winter storage - 6 weeks plus

[one]

can anyone provide some insight regarding winter storage? I will be keeping the bike in y garage, it might get to 40 but i would think it would stay in the 50's. Basically, I am asking about fuel stabilizer - how much fuel to keep in it, if I should put some oil in the cylinder, disconnect the battery keeeping it on a trickle charge, if the tires will develop flat spots, etc...

[Water Warrior 2]

Six weeks is not long term storage in my opinion so here is what I would do. Take the battery out and store it in a warm place. Lower tire pressures to about 20 psi and just give the wheels a quarter turn every three weeks or so to prevent flat spots if that is a concern. Opinions are just opinions and I know others will pop up with other storage technics. Sift through them and make a choice that feels right to you.

[Dupo]

Keep the tank full as possible. That way no condensation can develop in it. Only 6 weeks, doubt you will need to put oil in the cylinder. Trickle charger - good idea. Fuel stabilizer, add it before you fill the tank, drive it home so the stabil gets into the carbs. You can also shut off the fuel and let it die to empty the carb too. Doubt flat spots would be a concern in that short a time especially since it will be in a garage on concrete. If you have cats that roam around in your garage area, cover the top of the bike with towels - they like to sleep on bikes lol. A good wash and a very good waxing is also a good idea right before putting it in.

[Bill]

I agree - a full tank with Stabil run through the lines is cheap insurance even if it is only stored for 6 weeks. If it is going to be in your garage and the temperatures are going to be that warm then you may want to take it out a few times when the weather is really nice. You wouldn't need to do anything else for the battery or tires. I don't think I could stand seeing my bike sitting if the weather was good and I had the time - even for just an hour. Just don't make the mistake of going out to the garage and cranking it up and letting it sit there. It would need to be ridden/moving enough to get all areas up to operating temperatures and circulate the fluids. Besides it will put a smile on your face. :yes:

Cheers!

[Badbob]

I would consider using a battery keeper of some sort. They don't cost much and your battery will be charged when your ready to start the pike. I have a Black and Decker battery keeper that I like a lot. It comes withe a wiring kit you can connect permanently to a battery and just plug it in when the bike is parked. These are sold under several different names and you don't need one specifically for a motorcycle battery. I get concerned about any small battery that sits unused for any length of time. They don't last long under the best of conditions. I would not consider 40 degrees cold and I live in Florida. If its not going to get cold enough to freeze the battery I would leave it in the bike.

Fuel stabilizer is a good idea as well as the full tank of gas as well running it until it gets in the carburetor. I keep a good bit have gasoline around and use Sta-Bil in all of the gas cans and use a good bit of it in the bikes. Saves on lots of carburetor cleaning.

This might be a good time to lube everything although if it were mine I would not change the oil unless it was near time to do it any way. Six weeks isn't long enough for this to be an issue.

Expect the GZ250 to be a little harder to start after six weeks without running.

I think there are storage procedures in the GZ250 manual.

Thats my 2 cents worth.

[oneyunguy]

So what would I suggest to someone I know who didn't know much about a bike sitting around? The bike has sat for approximately 4-5 months (not ran in that time). They did take the battery out, but left a fair amount of gas in the tank (not totally full), They did not empty the oil and refill with new before sitting, and did nothing else but cover it outside.

I only told them to look for rust, this person has not enough knowledge to takr things apart and so-on.

Thanks,
Mike

[Dupo]

I'd say use a flashlight and look in the tank for any signs of rust. Drain the tank and carbs completely and refill with new gas (put some seafoam in with the fresh gas, that will clean everything out). Check the tires for dryrot, check all cables for any binding, change oil and spark plugs, check chain for any dryness/rust and lube if necessary, put the battery on a tender and make sure its fully charged.... im sure i missed something lol.

4-5 months outside is a long time, hopefully the carbs dont need cleaning.

[oneyunguy]

Okay, thanks Dupo. What would be the easiest way to see if the carbs would need cleaning?
I will help drain the gas thats in the tank and take a good look at it.

[Dupo]

No good way of 'seeing', but it'll run like crap lol. It'll sputter, stall, no power etc. Carbs gummed up isnt fun.

[one]

can the carb be gummed up and cleaned with an additive to the fuel opposed to being broken down and cleaned manually? or, with fresh fuel passing through will it clean itself?

this did not happen to me but i am curious?

[Dupo]

As far as i know, if its not gummed up too bad you can use something like SeaFoam in the tank to clean it up. If its very gummed up then things just wont move and flow like they are supposed to. That stuff is like molasses when it gets bad. Thats when its going to need to be broken down and done manually or professionally. I would imagine he should be alright with some SeaFoam additive and fresh gas. Also as far as i know, fresh fuel will not break that stuff down.

