought a set of bar end weights at my local bike shop for $10 and put them on in 10 minutes.
http://www.postimage.org/Pq1c22si.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Pq1c22si)

Lots easier than removing cutting replacing bars etc IMHO, but then I'm lazy. O_o

[Easy Rider]

I bought a set of bar end weights at my local bike shop for $10 and put them on in 10 minutes.
Lots easier than removing cutting replacing bars etc IMHO, but then I'm lazy. O_o

:plus1:
I'd call that practical! :tup: