Excessive Battery Drain

[douglaskinney_phd]

I have an 08 GZ250. I have installed a set of driving lights, installing the power supply to the fuse box for the ignition switch. I also have a rocker switch installed to power the lights off. I can ride the bike a couple of days..about 30 miles and the bike will not start. Lights are dim and starter will not turn over. Can push start and ride. Are driving lights pulling too many amps for the bike to charge the battery. Bike was purchased new in July.

Update: Because I wanted to keep a set of driving lights and a brighter head lamp I did the following. I replaced my Brake Light with an LED bulb, put a on/off switch on the driving lights and only use them during fog or night driving. I am also going to replace the turn signals with LED's. I added a small LED strip on my back fender right below the tag, and one under the gas tank. Cool Blue glow at night. Head Lamp is now the correct rating. I will post some pics under mods when I can get some good one taken.

[patrick_777]

Yes. That's exactly what is going on. The bike is not able to charge the battery enough with the power drain from the lights.

[alanmcorcoran]

I was told by a dealer that you need 30 mins of running engine to restore the charge used to start the bike. This is without any add-ons. This seems exaggerated, but it's no secret the charging system is not exactly robust.

Sarris, Easy Rider and others have posted about battery tenders which would allow you to recharge the battery, but I think you are gonna just kill it every time you ride it. Your battery might already be toast too. Excessive discharge allegedly kills the battery beyond resuscitation. I'm not Mr. Mechanical but I drained my down with a taillight incident and learned a bit from it.

I'd recommend you forego the add-ons.

[Sarris]

:plus1: to Patricks comment.

If you can find an auto electric shop (there aren't many anymore) you may be able to get the alternator rewound to produce a higher output. Other than that you're screwed.

Also, GZ's will not push start and/or run if the battery is completely discharged (dead).

:skull: :skull: :skull:

[patrick_777]

I wonder if there's a way to put a Boulevard alternator or other aftermarket charging coil on the GZ...

[Easy Rider]

Are driving lights pulling too many amps for the bike to charge the battery. Bike was purchased new in July.

Yes, that is exactly what is happening.
You have only 2 practical choices:
1) Replace the lights with someting like LEDs which will draw much less power
or
2) Use the aux. lights only at night when you really need them and carry a Battery Tender with you at all times.

Actually #2 really isn't a good choice because if you drain the battery too low too many times, it won't come back "up" again.

I'm afraid you made a mistake.

[Water Warrior 2]

The GZ has approx 50 watts extra to play with for add ons. I would doubt there is a feasable way to upgrade the charging system. For better lighting at night a SilverStar bulb will be an improvement over OEM with the same power requirements. Also change your driving lights to a lower wattage bulb(20/25 watts each)and give it a whirl. Might be all you need.

[Badbob]

For better lighting at night a SilverStar bulb will be an improvement over OEM with the same power requirements.

Better lighting but way more expensive when you consider that that don't last near as long.

[douglaskinney_phd]

Thanks for all the information. I may have inadvertently found part of the problem. Will check it out and report back. I think maybe the headlamp was the problem. Rated too high...have replaced with original wattage and will test the driving lamps with new set up.

[Easy Rider]

I think maybe the headlamp was the problem. Rated too high...have replaced with original wattage and will test the driving lamps with new set up.

Well now THAT would be very unusual. What kind of bulb did you find in there?

And what is the wattage rating of your add-on driving lamps?

If we know that we can tell what's going to happen without much actual testing.

[Water Warrior 2]

Thanks for all the information. I may have inadvertently found part of the problem. Will check it out and report back. I think maybe the headlamp was the problem. Rated too high...have replaced with original wattage and will test the driving lamps with new set up.
A 55/60 watt bulb is required. What did you find in there ?

[jonathan180iq]

I was told by a dealer that you need 30 mins of running engine to restore the charge used to start the bike. This is without any add-ons. This seems exaggerated, but it's no secret the charging system is not exactly robust.



That has to be exaggerated. In day to day riding, I might only ride for 30 minutes once a month. That includes riding to and from work everyday and riding to lunch while on break. I also have two electrical accessories installed, one, the volt meter, of which is a constant drain on the battery.

Cranking lowers the voltage to around 10.5 or 11.o volts. Riding at any speed gives a pretty constant 13.3-13.6 volts, which I assume is charging. Even at long red lights or some shorter train stops, it hovers around 12.3V.

[Magnar Infectus]

I was told by a dealer that you need 30 mins of running engine to restore the charge used to start the bike.
If this is true, I'm hosed. My drive to work is between 10 and 20 minutes. And it usually takes me less than 30 minutes to get anywhere I want to go on the weekends.

[Easy Rider]

I was told by a dealer that you need 30 mins of running engine to restore the charge used to start the bike.

That has to be exaggerated.

Even at long red lights or some shorter train stops, it hovers around 12.3V.

It depends on how long you have to crank to get it started. If it fires on the first or second revolution like mine does most of the time, then it is WAY exagerated.

Your voltmeter draws only a teeny-tiny bit of current; not significant unless we are talking storage for MONTHS. Remember, however, that nominal battery voltage is 12.6 V. Anything less than that and it is DIS-charging. The "break even" point is probably about 13 V.

[douglaskinney_phd]

O.K. I would say healight was part of the problem. I ordered the wrong replacement bulb. 130/90 watt.....just a little bit much....worked great by itself but didn't play well with the 35 watt driving lights. And that puppy was really nice and bright.

[Easy Rider]

And that puppy was really nice and bright.

Yep, the low beam is about 40 watts too high; there goes all your reserve capactiy!
Good thing you didn't run it on high very long. 130 watts might be enough for things to start melting!! :skull:

Are the driving lights 35 watts total......or 35 each?
If it is each and there are two.....70 watts extra probably leaves you still in trouble, just not as much. :cry:

[Water Warrior 2]

For better lighting at night a SilverStar bulb will be an improvement over OEM with the same power requirements.

Better lighting but way more expensive when you consider that that don't last near as long.
Total agreement there. The GZ vibrates just enough to kill a SS prematurely. The VStrom doesn't have anywhere near the vibs so all is well. Had them in a cage for 4.5 years without a failure too. PIAA does make an anti-vibration bulb with a one year guarantee but they are very spendy and possibly overkill for lighting. Highway signage will reflect too much of the light back at you and really mess with your vision on ocassions. It is nice to have the options for better lighting whether you use them or not.

[Water Warrior 2]

O.K. I would say healight was part of the problem. I ordered the wrong replacement bulb. 130/90 watt.....just a little bit much....worked great by itself but didn't play well with the 35 watt driving lights. And that puppy was really nice and bright.

You are lucky not to have any damage. The heat generated in the headlight housing could have peeled the reflective surface or melted something. Also the light duty wiring in the GZ would have been close to going up in smoke. Hi wattage bulbs are best left to much larger vehicles with a relay system to power the bulbs.

[purslant]

I made the mistake of turning my key all the way back to park after getting to work.
No one noticed until 11 hrs later, and it was dark.
GZ started right up, no problems. This was about 4 weeks ago.
I also have a 15 minute drive to work, and back. I have had no problems.
The 30 minute re-charge for each start doesn’t sound right to me.

[alanmcorcoran]

Yeah, my ride to work is about the same as yours. I thought the guy was exaggerating a bit when he said it, but, I'm a newb and he is the service manager, so who am I to challenge him.

When I left my tallight on all night and most of the next day, my bike would not start, so it can drain it all the way down.