Winterization Tips?

[countrydad]

It is beginning to get cold here in Southeast Idaho, so I will soon be parking the bike for the winter :cry: .

Last year I removed the battery and added some fuel stabilizer to winterize. GZ fired up without any problems this Spring. Any suggestions of further winterization?

[Easy Rider]

Last year I removed the battery and added some fuel stabilizer to winterize. GZ fired up without any problems this Spring. Any suggestions of further winterization?

If it is anywhere close to needing an oil change, do it now instead of in the spring.
If you haven't lubed the chain lately, do that too.

How/where will it be stored? If it is protected at all from really extreme cold, it is not necessary to remove the battery. A battery tender type charger with a "quick connect" is handy. If the battery is healthy, a couple of hours a month is plenty to keep it healthy.

Be careful to NOT leave the petcock on PRIme !!

Make sure the tires are up to pressure.

That's about it.

[mrlmd1]

[quote="Easy Rider"

If it is anywhere close to needing an oil change, do it now instead of in the spring.
[/quote]

Good idea- same as with a boat, car, or any engine. Store it with clean oil rather than
letting the dirty oil with acids in it sit for 4-6months eating up the engine while you wait
for spring to come.

[Jer]

It gets downright COLD here. (IA) I'll remove the battery and take it inside.

Now to sound really stupid: Be careful to NOT leave the petcock on PRIme !!

Huh????

[Sarris]

We don't have that season in Florida, so I can't help you!

:ride: :haha:

[mrlmd1]

The fuel petcock below the left side of the gas tank has 3 positions for the valve - on, reserve, and prime. Look carefully at it, read the manual, and put it on ON, not PRIME, or fuel will be continuously dripping into the carb and on the floor if left in that position.

[Jer]

Ahhh Got it. Thanks!!!!

Sarris: Yeah, but you have HURRICANES!!!!!!! :)

[jonathan180iq]

I'd add fuel stabilizer to the mix again this year too. Also, I'd crank it once a month.

[Easy Rider]

It gets downright COLD here. (IA) I'll remove the battery and take it inside.


Yes, I KNOW how cold it gets; I lived in Des Moines for 2 years.....and where I am now isn't far off. If the bike is stored INSIDE a building, even one that is not heated, it is not necessary to remove the battery....if it is kept properly charged. Cold will not harm a charged battery until it gets to -40 F or so for an extended period.
But then, if it somehow makes you feel good, go right ahead.

+1 on the previous answer about PRIme.

[Easy Rider]

Also, I'd crank it once a month.

Haven't we discussed this before??

It is NOT a good idea to start a bike while in storage UNLESS you can let it run long enough to get up near normal operating temperature.....something like 5 to 10 minutes. In addition, with the GZ, just sitting at idle may result in a net loss of battery charge so you need to check the battery charge anyway.

NONE of the "professionals" who give storage tips recommend that; there must be a reason.

[countrydad]

Thanks for the tips everyone. I'm going to pull the battery since we do sustain some very cold temps (though not -40 degrees, we experience a consistent -teens). I am due for an oil change, and will be doing that as well. Probably will leave the chain for spring since I am pretty busy right now. I will double check the petcock even though I have checked it already.

I hadn't thought of the tire air pressure, so thanks for that one. Sad but try, Idaho is too cold to ride all year, but we don't have hurricanes, tornadoes, earthquakes on a regular basis, or 100+ degree weather for long periods of time. All in all, it is a beautiful place to be!

[jonathan180iq]

Haven't we discussed this before??



So he can't let the bike run for 10 minutes? If he's storing the battery anyway, a small net discharge won't be a big deal, since it will also be on a smart charger when not the bike, right?

He doesn't have to, but I would.

[Easy Rider]

So he can't let the bike run for 10 minutes? If he's storing the battery anyway, .....

What? Tell me you are kidding.

You/he is going to remove the battery and THEN put it back in every few weeks so you can run the bike for 10 minutes and THEN take it out again ??? I hope not.

I think some wires got crossed. I don't THINK anybody is that stupid; I believe the proposal was either/or.....remove the battery OR start it every few weeks.

[susan17]

Can you shut the fuel off on this bike?

I live in Toronto, Canada. My local garage told me to add fuel stabilizer (I did), then disconnect the fuel line (easy on the bikes that have an "off" on the petcock, not so easy on this one) and let the bike run until it stops, so that there is no fuel in the carburetor. I can't figure out how to stop the fuel flow, and the manual + online shop manual are no help, even under the topic of taking off the fuel tank. I assume this is a newbie problem that everyone knows about but me!