I do recommend SeaFoam though. Most every forum i belong to says to use it if your bike has been sitting. Stuff is awesome on cars too.

[oneyunguy]

Well, I went out to the local Napa and purchased some Seafoam. :rawk: I got some Premium Mohawk gas as well. When I looked at what came out of the petcock, it looked fine, still a slight amberish and smelled like gas should, no particles. I will drain the old, and put the new gas in with some seafoam. ((HOW MUCH????))

I will also heat the engine with a heater to get the old oil more viscous to drain better. Then will add new oil to crankcase with some seafoam.((HOW MUCH????))

I was thinking as well, if the oil is in the rings and cylinder, should I add a little seafoam into there as well? Or will plain WD-40 do what it might need? (some help to lube the cylinder on top end and some firing help on initial starting) :??:

[one]

now if this is out of place then say so....

for winter storage of my boat (outboard engine) i would fill the carb with a product until it would stall. then I would pull the plugs and fill the cylinders with oil.

with that said, i am suggesting putting some oil in the plug hole then hand turning the engine over with the plugs out before the "startup". this would do what you're intending to do with WD40 but not adding another chemical to the engine. if too much oil is put in the hole then you'll have to clean the plugs after you're running.

[Dupo]

Read the can directions for how much! I dont have one in front of me, but you really dont need alot at all for a motorcycle. seafoam is great for oil and gas. You CAN put it in the cylinders too if you choose. Read this on their website: http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTech.htm Theres alot of info on their site. If you still have a question, they DO answer emails! They have a great staff on hand for helping you use their product.

boat engine and bike engine 2 different things. but, you are correct with filling with product till stalling ... Stabil mixed in a full tank, turn off fuel to carbs, let run till it dies (after running the bike a few miles to make sure the stabil mixes well and is IN the carbs). I have read that putting oil in the cylinders isnt that great of a thing to do on motorcycles for short term storage. i'll see if i can find what i read about that and put it up here. and One is right, too much oil in there you will have fouled plugs. You can buy some Fogging Oil to put in the cylinders and is made specifically for this application.

i would suggest NOT using WD40 in the cylinders. that stuff is water based... and you know what water does. Get yourself some fogging oil or use the Seafoam.

[oneyunguy]

Okay, great advice. The can pretty much called for alot, Im talking 1/3 to half the can. Anyhow the website was alot more informative, I worked it out to this formula... For the OIL: 1.5 oz per quart, GAS: 1 oz per gallon. So that's what I did. In fact I used less than that.

When I drained the oil it looked good. This person changed the oil and filter right before it got parked. I wasn't too worried about it after I looked at it, but put the new in anyways.

After draining the gas(from the tank, not the carb), swishing a small amount of seafoam around, then putting a few liters of gas in, the oil was replaced with a small amount of seafoam, and a new filter(of course).

Meanwhile a small amount of wd-40 was sprayed through the spark plug hole (this after talking to a 30 year veteran mechanic), and put it in nuetral and cranked it around a few times while carefully listening for anything abnormal! BTW- I will not use WD40 for the cylinder again, maybe just a light oil.

After that was complete, everything was replaced, and checked once more. Phew, nothing abnormal so far except a tiny amount of what could be rust inside the tank.

Battery goes in, choke goes on full and voila, after 2 tries on the starter, 3rd time lucky. Let er run for awhile and smelled the exhaust, (you can tell some things by doing this). Nothing abnormal, except some smokey exhaust (it was very moist and cool and raining..kinda expected that), not too mention the additive.

All is well. Next will be to drain the oil once more and replace with new again.

All in all not too bad results, Thanks for all the good advice!



i did notice fogging oil but didnt get any

[Quimrider]

A little history lesson on WD-40. We have the space program to thank for WD-40. The "WD" stands for water dehydrant. The 40 stands for the 40th revision of the formual (the one that worked best). The original design criteria for WD-40 was to keep moisture out to prevent corrosion while at the same time providing lubrication. With this as it's design criteria, I highly doubt they would choose let alone be able to accomplish this with a water based formula.

just my 2¢

[Easy Rider]

The "WD" stands for water dehydrant.

Close but no cigar.
I believe it is water DISPERSANT.

Otherwise, :tup:

[Dupo]

WD-40 literally stands for Water Displacement, 40th attempt. That's the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who developed WD-40 back in 1953. The chemist, Norm Larsen, was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion -- a task which is done by displacing water. Norm's persistence paid off when he perfected the formula on his 40th try.

[Easy Rider]

WD-40 literally stands for Water Displacement, 40th attempt.

Thanks for jogging my feeble memory.
Good cut from the WD40 web site, BTW.

[Quimrider]

ok so I was close :)