Oil Change Problem

[tyke]

I am still learning about this forum (as well as about my GZ) so please bear with me but let me know if I should have just put this problem into the other oil changing subject. My problem is that I can "see" how I am supposed to change the oil but the exhaust is so close to the drain plug I have been unable to get the socket with any type of handle or breaker bar in the space. The left-hand exhaust is directly below the drain plug and within an inch; not room enough to do anything. Do I have to move or remove the exhaust to get to it? You all seem to have lots of experience so maybe someone has run into this problem before and can help me out. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Betty

[music man]

I didn't have time to look and see if this exact subject was addressed but, you do not have to take off your exhaust, and the oil plug is a pain until you have done it a few times. But you need to download the service manual and it will show you more than I can tell you. The exhaust is not directly in the way, it is just a tight squeeze.



Go to this link and download the service manual


http://www.gz250bike.com/viewtopic.php?t=27

[5th_bike]

I use the extension bar that came with my Skandia metric impact wrench set.
It looks like this:

http://www.postimage.org/aV2tgULS.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV2tgULS)

Be careful to get the right size for your wrench set (usually, 3/8", or 1/2"), and the right length, mine is 3"

While you're at it, also get a torque wrench, to properly tighten your bolts. Sears has them for about $25, with a dial.

http://www.postimage.org/gx2NuG50.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gx2NuG50)

[tyke]

Thanks. I will look closer tomorrow. Think I may have been trying to remove the wrong thing. I can't really get a good look at the underside of this bike because I don't have a stand made yet so I go mostly by feel. I'm not really close to any stores where I'm located here in Colorado but will check at the Sears but it is really small.

By the way, what is that other bolt/plug just about 2-3 inches behind the oil drain plug?

Thanks again guys!

[5th_bike]

The oil drain plug is a big bolt in the middle of a round plate that is secured with 3 smaller bolts. It is called "cap, oil strainer" and provides access to the oil strainer.

Recently, someone had overtightened the oil drain plug and ruined the threads, so he had to get a new cap, not a whole new right half of engine. That was a relief !

You can also 'look' at the underside of the bike with a small mirror.

And, parts stores always have 'blow ups' of the parts of your motorcycle. You will find a drawing of the oil strainer cap and the drain plug on a blow up called "Oil Pump".
Example: go to mrcycles.com click "Suzuki Motorcycle Parts" click "2005 Suzuki Motorcycle Parts" click "2005 GZ250" select "Oil Pump" from the drop down menu, and there it is (scroll down to the bottom of the drawing).

[jonathan180iq]

You are aware, of course, of this post showing how to change your oil and what tools are needed.

http://www.gz250bike.com/viewtopic.php?t=566

Also, make sure you are using METRIC wrenches.

Here is a photo of the bolt that you need to remove:

http://www.postimage.org/aV2wAhqJ.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV2wAhqJ)

[tyke]

Yes I am aware of the "how-to" and it is stated very clearly in my owners manual. What I had not done was use the mirror (can't believe I didn't remember that) so I would have realized I was trying to remove the wrong plug since there are two under there of the same size. I don't know what that back one goes to but I did finally break it loose but have tightened back up. And yes I am using metric wrenches. Will probably complete the job tomorrow after I get the correct oil. I am still curious what that other plug/bolt is all about.

Thanks again to all of you for your help.

[primal]

Recently, someone had overtightened the oil drain plug and ruined the threads, so he had to get a new cap, not a whole new right half of engine. That was a relief !

That was me! And, as much as I hate Suzuki for using aluminum, I'm VERY glad they designed the drain that way. It was much easier to replace the entire cap than have a mechanic rethread the drain hole.

Moral of the story: Don't torque your oil drain plug! Tighten it just so its snug and you'll be good to go. You might also want to run down to the local auto parts store and get a crush washer to replace the one there (if your oil drain plug is like mine, you probably won't even realize there's a washer there unless you actually take notice).

[Mad Dog]

How newbie is this? How do I check the oil level (2004 with no manual), and I'm confused about the positions of the fuel cock. When the long side is down, that is closed? When the LONG side points to RES it is on reserve? I know what ON means, but I thought the pointer end was opposite the long side? Was I wrong? And what does PRI stand for at the bottom position?

[RichInFla]

How newbie is this? How do I check the oil level (2004 with no manual), and I'm confused about the positions of the fuel cock. When the long side is down, that is closed? When the LONG side points to RES it is on reserve? I know what ON means, but I thought the pointer end was opposite the long side? Was I wrong? And what does PRI stand for at the bottom position?

You can download the manual here on the forum, but from what my manual says, start it for a couple if minutes, then turn it off. There's a little window on the right side (when sitting on it). Make the bike verticle, then check the window, I think it has "L" and "F" (low and full), should be in between. Yes, if the long side of the fuel cock points to RES, it's on reserve, as I noticed the previous owner had it on. Last, I think PRI stands for PRIME, for cold starts. Those positions are also posted on this forum !!

As a newbie, I will be corrected, but this is a nice test to see if I am paying attention to the forum and the manual !! :roll:

[Easy Rider]

As a newbie, I will be corrected, but this is a nice test to see if I am paying attention to the forum and the manual !! :roll:

Pretty good, rookie!

PRIme is intended to be used only when the carbs are empty of gas......like after a long storage OR when some newbie leaves it on RES and runs completely out. :biggrin:

[Mad Dog]

Thank you, Rich and Easy. I'll be sure to download the manual. But if I can venture one more (stupid?) question...
Is there something funky I should know about getting the turn signals to work all the time. Today I couldn't get them to work all the way home, but as soon as I got off at home and tested one last time, of course they worked. I know there's a little push action to pop it off when it's on. Any suggestions.

When I'm not riding the bike, I'm usually carting 5 kids back and forth to their life events.

[Sarris]

Mine stick occasionally and are hard to make operational, so I spray a little WD-40 into the switch and work it a few times. It'll last a few months then need to be done again.

:)

[jonathan180iq]

I was having the same problem with my signals. Reach back there and scientifically "jiggle" the wires a bit. I went for a month or so with no turn signals until I was tightneing up some ground bolts and they magically came back on.

Also, Sarris' idea of WD-40 works well. They can get stuck occasionally. They're a cheap little bit and they will malfunction. It's normal.

Make sure you learn how to manually signal your actions, with you arm, for those times that they don't work.

[Sarris]

Geez, Jon, changing avatars again?? You change avatars more than some Harley riders change underwear. I wouldn't know anything about that though!

I was just gettin' used to the old Snoopster. :cry:

[Easy Rider]

Mine stick occasionally and are hard to make operational, so I spray a little WD-40 into the switch and work it a few times. It'll last a few months then need to be done again.

:)

If you would clean it out with something actually MADE for electrical contacts (or alcohol), maybe they would work for more than a few months ?? :biggrin:

Like others have said, loose wire connectors or dirty switch. After that, bad flasher relay (or IT could be loose in the socket too).

[Sarris]

If you would clean it out with something actually MADE for electrical contacts (or alcohol), maybe they would work for more than a few months ??
I'm too damn lazy to take it apart, properly clean it, and grease w/ dielectric grease. WD-40 works pretty well, if only for a couple of months. It's just a cheap switch. Maybe we could find a higher quality substitue from another Suzuki model? Hm......
:)

[Easy Rider]

WD-40 works pretty well, if only for a couple of months.

Very true. Let's try this: It would work even better (probably) if you would use some compressed air (it even comes in a can) to blow out the excess and leave less of the gooey "protectant" after it dries.