[Easy Rider]

My local garage told me to add fuel stabilizer (I did), then disconnect the fuel line (easy on the bikes that have an "off" on the petcock, not so easy on this one) and let the bike run until it stops, so that there is no fuel in the carburetor.

You need to find a different garage.....seriously. :cry:

With the bike NOT running, the fuel is OFF with the petcock lever in any position EXCEPT PRIme.
(It operates automatically with engine vacume.)
HOWEVER......
You got some bad advice. Absolutely no need to go to all that trouble. Put Stabil in the gas and then run it for a few minutes until the engine gets warm; that gets the stabilizer INTO the carb. If you want to go one step farther, there is a drain nipple and screw on the bottom of the carb. You can drain the carb. by loosening that screw........but even that is really not necessary.

Please don't disconnect any hoses! :)
You would actually have to disconnect the VACUME line, not the fuel line.

Oh, and.... WELCOME to our (not so) humble conference !! :cool:

[Water Warrior 2]

My local garage told me to add fuel stabilizer (I did), then disconnect the fuel line (easy on the bikes that have an "off" on the petcock, not so easy on this one) and let the bike run until it stops, so that there is no fuel in the carburetor.

You need to find a different garage.....seriously. :cry:

With the bike NOT running, the fuel is OFF with the petcock lever in any position EXCEPT PRIme.
(It operates automatically with engine vacume.)
HOWEVER......
You got some bad advice. Absolutely no need to go to all that trouble. Put Stabil in the gas and then run it for a few minutes until the engine gets warm; that gets the stabilizer INTO the carb. If you want to go one step farther, there is a drain nipple and screw on the bottom of the carb. You can drain the carb. by loosening that screw........but even that is really not necessary.

Please don't disconnect any hoses! :)
You would actually have to disconnect the VACUME line, not the fuel line.

Oh, and.... WELCOME to our (not so) humble conference !! :cool:

I was just going to say that. Disconnect the vacumn line and the carb will run dry. Other than the above ideas here is one more. Once in a while just rotate the wheels a quarter turn so you will not develope a flat spot from prolonged parking. This may or may not be an old wive's tale but it only takes a minute or two.

[Easy Rider]

Once in a while just rotate the wheels a quarter turn so you will not develope a flat spot from prolonged parking. This may or may not be an old wive's tale but it only takes a minute or two.

If the tires are properly inflated, it is..........but it actually only takes about 5 seconds, so what the heck !! Certainly won't do any harm.......unless you drop the bike on you !! :cool:

[primal]

If you're not going to run it any over the winter (which, BTW, the only time I've ever heard of people doing this is to keep the battery charged... not necessary with a battery tender), then after you change the oil, remove the spark plug and put a small amount of oil down into the cylinder and turn the rear wheel by hand or roll it a few feet to spread the oil around in the cylinder. Do NOT fire it up, else you'll burn away all the oil.

Also, consider blocking up the bike so you don't have to worry about rotating the tires.

[Easy Rider]

remove the spark plug and put a small amount of oil down into the cylinder and turn the rear wheel by hand or roll it a few feet to spread the oil around in the cylinder. Do NOT fire it up, else you'll burn away all the oil.


If you really think that is necessary, it is much easier to thumb the starter for a second with the plug OUT than it is to turn it over by pushing. :cool:

[primal]

I was wondering about that, but every time I've read about it they've said to turn it over by hand rather than using the starter. Maybe that's a remnant from back when bikes had kickstarters?

[Easy Rider]

Maybe that's a remnant from back when bikes had kickstarters?

Probably. As is the basic advice about doing it too!!! :roll:

[primal]

Maybe that's a remnant from back when bikes had kickstarters?

Probably. As is the basic advice about doing it too!!! :roll:

Oh well, it's not like it will actually hurt the engine, though. ;)

[Water Warrior 2]

Thumbing the starter will have the engine spin over too fast and blow most of the oil out the spark plug hole.

[primal]

What if you replaced the plug but didn't hook the cable back up?

Well, even then unless the tank was empty you'd be putting fuel through the engine, which I could see gumming up over the winter.

Yea, I'll probably just turn the wheel by hand whenever I winterize my next bike.

[Easy Rider]

What if you replaced the plug but didn't hook the cable back up?


Yes, a good alternative.
A much BETTER alternative, however, is not to f*** with it in the first place! :skull: